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Leaking Fuel Line - Help Needed! 200

Hello all,

My '91 245 is leaking fuel near the rear axle. It's the largest of the three rubber lines that connect to the tank sending unit/pre-pump. I am reluctant to replace the entire line as the connection at the tank is fairly rusty and I'm afraid I'll break the connection. The bung nut also looks rusty and I'm afraid of this leading to replacement of the entire fuel tank!

Can I splice in the repair, and, if so, is it a standard hose size or do I need to visit the Volvo dealer? Is there a kit for doing this, or can I use a piece of copper tubing and hose clamps? I've read that some of the lines have a plastic liner that can complicate things...

Also, the smallest rubber hose coming from the tank is broken off right at the top of the tank, and I can't see where it was connected to originally. It looks as though it has been broken for some time. Can anyone tell me the function of this line.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Tom








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Leaking Fuel Line - Help Needed! 200

I was mistaken - it wasn't the largest hose that was leaking (it supplies the main pump) it was the medium sized hose, which I believe is the fuel return line. I already repaired it.

Now, however, I notice that gas is seeping through the rusty steel tube connection at the tank. The bung nut is quite rusted - any success stories with removing these, or am I destined for a new tank, etc.?

Many Thanks,
Tom








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Leaking Fuel Line - Help Needed! 200

Yeah, that's a cinch to replace. You can opt for the tool (which is how I went, and I like it.. it's a nice hunk of brass so it won't spark), or you can get some screwdrivers to bang the bung nut out.. or find a nice brass drift or something. Just watch out for the sparks.

Removing it is pretty simple. It's in the trunk on a sedan, right behind the 2nd row seat in a wagon. Disconnect the battery, unfasten the return line from under the car (it won't come off of the sending unit), unplug the sending unit/pre-pump wiring, disconnect the ground wire (brown I think), pull the return line up so that it's sitting on the tank, undo the bung nut (just bang it about 1/8 turn), and then wrestle the whole thing out of the tank. The pre-pump makes it more difficult, but after trying everything you can think of two or three times you'll get the whole thing out.

I guess FCP Groton has new ones for $80, I would just hit a junk yard first. Get the gasket new from the dealer or elsewhere, and the in-tank pump from FCP Groton. The only trouble you may have is finding the 1/2" ID fuel hose.

- alex

'85 244 Turbo








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Not the tank.... 200

But probably the sending unit. About $80 at FCP for aftermarket.

This is another "rite of passage" for maintainers of old Volvos. But not as bad as the Blower Motor or Trailing Arm bushings.








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Leaking Fuel Line - Help Needed! 200

It's the largest of the three rubber lines that connect to the tank sending unit/pre-pump.

I haven't worked on later then an '89, but I recall the largest hose as being the one feeding the main pump. I don't know the I.D. either (never saw one of these leak) but would try splicing in a piece of 5/16" or 3/8" copper pipe using hose clamps.

There isn't a lot of pressure from the tank pump (well, maybe if the Main wasn't working), so that kind of fix should be perfectly secure.

The other (smallest) hose is probably a vent line going to the roll-over valve, enroute to the charcoal canister up in the front left fender ahead of the wheel. It's probably more of a conscience (environmental) issue than anything else.

--
Bruce Young,
'93 940-NA (current)
'80 GLE V8 (Sold 5/03)
'83 Turbo 245
'76 244 (lasted only 255,000 miles)
73 142 (98K)
'71 144 (track modified--crusher bound)
New 144 from '67 to '78
Used '62 122 from '63 to '67








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Leaking Fuel Line - Help Needed! 200

Most likely it's the fuel return line. They tend to rust through after years of service. That line is under zero pressure, so you can replace essentally all of it with good quality Neoprene fuel hose.

Cut the steel pipe as near to the fuel tank as is feasible and as close to the engine as is feasible.

Slide the replacement hose over the stub at each end and secure with good quality hose clamps. Secure the hose alongside the other steel lines using plastic zip ties every 6"-12", or so.

I've done several of my cars this way.
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)







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