Need some help on tracking down a code 1-4-4. While driving my 1990 740 GLE will stall but start right back up. If on the highway it feels like it loses power and starts to slow down but then regains power and speed. Car has been well maintained by PO for 98,000 of it's miles. I have had it for the last 12,000 miles. Done all routine maintenance. Code is loss of signal from ignition computer. I have started cleaning all the grounds in the engine compartment per FAQ. Intend to continue inside car this weekend. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Code is loss of signal from ignition computer.

Actually it's a signal loss *TO* the ICU. I'll try to find a detailed post I made on this recently, and tack it on here.

The "load" signal goes from FI ECU pin #25, to ICU pin #8.

I've done this mod on '76 up thru '86. And it should be possible on any car with the 2-filament bulb in the upper front Parking Light. Only the 4cp/5W Parking Light filament is used on USA cars. The 32cp/21W (same as Signal Lights) is used for DRLs in Europe (Invar?).

This brighter filament can be wired to come on with Key ON, and go off when Park or Headlights are turned on. The Orange bulb makes your car noticeable without being obnoxious or annoying to oncoming cars.

Here's how:

1) The trickiest part—adapt & install a wired bulb contact to match up with the 32cp lug on the bulb. Do this on each front parking light, top socket.

2) Join the Left & Right wires to a single wire and run it to the Normally Closed terminal of a spare relay (usually #87a on Bosch relays). I put the relay inside, above the driver's knees. Poke the wire thru any Firewall hole on the Left side, for access to the relay.

3) Run a wire from the relay's Operating/Input terminal (#30) to an available fuse box terminal (on the '86, I used #5, Rear Window Demister, which has +12 volts only with Key ON).

4) With the relay deenergized, the 32cp DRL lights will come on whenever the is Key ON. Next, we need a way to turn them OFF when the regular lights come on.

5) To energize the relay (turn DRLs OFF), wire the relay's "pick" terminal (#86) from Fuse 15 or 16 (+12 volts to Parking Lights). NOTE: You may need a "piggy-back" terminal extender here, if all the available fuse connectors are wired. Wire the relay ground terminal (#85) to any convenient ground point.

When the normal lights get powered, so does the relay. The DRLs then go out, and the Parking Lights come on via the normal circuit.

I'll admit that getting the bulb socket adapted is not a slam dunk. Some early cars already have the hole drilled in the right place. Others have it marked but not drilled. Others require some careful eye-balling and marking of the bulb, so you'll know where to drill for the new wire.

For the "new" wire and bulb contact, I've scrounged from junkers, and also used wiring accessory parts from Pep Boys. Most all places like that have wiring ends that will work. You can buy a Radio Shack relay or use one from the "yard". Just make sure it has a Normally Closed terminal.

If you endorse "reasonable" DRLs as I do, I think you'll be pleased with this project. I did the '86 in November 1995 and the relay is still there, always "up" when lights are on. So relay life is not a concern. The bulbs last forever too.





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Bruce Young,
'93 940-NA (current)
'80 GLE V8 (Sold 5/03)
'83 Turbo 245
'76 244 (lasted 255,000 miles)
73 142 (98K)
'71 144 (track modified--crusher bound)
New 144 from '67 to '78
Used '62 122 from '63 to '67

1-4-4 ignition fault code — not an ICM problem... ?
posted by lucid on Sat, Nov 1st 2003 at 1:39 PM

I have some Fault Tracing "Green Books", and quoting from the Rex/Regina (same for LH/EZK) fault tracing manual:

"In the partial load range, a load signal test is carried out twice per engine revolution. If the load signal is consistantly high or low, fault code 1-4-4 is set." (Signal is from The FI module.)

Fault Causes:

>Open-circuit or short-circuit to ground between (from) Fuel Injection CU #25) and (to) ICM #8.

>Defective FI Control Module.

>Open-circuit in power supply to FI Control Module. (!!!)

The last one seems related to a 1997 Service Bulletin on the 1-4-4 code, which says:

>Poor soldering on FI system relay output 87/1 can cause an intermittent open-circuit in the power supply to pin 9 in the LH 2.4 Ignition control module (clearly an error—power goes to FI module pin 9, not to ICM pin 9).

So my money's on the nefarious Fuel System relay, or its harness connector—terminal 87-1 (as I once saw blamed, but can't recall where). Calling Doctor Foster?
--

--
Bruce Young,
'93 940-NA (current)
'80 GLE V8 (Now gone)
'83 Turbo 245
'73 142 (98K)
'71 144 (track modified--and still here)
New 144 from '67 to '78
Used '62 122 from '63 to '67

Will try to check these this weekend and reply.
thx.
st

My 86 740 GLE does exactly the same thing. I would be interested to know what your idle speed is with the car in drive, foot on the brake, A/C off. Mine is usually around 700rpm. I usually use the A/C all year round because it's less likely to stall slowing down at a stop sign becuase it idles higher. But, even with the A/C on, it sometimes will start to slow down like it's loosing power almost to the point of stalling and suddenly pick up again. I won't let my wife drive it and I've had this problem for two years. I replaced all the normal tune up parts, flame trap, etc, and even the engine computer with no change. Rubber hoses look fine and wiring harness was replaced with the good stuff. Maybe I'll change the crank sensor too and see what happens.

Paul

86 745 GLE IPD/MM11's/BOGE/Intrax
94 945 Bilstein HDs

idle flucuates between 600-750. It has a slight miss that has been there since I bought the car but it never gets to the point of even feeling like it's going to stall. The only time so far it has stalled is while driving.

I'll keep you posted if I find anything definitive.

st

I'd suspect the flywheel sensor (top of bellhousing on your car I believe). It initiates the ignition pulses and sends them to the computer. Listen for the fuel pump just after cranking. If no hum, it's the sensor or possibly the computer itself (less likely).
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BillB