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Just a qucik question. My 740 was amde in Belguim. Does this make the brick an "oddball' or it it fairly common ?
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Rich George
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Common, that is the Volvo Europe plant. My flathood ('83 242Ti) was made there.
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My 1990 740 proudly states on its VIN plate that it was made in Belgium. My 1988 240 was made in Gothenburg.
I don't believe the factory where the car was made has any bearing on its build quality though. My 740 has NO RUST, not even from untreated stone chips. The 240 was, however as rotten as a pear...
Did they galvanise the 740? And where in Belgium is this factory?
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Volvo For Life. And then some...
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Thanks, I was just wondering about it, that's all. I really like the way the car rides loks and handles but, it's running like crap now and I am in the middle of isolating the actual issue so it runs the way it used to. This AMM and performance issue is driving me ballistic.
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Rich George
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My 90 740 came off the Begium assembly line.
What year is your's? Regina or Bosch fuel system? What's it doing wrong?
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Mine is an 86 740 Wagon, with a 89 Bertone B230FT motor, Bosch injected. Turns over, won't fire, spark is there to the plugs, fuel pumps loads when the key is turned on, fuel is to the rack, FPR was replaced in July, whole new distributor in July, no vacuum leaks, replaced AMM with a 007 Bosch PN, checked connections to the AMM Socket and plug from the harness to the AMM connector looks just fine & clean. It runs in Limp home mode (like crap of course). Any thoughts ? Thanks in advance !
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Rich George
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Bosch catalog shows 007 AMM as a '91 Audi Quattro application.
I'm not familiar with the Bertone, but if it's a B280, the AMM should be an 006.
OOPS! Got my 212s and 213s mixed up. Guess you have the B230FT?
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Yes lucid, to the best of my knowledge I have a B230FT, of course that's to the best of my knowledge. So - an 006 came out and I put in an 007. I am thoroughly confused now. I do know for fact there is a 89 Bertone motor in it.
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Mulletbreath
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0-280-212-007 converts to AMS007X (Exchange) for '85-'88 B230 and '85-'89 B230FT, so you have the right one.
0-280-213-007 is my Audi mistake
There is no 0-280-212-006 listed in my 1992 bosch catalog
0-280-213-006 is listed for the '86-'90 V-6 B280F (the only 006 AMM I could find) If this is what you had, it is wrong for the B230.
Hope this absolves me from my previous slip-up. And maybe even helps?
Bruce
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Bruce Young,
'93 940-NA (current)
'80 GLE V8 (Sold 5/03)
'83 Turbo 245
'76 244 (lasted only 255,000 miles)
73 142 (98K)
'71 144 (track modified--crusher bound)
New 144 from '67 to '78
Used '62 122 from '63 to '67
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Dude !! Finally, some clarity. That settles that. I do have the correct AMM (007) for the B230FT. Now that this is resolved, the car still cranks, has spark, has fuel, has no vacuum leaks, clean TB, correct fuel pressure, fuel to the injectors and has the correct AMM. The car still starts and runs in limp home mode. It's nice out today so I will go out and have a look under the hood again.
Would the timing being way out of whack cause the poor starting (I mean very poor starting) and hunting RPM issue ? It's off about 2 degrees. I would think not.
When it does start, and runs in either limp home mode or with the AMM plugged in, the motor hunts and the power sucks really bad. Something ain't right and we have a another Nor'easter due in this Sunday. HELP !!
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Mulletbreath
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If DOESN'T run with the AMM plugged in, and it WILL limp with it unplugged, it sounds like a bad AMM. But I don't know for sure. You might want to re-post at the top of the list with a title like "Suspect Bad AMM", and see what others offer for advice. I guess that year didn't have an OBD system to check.
Where did you get the current AMM?
Side note: Are really a "Mullet" (possible relative) or just suffering from an oral affliction?
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Alrighty then ! After cranking the 740 with my foot to the floor (and the 007 AMM from ABC Boneyard installed and plugged in) on the gas for about one minute, it finally started. It's out in the driveway running now and it's surging. Not as bad but, it's surging. I am going to take it for a test spin and I'll post the results !!!!
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Mulletbreath
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I took it out for a spin and the power is where it should be, I am happy with that much improvement.
The surging is still there.
I found a collapsed and corroded vacuum line coming off of the TB that goes to the Turbo Vacuum indicator on the dash and have replaced it. I realize that this would not and does not account for the surging of the motor but, only the visual indication that the motor is surging on the Vacuum/turbo meter on the dash. This is JUST an assumption - I could be wrong of course.
The car does restart after it's been shut off but, takes about 5 turns to start, as in not instant ignition. It feels like it is running rich as it surges. (just an unproven feeling!).
The motor surges when idling and on neutral, doesn't surge in gar, I guess that would be "normal" given the "abnormality" of the motor surging.
This AMM has a different adjustment on it than the 006 one that came out. The set screw in this AMM has two holes in it for special tool to be inserted into it, the old one had a regular flathead screw type.
1) Should I attempt to adjust the AMM ? If so, what is the homemade remedy for the special tool ? Any suggestions ?
2) Now that I have the car running ? Where should I go next to troubleshoot the surging issue ?
Thanks in advance.
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Mulletbreath
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Rich,
Let me start by urging you to spend some time in the "700/900 FAQ" feature (see pull-down menu at top of page.) And pack a lunch. There is a ton of trouble-shooting info there. However, here are some thoughts on your comments:
"The car does restart after it's been shut off but, takes about 5 turns to start" You mean right away? Or after it's sat a while? If it's after an hour or two it could be the check valve at the fuel pump. But you have other issues too, so that's just a guess.
"This AMM has a different adjustment on it than the 006 one that came out. The set screw in this AMM has two holes in it for special tool to be inserted into it, the old one had a regular flathead screw type." That's an "anti-tamper" plug. Someone drilled it so they could "tamper" with the screw underneath. It should come out with narrow needle-nosed pliers.
"1) Should I attempt to adjust the AMM ?" Not until you have good reason to suspect it, and know how to do it. I'm sure it's in the FAQ. I usually put a meter on the O2 sensor-to-ECU connection, looking for (or adjusting to get) voltage swinging rapidly between 0.3 and 0.7 volts (maybe an occasional 0.2 and 0.8). This is with engine fully warmed and idling, with no other obvious problems.
"2) Now that I have the car running ? Where should I go next to troubleshoot the surging issue ?" As mentioned, the FAQ is a good starting point, especially if Volvos are new to you. You could meter the O2 sensor (rev to 2K for 2 minutes to get the sensor hot first), just to see what it "sees". Close to 1.0 volt and little/no bouncing = Rich. Down near 0 to 0.1 volts = Lean. Bouncing in the middle = OK. No rapid bouncing voltages = probably a dying sensor. (the ECU makes rapid corrections to the mixture, the sensor should respond rapidly too.)
But I wouldn't adjust the AMM till other areas have been ruled out (Vacuum leaks, ignition, fuel supply & pressure, etc.)
Hope this helps,
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Bruce Young,
'93 940-NA (current)
'80 GLE V8 (Sold 5/03)
'83 Turbo 245
'76 244 (lasted only 255,000 miles)
73 142 (98K)
'71 144 (track modified--crusher bound)
New 144 from '67 to '78
Used '62 122 from '63 to '67
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4-5 turn overs sounds about right to me to restart a b230ft....mine takes that..
as for the surging i know from experience that a SMALL cvacume leak at the manafold (try unplugging the turbo guage hose!) will have that sort of effect...
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