I'm about to embark on replacing the rear transmission seal and bushing on my '89 740 Turbo brick (115K miles). I've studied the FAQ carefully and read the many posts regarding this job. I think I've got this figured out, but I wanted to post my proposed steps, with the hopes of getting pointers from you in case I have something wrong. Thanks in advance!

1) Place the car on 4 jackstands, as high as possible
2) Drain ATF via drain plug on bottom of pan
3) Make alignment notes on end of drivetrain and end of flange, where they meet.
4) Place tranny in neutral
5) Using rear wheels to turn the drivetrain, loosen and remove all 4 bolts holding drivetrain to flange. Keep notes of which bolt goes where. Move drivetrain out of the way
6) Place tranny in park
7) Using 30mm socket, remove center flange nut. Remove flange. Catch oil.
8) Disconnect wires and linkage from tranny (how much do I need to remove?)
9) Support tranny at pan with hydraulic jack, using a board of wood to distribute weight
10) Remove center bolt holding transmission mount to cross member
11) Remove four bolts holding crossmember to chassis. Remove crossmember
12) Slowly lower the transmission to make room for access on the top.
13) Brush, wipe, blow all the debris off of the unit. Also wipe the body pan.
14) Remove bolts holding rear housing to tranny. Remove rear housing. Catch oil.
15) Inspect gasket to determine if reusable. If not, either scrape away leftover gasket on tranny and housing, or use sealant when putting things together again to insure proper seal.
16) Remove old seal
17) Either punch out old bushing, or bring to shop to press out old bushing and insert new bushing
18) Insert new seal (and bushing if applicable) into rear housing.
19) Attach new gasket if applicable.
20) Install rear housing, torque bolts to spec (does anyone know them?)
21) Install crossmember
22) Install center mount nut
23) Install flange, torque center bolt to spec
24) Attach flange to drivetrain, insuring proper bolts are used and alignment is as marked earlier
25) Lower car. Add ATF as needed. Test drive, check for leaks.

Do I have this right? Any and all comments are welcome - I want to this job once, and get it right.

Thanks again!

Wow, and people think I'M anal! Good list, I think you'll be fine. If you are only changing the bushing and seal on the rear of the tranny, there isn't any need to lower the crossmount. That is only needed when you're changing the tranny mount or the actual tranny. The shift linkage is all you'll need to disconnect, IIRC, and it's obvious on the how-to. You can also get the bushing out of the tailshaft housing on the bench with judicious use of a hacksaw blade. Basically, you cut the bushing through on one side and it will fall in.I also don't think you need to drain the ATF from the pan for this job. I thing the oil in the tailshaft housing is what has leaked past the seal.

The special tool that was once offered by IPD is no longer offered, probably, because of me. I rented the tool and destroyed it, simultaneously jamming the threaded end into my tranny's tailshaft. When I talked to IPD, they didn't believe that I was able to do such a thing. I had the car towed to a shop and fixed. To IPD's CREDIT, they realized after I sent back the broken pieces that their tool supplier had sent them the wrong tool and they had actually sent me a bushing removal tool for FORD's!! They stood behind the mistake, paying for my repairs and towing. I think they'd have been ok if they had a step in their process to verify all incoming tools before releasing them to customers, but I think this is what led them to pulling this tool from their catalog.

HTH,

someguyfromMaryland

Don't I need to remove the crossmount to get access to the bolts holding the rear housing to the tranny?

Why not invest in the special tool for this job. No need to drain the fluid or lower the transmission. Bushing and seal can be replaced from the outside in a very short time. I believe it costs $50- $70. Can probably be resold easily on this board once you are done.

The special tool works very well and is available from tool dealers other than IPD. Shops use them all the time to make this a 1/2 hour job.