Recently, so recently that the car is still on stands, it was painted...

After installing everything, so it is a car again, I find I have old leaks.

2 I have not figured out how to stop... The wiper on the right side seems to be leaking between the shaft, and the housing.... Water appears at the linkage arm under the dash when a hose is washed over the hood.....

The 2nd is the rear window in a 245 wagon which leaks from UNDER the window seal, and not over it.

This must mean that water gets under this seal on the outside and then somehow goes up over a steel ridge, and then back down and out into the rear areas of the car..

If water came from under the glass, it would have to travel over the top of the seal.... So how do I stop these leaks?

I had other leaks... After the hard rain I discovered the winter floor mat on the ft left was holding a fair amount of water.. After hosing and seeing it leak onto the matt, I tore apart the fuse panel, and with help watered the car again, while watching....

I discovered water coming in thru the bottom top door hindge bolt!!! There are 3 bolts per hindge, so one by one I would remove them a bit later...... First I gave these some time to dry, and then with ATF in a oil can (pump type) I oiled the top[ of the hindges from the outside... At I pulled the bolts these too we oiled at this point.... I painted each one with roofing cement mixed with ATF, and reinstalled them.. Then used that same mix to paint the area with a brush.

Eact bolt was rusted between the head and the threaded portion in use.... SO you folks might want to check these bolts..

All 4 side doors ended up leaking... Only my drivers doors has ever been replaced so far as I am able to tell.... It seems a "Well" is left by the factory, and this area can leak small amounts of water..

Another place seldom seen is the area in a wagon above the spare tire well...

I totally missed this area, and just today discovered paint problems there.

I can not access the entire area, but of what i can a wire brushing, and rust converter was applied. In a day or 2 I will shoot rustoleum up in there, and spray ATF with a slight bit of tar as best I can in there as well...

Another leak was found at the left rear quater panel under the bumper. It seems a seam from the factory can leak from higher up and thwe water run between panels, and into the spare well.... This one had me sayin' Huh? But soon after mopping up, and watering low to high the leak was found from the outside and stopped with regular undercoat... "3-M"

So I hope this helps someone, and I get 2 answers.. I have no desire to tear out the rear glass, or the wiper linkage in full....

A sneak fix is what I am after... Maybe for the wipers something like spark plug boots over the top that move with the wipers, or a valve stem seal????

The rear window gasket really has me stumped.. Mac

My goal is to stop ALL Water from getting in my car...

I know this is an old post, but wanted to add what I believe to be a good tool in fixing these water problems. SUGRU is an excellent semi hardening VERY easy to mold & use silicone product that can be used to fix any window rubber problem, including ripped up old tattered sunbaked door rubbers (like the ones on my cally wagon). I also used it to close & seal up the sunbaked shrinked corner rubber of my rear wagon windows. You will LOVE this product for many more uses too! see ebay, or youtube for more info

As for your wiper leak, have you recently changed the motor? There is a rubber gromet kind of thing that seals around the shaft of your wiper motor where it goes throught the firewall. Actually, it also goes through the far right part of your air intake area in front of your windshield. When water gets in that area, it will leak into the car if the gromet is missized or maybe cracked. The size of these things changed in later cars, so if you have changed your motor, the shaft may be too small which would mean you may need a new gromet, too. Of course, if you have not chaged your motor, it could still be that seal leaking around the shaft. I must say the positioning of this thing was not one of Volvos finest feats of engineering, as they are leak prone.

It appears to me that water is running right next to the pivot that turns the arc of the wiper itself... I am guessing that there is a brass bearing there, and then the arcing shaft... Arc ing as in rotate back and forth... And no the motor is as it has been since as long as I have had this car, and that is from about 98'. Mac

Mac,
I wonder if you're missing the bearing's water seal. The best one I have looks like this, but I'd guess it still keeps water from following the shaft down.

Yup! I sure am.... Mine is missing the top that is nearly missing on that one!!!!! Ok So now I can make a plan, part, and or find something that works....

Thanks!!! Mac

A squint at my fiche identifies this as a "cover, p/n 1304975", which according to my 1982 pricing reference retailed for $.29, where it calls it a "seal". The material it is made from feels like the slick stuff the heating ducts are made from.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

"The 2nd is the rear window in a 245 wagon which leaks from UNDER the window seal, and not over it. "

I'm not sure if I understand your problem, but how about some clear caulking around and over the rubber to seal any entry points? Or maybe paint?
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans

After investigating more, it seems water is getting in higher than the bottom seal area, and thence running down and around the steel window frame. Of corse the water traveles unseen with in the seal, to pour in over the tailgate.

I have to find the exact entery point to stop this leak....

I wonder just what kind of a job it is to remover the glass and the seal for a good cleaning and re-seal? Mac

Mac, ihave the same problem. I took out the windows cleaned the gasket perfect ,and had them professionally reinstalled and they still leaked. I cut little drains like the 89 on ,did not work, i urethane sealed the gasket to glass on the outside and that worked for 2 years and started to leak again.The urethane pulled free in one long piece rather easily. I will redo it and purchase a set of oars.

"I wonder just what kind of a job it is to remover the glass and the seal for a good cleaning and re-seal? "
I've visited your site. You're definitely the adventurous type who likes a challenge. I guess you'll let us know how it goes.

I'd just go all the way around the seal on the outside with paint or caulk. The paint/caulk would run into the cracks and seal. That is, if the window seal area is the source of the prob.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans

My goal... Let no nut go unturned, and stop all water from getting in....

Yup, I get into some aweful messes.... LOL Mac