Volvo RWD 200 Forum

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decision on whether or not to buy an '88 240 200

I am in the market for a used volvo , I have never owned one. The one I
looked at was an '88 242. The car had only 36,000 miles and the engine was spotless. The only problem was when the headlights were turned on ,the turn signal indicators came on and stayed lit, the engine temperature gauge went into the red,and the fuel gauge moved about a half an inch. Everything else seemed to work okay. I don't know if this is a major problem or if it is something that can easily be repaired. Any advice would be apreciated. Thanks.








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decision on whether or not to buy an '88 240 200

Regarding your problem... I recently had some of the same issues on an 86 I bought my daughter. Thanks to rockwellmusic I took his advice and did a bypass on the temp/comp board (IDP part) and it solved all the eratic electrical issues. take a look at the response via the link

http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=699389








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decision on whether or not to buy an '88 240 200

My favorite is the '88 still the simple LH 2.2 injection, no rotting wiring, carry a spare fuel and OD relay and you will never be stuck without plenty of warning. Sadly as others have said, the '88 did not come as a 242, does it have the TV tube headlights or 4 sealed beams. Also low mileage is not always good, rubber gets old from sitting and oil develops acids in it if not changed every 6 months or so. In fact I think you should let me look at this car before you buy it, just let me make a quick stop at my bank. . . .
Dave Shannon
Spring Valley, California (San Diego area)
'84-245 200K+
'84-245T 190K+
'88-240 180K+
www.volvo2.homestead.com (Opens new window)








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decision on whether or not to buy an '88 240 200

I bought an 88 245 a couple months ago with 155K, and it runs beautifully. To date, though, I replaced heater core (and fan motor as long as I was in there), Water pump (appeared to be the original, and I did the timing belt and idler at the same time. I had electrical gremilns that began turning on the windshield wipers whenever I turned on the headlights...solved by cleaning a couple of ground screws. I love the car, and really don't mind doing these repairs, which probalby will not re-appear for years. My advice is jump on that low mileage example (but I'm skeptical that the odometer is correct), but only if you are capable of doing some analysis wrenching, and, in the case of a heater core replacement, an exploratory adventure...if you take your vehicles in to a garage for everything, go buy a Honda or Toyota....I'd offer the same advice to a new Ferrari or Jaguar buyer. YOU ARE NOT ALONE...this forum is extremely helpful...a support group as it were.








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decision on whether or not to buy an '88 240 200

I own a 1988 240 GL. That's the way it is badged. In the numbering system used up to 1983 the car would be a 244. 2 for 200 series. 4 for 4 cylinders (there have been 6's) and 4 for the number of doors. Thus a 245 would be a station wagon.

Brickboarders often use the 3-digit system regardless of the actual badging on the car because it is a well-known system. My car is a 240 4-door sedan, or a 244.

The 242, (200 series, 4 cylinder, 2 doors) was last built as a 1984 model year. The VIN last 6 digits for the 1984 year began with 237370. If the car you are looking at is indeed a 2-door, I don't see how it can be a 1988 model.

Many parts have a date indicator. A 1988 should have - on original parts - dates of either 1987 or 1988. A newer number indicates a replaced part.

Look at all the glass for a year. Look at the colored lenses on the tail lights for a circular mark. In the center of it is a 2-digit year number. the outer ring shows the month. Again, the year should be 87 or 88.

The VIN has information coded in it. There are no separations. though I wll show some to allow explanations. There are 17 digits total.

YV1AX88 YV1=Mfg code, A=240 series, X=3 point safety belts, 88=B230F engine

4 for 4 doors

X is a check digit

H is for actual year of manufacture, where H=1987, J=1988

1 = Mfg plant. 0=Kalmar/Sweden, 1=Torslanda/Sweden, 3=Volvo Europe, 4=Canada

The next 6 digits are the serial number chassis number.

1986 models start at:
4 doors: 145710
5 doors: 660780

1987 models start at:
4 doors: 215300
5 doors: 718700

1988 models start at :
4 doors: 278400
5 doors: 766600

So for yor Volvo to be a 1988 4-door sedan made in Sweded the VIN should be

YV1AX884XJ1278400 with few variations for your specific car.

How good is the 1988 car? I have found it to be very good. I bought mine with 95000 miles. The odometer quit at 110000 miles (CHECK the one you are looking at, this is a very common failure) and I estimate the car to have 160,000 miles now.

The PO had all the service work done at a dealer, and I got all the records. You can ask a dealer service department to input the VIN and see if any service records can be found.

In 1998 I paid $4300 for it. This month we took it on a 3600 mile vacation trip, and experienced NO problems of any consequence. Details are in a post from me in the OPINIONS forum.

A great many things on a Volvo 240 can be easily repaired by a do-it-yourselfer. Parts are widely available, as are shop and service manuals and advice.

The major failing that should be a NO for you is rust. While it can be repaired, it is a major job. There are a number of places to check. For rust checks, post back if the car meets your other requirements.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)








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decision on whether or not to buy an '88 240 200

An 88 244, maybe.

I agree, the 88 was one of the best years, along with 1991-1993. For different reasons... but good reasons nonetheless.

--
a Brickboard.com Expat








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decision on whether or not to buy an '88 240 200

Bill,

The ground for the headlights may be bad ... causing the lights to seek ground through the parking lamps and/or instrument panel grounds. I had a bad brake light ground that caused the idiot lights to fire up when I stepped on the brakes. Fixed the ground and the instrument light gremlins went away.So it may not be a serious problem. Probably isn't.

As far as the '88 244 (Volvo stopped producing the two door 242 by 1988) ... I have one and it's the most trouble free of all my Bricks. Doesn't have the rotting wiring harness of the pre- 87 models and doesn't have a flakey, expensive to replace ECU like some 89 and later 240's seem to have.

I think 1988 was one of the very best years for 240s ... I'd snap up an 88 with a true 36 k regardless of what strange behavior the lights were exhibiting Just my $.02







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