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Just got done servicing the Oil Breather Box (Oil separator) and EGR valve on my 1995 940 (90K miles). Procedures for Breather Box R&R in the FAQ do not cover the specifics of cars with EGR so I posted last week asking for some tips. Thanks again to those who responded. The bottom line from those responses was - yes you do have to remove the EGR valve to get at the oil breather box on this car. The good new is, it really is not too difficult a job.
I wrote up the following procedure/notes based on what I learned today for the benefit of anyone else who needs to do this. Same basic procedure will probably work for non-EGR, cars with some slight adaptations.
When I finally got the breather box off, I found that the o-ring was totally shot, so I would recommend doing this as part of your preventative maintenance routine along with EGR, IAC Solenoid and Throttle Body cleaning at 50k mile intervals.
Oil Breather Box (A.K.A. Oil separator) R&R Procedure, 940 NA With EGR.
A few of general points: Access is a little tight, so a set of 1/4 inch drive metric sockets/handles and a selection of extensions is going to be a big help. If you don’t 1/4 inch drive tools, you should be able to get by with a few combination wrenches and some 3/8 or 1/2 inch drive sockets. If you have a portable shop light, hang it in the back of the engine compartment behind the inlet manifold. A little illumination makes this a lot easier. The removal and re-installation should take about 2 hours or so in total, plus whatever time you may take cleaning the breather box, EGR, etc. Overall this is not a very difficult procedure, and with a little patience most weekend mechanics should be able to get through it without too much cursing. I would also recommend that anyone who hasn’t done so yet should take the time to read the extensive and excellent write-up on Crankcase Ventilation in the FAQ. There are also photos of the breather box etc. at the following link in FAQ;
http://www.mikeponte.com/volvo/oiltrap.htm
BREATHER BOX REMOVAL
1- Disconnect Idle Air Control Solenoid (IAC) hose and PCV breather hose from main air intake hose immediately upstream of throttle body. IAC hose is the one on the left and breather hose on the right relative to the throttle body. OEM hose clamps have a T25 torx head shrew (you can use the screwdriver from the Volvo toolkit).
2- Loosen the hose clamps that hold the air intake hose at the Air Mass Meter (next to air cleaner box) and at the throttle body. Clamps have a 7mm hex head screw that also has a screwdriver slot. Pull the hose off the AMM and the throttle body and put to one side.
3- Remove the flame trap/nipple and the short hose below the flametrap that connects to the top of the breather box. Located between the 3rd and 4th legs of the inlet manifold.
4- Disconnect the IAC electrical connector (push on the spring clip on the back side of the connector and pull the connectors apart).
5- Remove two 10mm hex bolts attaching the IAC to its bracket underneath the inlet manifold. Disconnect the IAC outlet hose where it connects to the manifold header. The IAC hose is the one located directly below the flame trap vacuum hose. Another 7mm hex-head screw on the clamp. Pull the hose off the nipple.
6- Remove the IAC, with the hoses still attached, threading the discharge hose down the back of the manifold. See FAQ for procedure to clean the IAC.
7- The EGR valve is now “exposed”, behind and to the right of where the IAC was. It is connected to the inlet manifold via a steel tube that connects to the side of the valve. There is another steel tube connected to the end of the valve, that runs around the back of the block, to the exhaust manifold.
8 -Refer to FAQ for procedure to remove and clean the EGR valve. I have also added some additional notes of my own (below) on EGR valve.
9- With the EGR removed, the breather box is very easy to get at. The EGR valve bracket is on top of the base of the breather box and must come off first. Remove the two 12mm hex bolts that pass through the EGR bracket and also attach the breather box to the block. These can be removed with a box wrench or a socket and there is now plenty of space under the manifold to get at them directly. Lift the EGR bracket away and set to one side.
10- There is another bracket under the EGR bracket. This one supports a wiring harness clip in front of the block at this location. Remove two 10mm hex bolts attaching the bracket to the wiring clip. One is front and center relative to the breather box, the other is to the right of the breather box.
11- Pry the bracket away from the wiring clip and it will pop off.
12- Lift the breather box up away from the block. Rotate it forward slightly when it raised ½ inch or so, so that it clears the heater hose (this is connected to the block slightly above the breather box) and it will come free and can be maneuvered out easily.
BREATHER BOX CONDITION (AT 90K MILES)& CLEANING
O-ring was baked hard as a rock and had set in an oval cross section. Removed it and bent it and it snapped in two! This o-ring had clearly stopped sealing effectively some considerable time ago. This allows oil to seep out onto the block, and also allows air to leak in when the engine is running (making it hard to maintain the proper suction inside the crankcase).
There was no significant build up of “crud” inside the breather box. Cleaned it out by spraying throttle-body cleaner into the openings (check a small spot on the outside first to make sure it will not eat the plastic). Then shook the excess out and let it dry for 10 minutes before replacing. Carefully clean the bottom surface and o-ring groove with rag and cleaner. Install new O-ring (34mm x 3 mm). Smear some general purpose grease on the o-ring to hold it in place while re-installing the box.
BREATHER BOX REPLACEMENT
Before beginning to re-install parts, clean up the exposed surface on the block where the breather box sits. This area is usually something of a dirt trap. Be careful not to knock any crud into the openings into the crankcase. Also, while you are doing this, take care not to disturb the oil return hose (front opening). Carefully wipe around the larger opening, and then (even more carefully) around the smaller opening that has the oil return hose inside it. Then spray a little throttle-body cleaner onto a clean rag and wipe the surfaces again. This is the sealing surface for the breather box o-ring, so it is important not to leave any dirt.
Other than that, the rest of the re-installation process is (as they say) a reverse of the removal process. Apply a little dielectric grease to the contacts of the IAC solenoid and EGR before re-connecting them.
Notes
EGR REMOVAL & CLEANING
Refer also to FAQ section on EGR Valve.
EGR VALVE REMOVAL: I found it took a good two-handed pull to break the 22mm acorn nuts free (the nuts that attach the pipes to the valve). Your only option here is to use a 22mm open-ended wrench (unless you happen to have such a thing as a 22mm crows-foot). Be real careful not to have the wrench slip and round off the nut. The valve gets hot in operation, so the nuts tend to seize to the valve fittings and take some persuasion to break loose. I sprayed PBlaster penetrating oil on the fittings and let it sit for 20 minutes before trying. This is a classic “knuckle-buster” situation, so it is a good idea to put on a pair of gloves. Access is limited with a big wrench like this one, but once the nuts are started you will be able to turn them 1/6-turn at a time till they are off. Once the nuts were off, I had to tap the inlet pipe with a hammer to get it loose from the port on the end of the valve. The compression fitting on the end of the pipe was kind of wedged in the port on the valve and did notwant to come off at first. I could not get the outlet pipe off of the side of the valve, so I took the valve off with this pipe still connected (disconnect the other end of the pipe from the intake manifold first). The valve is held on a bracket with a 25mm nut. I managed to get this off with a 1 inch AF open-ended wrench. Again, it took some force to break it free, and access is limited so it was 1/6 or 1/4 turn at a time to get the nut off. I had a difficult time getting the vacuum hose off the valve. the rubber boot at the end of the hose was in very poor conditon (rubber was breaking down and had taken on a tacky/gummy consistency) and was stuck to the vacuum nipple on the valve. I assume this is due to the high temps that this valve sees. I will be looking for a replacement as I do not think it is going to last much longer.
EGR VALVE VACUUM CHECK/CLEANING: FAQ says to use a vacuum pump on the bench. I don’t have one, so I improvised: Insert an allen wrench or small screwdriver or other suitable “probe” into the inlet port (threaded opening on the end of the valve) until it contacts the valve seat. Keep one hand on this probe while maintaining a small force to keep it in contact with the seat. Place vacuum nipple in mouth and suck! You will feel the valve seat opening. The valve should hold open without any additional suction. If the valve fails to open, or if the diaphragm leaks when you do this, then the valve may need to be replaced. If you don’t want to put engine parts in your mouth, you can make a more hygienic mouthpiece from a couple of inches of scrap vacuum hose. I cleaned the valve as per the FAQ, except I was not able to hold the valve open while spraying cleaner into it. Very little carbon/dirt in the valve. Noticeable build up of carbon on end of the EGR discharge pipe, where it connects to the intake manifold. Cleaned this up with a stiff wire and several squirts of throttle-body cleaner
EGR VALVE REPLACEMENT
I put a little anti-seize on the threads before replacement (don’t get any inside the ports though). I am hoping this will make it easier to get the nuts off next time. Place the valve in its bracket. Hand tighten clamping nut that holds it to the bracket. Start the threads on the two acorn nuts. Attach the outlet pipe to the intake manifold and tighten the nuts there all the way. Tighten the bracket clamping nut all the way. Tighten the two acorn nuts all the way. Put a spot of silicone grease on the vacuum nipple and replace the vacuum tube (again, I am hoping this will stop the rubber from “gluing” itself to the nipple. Reconnect the temp sensor electrical connector.
Hope some of you find this helpful if you are getting ready to do any of this. Probably put a few folks to sleep.........
Good Luck,
Kev
--
Current: '95 945, 95k miles; '90 BMW 325i, 90k miles. Former Volvos, gone but not forgotten '85 245, 250k miles; '91 744T, 150k miles
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I am following up from the excellent post by Turbine1 on removing the breather box/ EGR from many years ago. I’ve got some oil leaks and so I wanted to check / replace the breather box tubing and clean or replace the breather box. However, I have had a lot of trouble getting the breather box out. All screws to the breather box have been removed and the box is loose but I can’t get the EGR out to make room to remove and clean the breather box.
I have completely loosened the 2 - 22mm tube bolts on either side of the EGR which hold the EGR in place. However, I cannot separate the EGR from the piping. I was able to remove one side of the piping tube (to the inlet manifold) at the manifold. The other piping tube goes to the exhaust manifold and I cannot get that manifold bolt loose.
Any advice would be appreciated.
1994 Volvo 940, NA
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The vapor (PCV, EVAP) line between the top of the oil breather box and all connection from the PCV breather box to the intake manifold port on (1994, model, miles, nation state as emissions controls vary) may be embrittled and require some force or cutting to remove the piping.
Yours is a 1994, so you have a year specific PCV piping. Get the Volvo vapor vacuum lines as after market at least years ago proved sort of poor quality.
You say you have EGR? How old is the vacuum controlled EGR valve. These fail withing a decade from the factory, yet the failure is very slow. If not in US CA or NY states, or some emission control inspection nation state, I'd remove EGR. There exists a machine bolt with washer at the manifold end and you can get an EGR blocking plate. The EZK116 ignition box operates EGR with signal data transceived with the fuel injection box.
If you have PULSAIR, the vacuum controlled systems to passively inject air into the exhaust manifold, and with PULSAIR you have EGR. You can remove this, yet the exhaust manifold air injection holes are not easy to deal with. Do not use a coin to block the holes. Maybe replace the manifold.
Or restore EGR, PULSAIR, ensure a sealed vacuum control and air intake induction and check the OBD for fault codes recurringly. Like monthly.
Manifold removal on your 1994 i will be a bother. The nbut and studs are rusted. You have to involve yourself with treating rusted hardware to treat it and free it without breaking an exhaust stud in the cylinder head. If not already, at 29 years, your intake and exhaust manifold port gasket may need replacement.
Though EGR is not well treated, see the FAQ at the top of the page and read up on RWD Volvo foibles and how to treat them.
Questions?
Hope that helps.
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[This is an old 2003 thread. Your new post fits the thread topic, so it's quite appropriate here.]
Been there with the oil box. Those EGR connections can get pretty frozen. I got exactly to your stage, doing as much as I could, working around that miserable pipe fitting off the back of the EGR going to the right. That's the EGR pipe connection from the exhaust manifold and of course the hottest, so perhaps no surprise it's the worst.
Disconnecting the EGR pipe at the intake manifold and leaving it attached to the EGR was a good move, and I did just that. Far easier than trying to get it off the EGR and you'll be able to move the EGR out of the way with it attached.
As a last option if you can't bust the EGR fitting open, you could do similar and disconnect the EGR pipe way around at the exhaust. The fitting there is almost as bad and it is a bit difficult to get at, but may end up being the only way if you fail to get the pipe loose at the EGR, so keep that option in mind.
One word of caution before carrying on here. You need to be a bit careful with that EGR pipe off the exhaust. It can become weak from all the heat and corrode in the area of the first turn where it starts to go behind the block. This hasn't happened to me, but I was told exhaust leaks have been known to develop there and the pipe can break trying to get it off for exhaust work. Be sure to check for leaks there and around the back when you're done. That EGR pipe is NLA in the Volvo parts chain. Getting one off a wreck is of course not going to be easy. If it should break or leak, I was told the simplest fix is to weld in a section of pipe, stainless if you've got it (good idea, thanks Peter). Having said all that, if you've got the EGR loose off the block, be careful not to move the EGR during wrestling manoeuvres or you risk breaking the pipe at the weak section, making for a leak you weren't expecting. So best to keep the EGR mounted in place during wrestling at the fitting, which most people would do anyway as having it in place helps as a counterhold. If you need to move it out for wrenches then move it out, just be careful. Now back to that miserable main fitting.
There are two sides to the EGR fitting, the flare nut end and the EGR end. You only need to bust one loose. Flare nuts are often more difficult, but it's really your only choice here, especially with the down pipe in place. A flare wrench would be best at that fitting, but flare wrenches of that size may be difficult to find.
Start by soaking the threads thoroughly with the best penetrating oil you can get. Forget about using WD-40 (original oil), almost any penetrating oil is better. Give it a good chnace to saok in. Consider following with heat if you've got it, a trigger MAPP torch works well. Repeat a few times leaving it to soak in between. An overnight soak is a good idea. The fitting will now be a lot less frozen and in many situations penetrating oil is critical for success.
Now to the wrenches. On a frozen fitting like that you generally need to use two wrenches, one as a counter hold. This is the next key to success after penetratinhg oil. Have the wrench handles spread slightly apart and squeeze them together with all your might to bust the joint loose. Many are surprised how well this works and it's all down hill from there.
Those are large nuts and you will need large wrenches. I forget the nut sizes, but one is different from the other, and one size may be a little less common in terms of what's available for wrenches. My accumulated set of large wrenches had everything but that one size, so I had to add to my collection. In your head, use the price of a shop job to pay for tools. With large nuts, there are often large SAE wrenches that are close and not loose enough to round the faces, so keep that idea in mind when shopping. My large wrenches are all metric except for one SAE, which may be the wrench I ended up buying for this job because of suitable handle length.
Larger wrenches have longer handles, which is needed for leverage, but many wrenches can be a bit long for work in this area. Clearance for wrenches was actually my only problem. Stubby large wrenches are made, but difficult to find. If you're going out to buy a large wrench (they're sold individually), measure for clearance in that area first. Borrowing large wrenches is a good option, just be prepared with a bribe. A large crowfoot on a breaker would seem ideal here, but few will have such a tool. I have a BMF brand large crescent wrench that had a shorter handle than my wrenches. As I recall that was one of the tools used for success. A large plumbing wrench is another option, and I did try one at the beginning, but know how to use it and when to stop trying, otherwise parts are easily damaged and will only make the job worse. A couple of flat metal strips taped inside the rough jaws is worth thinking about.
One last thought, when you're done, don't forget to reconnect the EGR temperature wire. I did that and after a few miles my Check Engine came on, so I pulled off the highway. One quick call to my wife to lookup the OBD code in my manuals and I soon knew what I'd forgotten.
In my mind now, your EGR is now loose and you've had the oil box out before even being finished reading here.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now
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Interesting topic. I'm pretty good in this area so I thought I'd add something. I don't see any reference to removing the intake manifold. I have only done the breather in conjunction with the intake manifold gasket, a good throttle body cleaning and perhaps the heater hoses and valve. It makes the inevitable struggle with the EGR easier. I kind of remember doing a breather once without completely removing the EGR
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89 240 wagon, 94 940, 300K, 94 940, 141K
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Fantastic Kevin!! I'll be doing the same on my '91 940 Turbo with EGR. I'll have a buddy's digital camera, so I'll document the procedure you detail with pics...
Chris
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Thanks Chris. Unfortunately I seem to be the only remaining person in the world without a digital camera otherwise I would have taken some.
--
Current: '95 945, 95k miles; '90 BMW 325i, 90k miles. Former Volvos, gone but not forgotten '85 245, 250k miles; '91 744T, 150k miles
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Actually, you and I are the last people, I'm sure of it. Can't bring myself to buy -- the only ones worth buying IMHO are in the $300 US and up range...
Can't swallow that yet!
...but, isn't this what friends are for? ;-)
Chris
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Was the metal pipe to the inlet manifold all clogged up ? I’m running a 2b7 carb on a b230k engine heron head from the egr valve.steve uk
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posted by
someone claiming to be ringlee
on
Sun Sep 28 16:07 CST 2003 [ RELATED]
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Gracias: to the FAQ.
Steve
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Da nada. Glad to be able to contribute a little back to the board
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Current: '95 945, 95k miles; '90 BMW 325i, 90k miles. Former Volvos, gone but not forgotten '85 245, 250k miles; '91 744T, 150k miles
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