|
What a wonderful board this is!
We just purchased a 1992 960. Our first Volvo so what may seem simple and routine to all you guys, may be something we have no idea about. We have no service information but a look at the oil, as it came into the dealership, makes us think at least that got changed. A clean OEM air filter also was found.
The car was purchased at out local Chevy dealer and the service guy knowing us, knew my wife was looking for an older, in good shape, Volvo wagon to replace her dying Grand Wagoneer(woody). The vehicle handles beautifully, shifts smooth and solid, and starts and runs with so much power! Really impressed me.
On to my questions(and thanks in advance for putting up with them if they sound stupid).
1. We have a very small oil leak at the pan somewhere, is this a normal thing for a model this old? Really not bad, maybe a tablespoon every 2 or 3 days.
2. It has just turned 130,000. I see the sticker on the timing belt housing reading 90,000(some sort of exchange program??) that it was replaced. Something there I should know?
3. Since the car seems to have a warning light for EVERYTHING! I find the service light on and did a oil, filter change with Castrol 10w30 Syntech and a Wix filter. Did I need to do something else? I like to do the routine stuff myself(air, oil, transmission rebuild....lol).
Any comments or suggestions welcome. We hope to keep her for a long time!!!
Thanks Again!!!!!
Lane & Jill
Our Weather Website
http://home.sc.rr.com/reelhouse
|
|
-
|
I can speak from experience about a 92 960. It is imperative that the timing belt be changed ASAP. No delay or a broken timing belt will trash the valves. At this time I would consider changing the idler pulley as well.
One thing I didn't see on previous posts is the radiator. The plastic ends degrade and start leaking or break. I would change the radiator unless you have proof the radiator has been changed. Lost of coolant is a diaster in this engine.
If you are an experienced person working on cars then get some of the Volvo Tech manuals for this model. Fuel & ignition, electrical at a miminum. Otherwise be prepared to spend some dollars(lots) when work is required and who every does the work better know what they're doing or you will be spending more money redoing the work.
Use the best oil you can MOBIL 1 or equivalent. This is very important for the valves as the exhaust can get carboned up and burn.
The power paks (coil over the spark plugs) are another source of problems. Ususally you will find the engine not idling smoothly with a single cylinder missing. Connections on the power paks are another area where the connectors degrade. The engine should idle with absolutely no movement. Any engine movement at idle indicates something not right.
The ECC (Electric Climate Control)can be another source of headaches. The vacuum pods(controls the movement of the actuators the operate the flaps to move the air from dash to floor etc.) are expensive to replace.
The transmission I found to be trouble free, just make sure the color of the ATF is a bright red. Syntethic can also be used here to help the transmission life. I believe this is the same transmission as installed in the Lexus.
With this many miles take a good look at the front end especially the cone bushings. If these haven't been replaced they should be. These are relatively easy to change. Consider Poly bushings as a replacement.
Since you have a wagon you will avoid any potential problems with the IRS that the sedan has. Im't not sure if the wagon has NIMOVAT shocks (High pressure shock self leveling)on the back. Check the FAQ area but the 92's have problems not seen on the later models.
|
|
-
|
Ufortunately some of the information related earlier is wrong, despite good intentions. The timing interval for this car is indeed 30K, and should not be extended. You are flirting with disaster. The engine is an interference-type that will self-destruct upon snapping a timing belt.
I think it's unlikely that the service was not performed at 40K extending the interval, but that can be easily confirmed. It is still a short interval and critical that it be changed now, assuming it was changed at 90K. Apparently, the belt has not been changed on interval in the past, otherwise the next change would have been 70K or 100K
--
John Shatzer, '97 V90 @ 98K
|
|
-
|
Check the condition of ALL the coolant hoses as well as the radiator. Overheating is very bad for these engines.
Flush the transmission fluid as well. Use only synthetic engine oil and Volvo/Mann filters.
Visit the advertisers on this board.
--
Warren Bain - '99 V70GLT G-Valve > 80K mi, '96 965 >120Kmi, near Manassas Va.. Check the 700/900 FAQ via the 'features' pull down menu.
|
|
-
|
The timing belt change interval for your car maybe 30,000 miles. I say maybe because when the 960 first appeared the interval was 20,000 miles, then they came out with a new exhaust gear for the cam that extended to the 30,000 mile interval. Which should have been changed under warranty by the original owner. So the first thing you need to do is get that belt changed, like the other post says, it is an interference engine and the failure of the timing belt is a disaster. You might look at the water pump at that time too, it is driven by the timing belt. If for anything just for the peace of mind.
Yes, I have found this board very useful and enlightening. Look into the FAQ there is a mountain of info there.
Good luck and enjoy your new ride.
DanR 94 964 233,000 miles
--
DanR
|
|
-
|
Well, first off, if your timing belt now has 40,000 on it, might be a good preventative maintenance thing to change it now. Usually every 50,000 is a good time to change belts, but yours being a 6 cyl (an interference motor) it would be wise to change it sooner. If the belt were to break, you can add several bent valves and many $100's if not $1000 to the bill. I think a 6 cyl belt is around $25-30.
The "service" light is a factory preset thing that comes on every 5,000 miles. Not a big deal, just a reminder (the "check engine" light is a whole different subject). There is a rubber grommet to the lower left of the speedometer - remove it and with a small thin pen or pencil, or whatever - push the reset button that's behind that grommet. The service light will go out (for another 5k miles :)
Hope this is of any help :)
|
|
-
|
1. Change the timing and drive belt asap!
2. Change all fluids. Synthetic for the motor and trans. The trans does need servicing.
3. You could have cam or crank seals leaking down to the oil pan.
4. Change all coolant hoses. Two for the rad, two for the oil cooler, 2 or 3 for the heater. Change the thermostat.
5. The water pump can wait if it is tight. You have short belt intervals, so you'll be in again shortly to do the pump if need be.
6. Drive belt should be good for 40,000. Takes a maybe a whole minute to change.
7. When you do the front brake, don't use aftermarket pads which require stick on shims which will fail. Use oem pads for the front and be happy.
8. Clean all the ground wires you can find in the engine bay.
9. Remove the flame trap. White plastic piece with holes.
Good luck.
--
92 244 lowered, Bilsteins, IPD sways, Unitek cam/header, TSW Revo 18x8's - 94 965 Niiice MONEY PIT! - 76 Datsun 280Z lowered, modified head, cam, headers, intake
|
|
|
|
|