PO changed the timing belt at 99K. I bough the car when it had 155K miles, I am now at 158K. I am due for a timing belt.

Haynes says every 45K miles, the Volvo Owner's Manual schedule calls for 50K miles interval for this maintenance.

Now from I read, the B230F 2.3 liters engine is non interference, and the worth that can happen is that I will get stranded. Can you confirm that ?

Should timing belt be my next expense ? Or can I just try to wait another 10K? Am I pushing it ? How much have you been able to put on a timing belt?

I am seriously due for some struts, shocks and suspension bushings, can't do it all ... financially.

Thanks for your input.
--
'89 244DL M47 158K miles

As has been mentioned, you might easily go quite a bit longer without changing the belt, but I just question your thinking if you are putting this one off, and instead be putting your bread into new struts and shocks, etc. If that is your plan, I think you need to rethink your plan. A complete timing belt kit- even with tensioner - isn't going to cost you what just one of your strut inserts will set you back. And old shocks aren't going to strand you on the highway in a possibly dangerous situation.

If I were you I'd do the timing belt, then change the suspension items as I could afford them.

Very good suggestion. My thinking was based on a shop performing the timing belt. A local shop is asking 300USD for timing belt, tensioner, all other belts, and the three seals, parts, labour and taxes included, leaving current water pump alone. (very good mechanic who works by himself, used to be at the Volvo dealership for 20 years). The price seems attractive to me because he is doing the seals too... for tilming belt alone he asks for 100 dollars (parts, labour, taxes).

To tell you the truth I m a bit reluctant of doing the timing belt all by myself as I have never done one, and I would hate to screw up.

But you are right I am going to hold off for the comfort ride until next summer, I'll drive with the clunks and the spongy/bouncy feeling for a few more months. No big deal.
--
'89 244DL M47 158K miles

IComparing the work I have had to put in doing the belt myself, I think 100 is a good price for the belt change. Ask him to replace the tensioner too. Skip the other things if the aren´t leaking.

I once bought a 245 with about 100 k, and changed the belt pretty soon. That belt was pretty frayed, looking like it would las only a short time. My guess is that the service interval is set so that if one change is missed it shall in 95 or 99%of the cases last to the next change interval. Going beyond that is to stretch things severely.

I just changed mine. My 87 245 shows 151K miles on the odometer, though the odometer was broken for about 20K of those miles at the 118K mile mark, so I estimate about 170K miles in actuality. The timing belt was replaced at 50K and 100K miles at the dealer, prior to odometer failure, so the belt I just replaced had about 70K miles on it. Since I had no oil leaks, the belt was in excellent shape, and I probably could have gone a while without changes. I have kept the old belt just in case I need a temporary belt in the future, being careful to mark the running direction it was previously installed in.

I should note that the difference in tensioner positions between the old belt and the new belt was substantial. With the old belt, the tensioner had clearly been adjusted to account for the stretching one expects with usual wear and tear on a timing belt. The new timing belt had hardly the same amount of slack in it, and it was a challenge to get it to slip over the cam/inter/crank gears as well as the tensioner. I would describe it as a very snug, perfect fit. It made me appreciate the practice of adjusting the tensioner at the designated intervals. Also worth mentioning is that you should be attentive to how deep the tensioner dowel is inserted into the engine block. I think I only saw one mention from Chris Herbst of this potential problem among all the online resources I studied before doing the belt change. After installing the belt, make sure the dowel is fully seated in the block. You might have to use gentle taps on the dowel from a punch and hammer to drive it all the way in. Incorrect seating of the tensioner in the block could easily shorten the life of the tensioner and its bearings.

The best part about the job was that the timing was perfect after everything was back together.

Kourt
87 245
Austin, Texas

Thanks kourt.

So I could wait let's say another 10K since I am approaching the 60K miles mark since last timing belt change (good for my wallet right now).

Should I change the tensioner? It was not changed at last timing belt change (at 99K miles). What about water pump, it was changed at 99K miles, should I replace it as preventive maintenance?

You seem to suggest that the time belt should re-tension or adjusted from time to time. How often should the belt be checked for tensioning?

Many thanks.
--
'89 244DL M47 158K miles

Tensioner change seems to be recommended (1) if it's noisy, even a little bit, and (2) every other timing belt change.

Last time I did a timing belt I forgot to tighten the tensioner bolt before giving the engine a hand turn to check things - and the timing promptly jumped a tooth on the cam gear. Had to re-do a lot. AFAIK to re-tension the belt requires only removal of the rubber plug, 17 mm socket to loosen the nut, tighten it to torque specification (Haynes sez 36Lb-ft), replace plug. DO NOT let that plug get through the hole and into the belt area. BTDT one time - lesson learned.

Good Luck,

Bob

Murphy's Law has a funny way of taxing your wallet. If you put off the timing belt change, you set yourself up for a complete engine failure, which will most likely happen when it is raining and you're driving down a major highway, or when you are just about to go on a date. Either way, you are severely inconvenienced. You could change the belt now and turn your back on the possibility of paying for a tow truck if you neglect the belt.

Check the tensioner by spinning it after the belt is off. Look and listen. If there is a lot of play in the spinning action, consider a replacement. If the tensioner exhibits a distinct oscillating sound while spinning, there could be a worn bearing, which would also qualify for replacement. Leave the water pump alone for now.

Note the rubber plug on the plastic timing belt cover. After driving about 500 miles, pull off the plug, loosen the tensioner nut (one turn is fine), crank the engine one revolution, then retighten the tensioner. Consult the 700/900 FAQ or your Bentley for the torque specifics (and don't try this without consulting those resources!). Don't forget to put the rubber plug back when done.

kourt

As B.C. suggests, the main cause of premature timing belt failure is oil saturation (probably from leaky seals) which results in the teeth tearing off. So if there are no leaks, your timing belt should go for awhile.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans

Remove the upper half of the timing belt cover and look in there for oil leaks on the camshaft or intermediate shaft seal. No leaks? Belt will last a good bit longer. If you see evidence of a leak, change the belt.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

I let one go until it broke. No problems except for being out of service for about 3.5 hrs. It lasted appx. 127,000 miles.

Generally you are okay, but I had one break on my wife's car with only 45,xxx miles on it. Spend the few bucks and change it.
--
john

Probably. The belt costs about $25.

Better to be safe than sorry.
You can get a new belt at Car Quest for about $20.00 bucks.
The worst to happen is a tore up timing cover,and left on the side of the road with a tow bill which is more than the belt cost.
You can put the belt on yourself 3hrs max and 1 3/4hrs if you done it before.
81 240GL Parts car
86 240GL 181,000
88 240DL wagon 193,000
2000 S80T6 40,000

Wow, timing belts must be expensive where you live. I can pick one up locally for $11.
--
1991 245, 61k miles, looking for a 5 speed 92-93 245 cheap.