Hi,

Car is cranking but not starting. Just make grungrungrungrunrun noise. Have a pretty new battery and alternator checked out fine. Also, just replace starter thinking this was the problem. However, may this be fuel injector if i have one or turbo injector problem? Also, put gas cleaner in the tank. It was not starting like this off and on for some time but after some rest or a jump start it would start right up. However now jump start is not helping. Can anyone help?

yeah .. check to see if your computer is fried from jumping it .. also it could be the fuel pump .. also as you said it may be a injector (blown or wireing). or the fuel filter may be clogged .. or it could be a leak. well if it is not any of that check if you are geting any spark .. and all the other stuf that goes along with that.

Have you checked for a spark at the sparkplugs? Do you hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds when the ignition key is turned to the start position? When the engine is cranked does the tachometer needle move at all? Let us know the answers to the above questions and maybe we can zero in on a solution. Check out the frequently asked questions for more information about "no start conditions".

John

I'm going to check the spark plugs as you've suggested. However, what is the fuel pump supposed to sound like. If it is a buzzing noise I've heard that after trying to crank the car 5 times or so. But this happens at a point where the engine is not even cranking or making the grungrungrunrun trying to start sounds. Lastly, please excuse my ignorance but what is the tachometer needle and where do i check that out at?

Thanks for your help.

If you turn the ignition key to the start position and engage the starter for a second and release the key, the fuel pump should run and buzz for a couple of seconds. If you do not here the pump run, check the fuses and if good resolder or replace the fuel pump relay located behind the fuses.

Like has already been pointed out the tachometer is the large gauge located next to the speedometer and tells you how fast the engine is running.

John

By the way, the fuel pump seems to make that buzzing noise. But as I mentioned earlier, I just about to test the plugs with a more inclined friend/mechanic. Then I shall respond with confidence.

Thanks again

Thanks for your explanation Re: the Fuel Pump & the Tachometer. Which I know as the RPM. I'm just about to test the spark plugs. However, as a note the car more times than not when at a stop either in Drive or Park continues to race up and down on the Tachometer (RPM). Almost made me think could it need a pcv valve if there is one in this model. But when I begin driving everything is smooth until I come to a stop. Mulletbreath & everyone else I'll do my best to let you know how things go. Hope we can get our problems fixed.

Regards

the tach is the gauge next to your speedo. it's the RPM meter.
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Kenric Tam
1990 Volvo 740 base sedan (B230F)
My Volvo 'Project'

Maybe we could collaborate on this issue. I am experiencing similar issues with my '86 740 B230 FT Wagon, it has a '89 Bertone motor in it, Bosch FI system.

1) I have a car that cranks
2) I have spark to the plugs
3) I have correct fuel pressure and a new FPR
4) I have no vacuum leaks
5) I have a used 007 AMM (one from the ABC Boneyard)
6) I have a whole new distributor post
7) I have a clean TB throat
8) No obstructions in the ait intake system
9) The Cold Temp flapper in the airbox is in the cold start position
10) Now wtf ? The car runs like it's choking on too much fuel (I think)
11) Or NOT enough air ?

Any other ideas ? I heard mention of a ground wire from the AMM to (someplace), since it's an electrical possibility to have a bad gorund and the AMM is indeed electrical would a bogus or lose/hi resistance ground to the AMM cause this symptom (I think yes !)

Where is the AMM harness grounded to ?



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Rich George

Hello fellow 86' 740 B230ft wagon owner! I have some similiar problems as both of you. Mine has been going on for awhile so it has gotten worse. Can you keep in touch on this one. I would sure like to figure it out and fix it! It has been driving me crazy! What are some of the other symptoms you have been having?

Anastasia

86'740 turbo wagon 364,000
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To start, I believe there should be a grounding area on left inside side panel,(will have ignition ECU grounded here) definitely one next to FI ECU on rt side panel. Remove instrument cluster(2 hidden screws behind pop off covers ) follow black wires from cluster.I think there is another ground area next to relay/fuse cluster area. Inside engine compartment- front left side near charcoal cannister, left headlight( this is a high failure area). Firewall ground strap to valve cover.


Measure resistance of ground from battery post to engine block. High resistance indicates corroded ground wire.(may be internal and not visable at ends)

Measure voltage across ground from alternator to block.

Good Luck , Joe

I took it out for a spin and the power is where it should be, I am happy with that much improvement.
The surging is still there.

I found a collapsed and corroded vacuum line coming off of the TB that goes to the Turbo Vacuum indicator on the dash and have replaced it. I realize that this would not and does not account for the surging of the motor but, only the visual indication that the motor is surging on the Vacuum/turbo meter on the dash. This is JUST an assumption - I could be wrong of course.

The car does restart after it's been shut off but, takes about 5 turns to start, as in not instant ignition. It feels like it is running rich as it surges. (just an unproven feeling!).

The motor surges when idling and on neutral, doesn't surge in gar, I guess that would be "normal" given the "abnormality" of the motor surging.

This AMM has a different adjustment on it than the 006 one that came out. The set screw in this AMM has two holes in it for special tool to be inserted into it, the old one had a regular flathead screw type.

1) Should I attempt to adjust the AMM ? If so, what is the homemade remedy for the special tool ? Any suggestions ?

2) Now that I have the car running ? Where should I go next to troubleshoot the surging issue ?

Thanks in advance.
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Mulletbreath

When you say the car is surging do you mean, by what you hear or your rpm gauge? Is it just during cold start? Have you cleaned your throttle housing body (replaced gasket)? If your car is running rich there could be many reasons....

Not sure about adjusting your AMM, never had to do it, hopefully someone else can help your there. You might want to post a seperate question for this so it is seen.

Glad to here the brick is going... though I am not sure for how long. That is if you didn't actually do anything to fix the problem. It may just be temp. fixed. For what reason I do not know, I have been having the same problem with my car. Works fine for awhile, then acts up again, over and over I have been going through this for months. I wish no ill will on your brick...

I'll be working on my car tomorrow. I have a list of things to run through. If I discover anything I will touch base with you again...just in case it helps you...

Anastasia

Yeah, it's driveable now but, it is still surging though not as bad becasue I pulled of the Constant Idle Valve and douched it out really well. There was some improvement after I did this though it is not totally corrected.

I am going wrench today too. I'll post anything I come across that might be of any help to either one of us or anyone for that matter. I intend to pull the plugs and check the timing just to see what they look like. It's freeezing here ! Let's stay in touch on this ok ? Rich

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Mulletbreath

Hey everyone,

I finally gave up on why my brick is not starting. Had a bad time this weekend getting stucked some where. It is now with the mechanic as I need to have this corrected. Only thing it is starting just fine for him. Lastly, I came across an idea while I was stuck for 3 hours in the cold this weekend. I recently had overdrive issues. O/D was not going on got the shifter harness replaced after a diagnosis but still didn't work. Thanks to the wonderful people here, some one suggested my O/D relay. which I changed and voom just like that it has worked great since.

Now back to what I came across. While just double checking the fuses I noticed I had a fuel pump relay. pulled it out and it was the orginal as was that O/D. Does any one think this could be the answer?

In my past, I have had intermittent start problems for sometime before my fuel pump relay would finaly go. I always keep a spare handy just in case! I have never had it not work for hours though. Hope your mechanic can find the problem.

Best of luck,

Anastasia
86' 740t wagon 364,000

oops, sent the last response to the wrong post, sorry!