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I simply pull the coil wire off the center of the distributor cap, and put the end over by the left hood hinge. It can kind of be tucked in there, so that the brass end is about 1/4 inch from the car body (not grounded out). In this position you can observe the spark coming from the end of the wire, while you turn the key.
If there's no spark, you'll get no fuel either. The computer must receive pulses from the distributor sensor in order to enable the fuel pumps.
If there is no spark it's possible that the timing belt has failed. You want to either remove the oil cap, and look at the camshaft, or remove the dist cap and look at the rotor. Turn the engine over and see if the cam, or rotor turns. If so, then the timing belt is intact- if not it is broken and you need a new one. There should be no other damage to the engine from this failure. If the belt is oily, the three front oil seals must be changed as well. FCP Groton sells a timing belt kit for only $11.95- check them out at www.fcpgroton.com
You need a bit more diagnosis if the timing belt is NOT broken. The fuel pump relay is always suspect- try a new one next, and also inspect the white fuse holder behind the battery. Should be clipped to the fender edge, but sometimes the fuseholder falls down by the power steering reservoir. It's only $3 from Volvo- disconnect the battery if you find you have to replace this. They do get crusty, corroded, or melted, and this is main power for the fuel injection!
After those steps, it could be a fuel pump, or a failed coil or something similar. Also, I just fixed an 87 last month, similar symptoms- check the grey 2-pin connector right near the coil (see pic) and make sure it's clean inside and fully engaged. Good luck with it!!
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 225K, 88 744GLE- 209K, 91 244 183K. Also responsible for the care and feeding of: 88 745GLE, 229K, 88 244GL, 146K, 87 244DL, 235K, 88 245DL, 236K
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