Hi gang.

It's cold outside, for CA, anyway, and it's wet, so the rackin frackin heater core has become an issue. With my 240Z needing work, and my sister's "new" 744ti needing a clutch (and maybe a heater core itself), and with the yard needing tree-trimming, the ole brick takes a back seat.

At the hardware store today getting, uhhh, hardware to put my 100K and 200K badges on, I grabbed a big bottle of Bars Leak. Worth a shot for $3. Instructions basically say, make sure the coolant level is correct, the engine cold. Add 1/2 bottle for 4cyl engines and run for 15-30 minutes.

I've never used this stuff before, so if any pro's have tips, let me have'm!
--
Kyle
Santa Rosa, CA

1980 242GT 198K
1990 744Ti 115K
1972 Riviera 130K
1972 240Z 1K (since restoration)
1972 Datsun Pickup 87K(187K?)

I have a 242 gt with a leaky water pump top seal and my mechanic here in Victoria BC suggested I put in some "Stop Leak." Seems to have solved the problem unless it gets below around 32 F at night.

I would first like to echo what volvorelix said -- "DON"T". That being said, if you have to have a temporary fix, I have had good results with a product called Dike from Conklin Industries .... remember it's temporary. Unlike the stuff you are talking about, this is a liquid (almost same consistency as antifreeze) with no graphite or other gumming substance. Link is below if you're interested ... they shipped pretty quickly in my case --just my 2 cents worth.

Best of luck;
randy b
http://www.mooreagrisales.com/vehicles/dike.html

It my work for a bit, but you'll hate yourself in the morning. That stuff usually does more damage than good. Best to do as Eric suggested for a temporrary fix, besides, what do you need heat for in California?

I used it when the heater core on my 765t blew. It lasted a day. I also tried it in the middle of a MN winter to stop a leak in my Mazda Protege, and it didn't even slow it down. It's worth a shot, but be warned that it can gunk up the whole system, and may not work at all depending on how bad the leak is.

If you need to have the car running and don't want to breathe fumes, disconnect the two hoses leading to the heater core in the engine compartment along the firewall. Then connect them together. No heat, but no smell or fogging windows either.

Good Luck!
-Eric
'89 765t, 181k
'72 BMW R75/5, 38k, summer transportation

I think there's more at stake here than your three bucks. Waterpump, thermostat etc. may be gummed up from the stuff. I'm not a pro though, so let's hear what others' comments are!

Edit: Oops, three of us posted simultanously.

Erling.
--
My 240 Page

The directions are really accurate. Just do what it says and you should be fine. However, if you have a serious leak it won’t do anything special for you. I don’t like using it in my Volvo’s because you cant put it directly into the radiator...you have to pour it in to the expansion tank, I have always been afraid of having the thin hose clog/gum up.
But if time is any issue for you, and you more than likely will replace and/or fix the radiator in the future...by all means give it a try and see if it gets you out of a jam.
--
VOLVO LOVER WITH AN 80 AND AN 82

One suggestion when it comes to using stopleak:

DON'T!

Best,

Cameron
Rose City