92 940GL 191K - Regina equipped best I can tell. No symptoms except mild hesitation pulling away from lights within last week or two. Starter cranks, engine will not fire. I ran the diagnostics on the ECU and got 1-1-1, no error.
Ran the idle switch test with no error, then ran through the ECU activating the FI components but nothing except clicking, whirring, etc. Checked the FI fuse and it's OK. Checked plug and coil wire connections and tested for spark at one plug (assumed all were firing if one fired). Read lots in FAQs and in a Chilton's book. Don't own a multi-meter and never used one but could get my hands on one. The Chilton's troubleshooting sounds like it could take days. Got a couple of ideas from the FAQs but please offer suggestions on quick and dirty troubleshooting, process of elimination tricks (if there are any). Thanks.

had a similar problem with my 940 this week. I had had some performance problems with it for a week or so (stalling, not running well). Finally got to a point where it wouldn't start at all.
To check for fuel flow I disconnected the fuel line where it ran into the injectors and turned the key, plenty of flow (I had also checked the relay, and I could feel in clicking).
Anyway, to make a long story short, I talke to the mechanic at the local Volvo dealership, he suggested trying a new bell housing speed sensor, he said he had seen a few of them go bad. I replaced it, and it started right up!!!

Besides the fuel relay and the radio suppression relay, the crank position sensor may be at fault. I've had an occaisional no-start with my '93 940, Regina system. The last time it failed to start, I disconected and reconnected the crank sensor and wiggled the sensor cable down at the sensor and the car started. Today I replaced that sensor. The old one was probably original with 10 years and 107,000 miles on it. The rubber covering had split open at the sensor where I couldn't see it and there may have been an intermittant connection inside, I can't be sure. I just went out to the garage and checked the resistance of the pick-up coil in the sensor. When I move the cable near where the insulation had come off, the coil will short out. There's a good chance that has been the source of my no start.

Several on this board have recommended the replacement of the crank sensor as a preventative measure at my car's mileage. The sensor isn't expensive and took me about 10 minutes to replace.

By the way, if you feel the injectors while the ECU is going through the test sequence, you can tell if they are pulsing. If they are, the suppression relay is working since it has to complete the ground circuit for the injectors.

Thanks. I will definately check the sensor. Last night I tried to listen for the fuel pump and couldn't hear a thing. Per the other guys' suggestions, I pulled both the relays and looked inside them. There were no obvious solder cracks and I was afraid to resolder ALL the connections for fear of CREATING a problem that might not be there. It occured to me that if I could hear the relays clicking during the test sequence that they were probably OK. Do you think that is a safe assumption? If I try the sensor, and that doesn't fix it, what would you suggest as the next step? Someone said that the fuel pump is expensive - is that for the part or for the labor or both? Don't know if I'd want to try removing the gas tank on my own......

"...Don't know if I'd want to try removing the gas tank
on my own...... "


The pump/pickup/guage sender equipment is accessable through an access door up in the forward left area of the trunk. Pull back the carpet and you'll see it.

Thanks, guess I'll be cllimbing into the trunk tonight. I appreciate your following this thread. Hopefully, I'll know more tomorrow.

If you are getting spark and you can hear the fuel pump priming when you turn the key on, (but still won't start), it is very likely the Radio Suppression Relay. Like the fuel pump relay, it develops cracks in the circuitry solder and benefits from re-flowing the solder.

Not sure about the 940, but on the 740 Regina's it's mounted on the front of the coolant overflow bottle.

Oh yea, forgot to ask. If the fuel pump is in the gas tank, will I be able to hear it from the driver's seat? I've never heard it before, but then, I have never listened for it either.

Listen carefully when you first turn on the ignition (before cranking the starter). You should be able to hear it run for about one or two seconds. It helps to have the LH rear passenger door open.

I deal mainly with Swedish Engineering, simply because they're located close to my work, I can get the stuff immediately, and save the postage. The price of the parts themselves puts them on a par with places like FCP Groton, whenever I've compared.

Thanks! This is good news. I had great success resoldering by climate control unit. If that doesn't work, do you have a favorite source for replacement relays?

90% of no starts are due to faulty fuel pump relays, just replace or resolder.

Thanks! This is good news. I had great success resoldering by climate control unit. If that doesn't work, do you have a favorite source for replacement relays?