I recently got a replacement B230F engine put into my '87 244 five days ago, at first it sounded and ran great - then I started to notice that I got really poor gas mileage: only got 79 miles for half tank of gas - normal city driving. Then yesterday after I started her, as I let her warm up I heard the engine rpm go up and down (never touched accelerator). I drove her about 2 miles before I stopped and heard her reving at high rpm - I gave the accelerator a light tap and the engine returned to normal for about a minute then started to sputter/rough idle - then she stalled. I have not been able to keep her running more then 30 seconds before she sputters and stalls again. Any suggestions?

FYI - I'm pissed about replacing the engine because the mechanic lied to me about needing to replace it due to a slipped timing belt. I'm not sure if he screwed something else up to get me back in!

I also might add that the flywheel was replaced because it broke.

when was the last time you changed your fuel filter?

Happened to me about 8 months ago, $10 and an hour of sniffing gas under the car and everything was back to normal.

Oh and make sure those copper washers are very clean when you put them on, else you'll have a leak and have to spend another hour doing it again.

Chuck
'88 244 170K
'87 BMW 325 170K

- Throttle Body / Throttle Position Sensor: Make sure the throttle body is cleaned, the butterfly is closing fully, and the TPS switch is adjusted and working correctly. Perhaps the TPS switch is slightly loose, and the engine computer cannot tell whether you want to rev up or down. Search the Brickboard or check a manual for details on how to adjust the TPS.

- Idle Air Control Valve: This unit controls engine speed at idle. When it fails, you will have a rough idle. However, it should not cause gas mileage problems that extreme.

- Electical Connectors: See if any electical connectors are dangling loose. Perhaps the TPS or IAC electrical connectors were not snug, and worked their way loose.

- Fuel Pressure Regulator: Verify that raw gas is not leaking thru to the intake manifold. Search the Brickboard for details on troubleshooting this part.

- Vacuum Leaks: Check for vacuum leaks around the intake manifold (perhaps it wasn't tightened properly). Also check ALL vacuum lines, especially in the "accordian" tube from the MAF meter to the throttle body.

- Volvo Mechanic: Is your mechanic a Volvo specialist? Did he replace the cylinder head only, or other parts too? Were new engine sensors used (engine coolant temp sensor, knock snesor)? What mileage and condition was the car in before the repair? It is possible that one or more of these items really need to be replaced anyway, especially when it comes to vacuum lines. I would perform MINOR troubleshooting myself, then then take the car back to the same shop to see what they say next. For the cost of a Volvo 240 engine replacement, you should get at least seven days of automotive happiness... maybe even ten!

[[ southern fried volvo '91 240 148k mi ]]

I'd check the fuel pressure regulator, it's under the fuel rail on the intake (driver's) side of the engine. It's a 2" can like thing with a small hose coming to the back, a smaller hose coming out of the front (vacuum), and a metal connection to the fuel rail above. To check it, pull off the vacuum hose (small one on front), and smell it. If it smells like gas, the FPR is bad, replace it. It's about $40-$50 and solved the stalling problems I was having for a long time.