The small clock on my 84 GL (244) quit working years ago. I had not thought about replacing it because I am "afraid" to tear into the dash and I am too cheap to pay to have it done. Now that I have found this board, maybe you folks will help me out?? How can I get the old clock out? Is it straightly a dealer item? Any other companies may have them? Appreciate any help.

Some additional details on removal: a thin screwdriver or knife can be inserted at one side of the square plastic panel that surrounds the clock, about 1/3 of the way up from the btm edge. Pry gently and that side will pop out, then the whole panel is easy to remove. The clock is not attached to this panel. Once the panel is off you can pull the clock straight out - don't try to twist it.

On cars I've done, the clock wiring is barely long enough to release the clock enough to get your fingers in there and disconnect the terminals. Once done (with appropriate cautions as others said), test the wiring to eliminate it as the source of the dead clock. You need a little voltmeter or a test light. Connect it between the Red and the Black wires and make sure there's 12V. If so, you do have a dead clock. If not check fuse No.8. If that's OK, then perhaps the wiring for the clock has become disconnected at the other end, repair of which requires either incredible dexterity under the dash, or removal of the instrument cluster - another relatively simple job. Get back to us on that.
--
Bob (81-244GL B21F, 83-244DL B23F, 94-944 B230FD plus grocery-getter Dodge minivan, MGB, and numerous old motorcycles)

Thanks Volvodad. All the fuses are good. I never had any part of the dash off/out. I was gun-shy about this because I didn't know how involved. It is unlikely that any of the wire connections got disconnected by accident. So, I am 90% confident that it is the clock. I am going to get a replacement clock first before I remove the old one. (Do it once.) I am going to search for a replacement on-line. Any tips? Thanks again.

I have a tip for you I'm sure Bob will back up. The clocks die mainly because two electrolytic capacitors dry up. This drying out affects this type of capacitor in all electronics, but the capacitors in the clock are particularly necessary to basic function. When it gets cold, their capacity decreases further, so most clocks start losing time when winter comes and suddenly come alive again when the car warms up.

So, what this means is, unless your seller indicates he's replaced the capacitors, you'll likely end up with another dying clock, of course, depending on the weather on the other side of the ebay transaction. Or try to get one from a late model "GL" car-- I think most small clocks were earlier rather than later made.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Thanks for your info, Art. It sounds like I might be better off to get a new clock from the dealer if it is still available. $$$$$

That option never crossed my mind. Wonder how fresh theirs would be?

I'm beginning to think the capacitors are mostly dried out by the 1.2W lamp that keeps it backlit while the lights are on. So, maybe age isn't as much a factor as how many miles are driven with the lights on?? The clock gets pretty warm from that lamp.

Hi, Art,
I found a VDO clock, 2 1/16 diameter, at www.egauges.com for about $52. Are you familiar with that? Will it fit properly? I will check with the dealers before I decide on it. Hmmm, if I use all OEM parts, the car will be worth more in the future, right? Hehehe. Thanks for your help.

Removing the small clock takes 10 seconds if you're methodical. Replacing it takes 15 seconds.
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

I have one I'd sell for 10 bucks plus shipping. Swapping it out is a 5 minute job, if you're slow.
--
1991 245, 61k miles, looking for a 5 speed 92-93 245 cheap.

Do you still want to sell the clock? Please E-mail me @ calvin.chui@sbcglobal.net.

Brick rule 1- You can do it easily yourself and in this case it is trivial
Brick rule 2-The dealers price for things will be a great incentive to find another way

Lets just start with those. There are only three wire connections on the back of a small clock, but do not touch the fat red one to any metal (besides the clock) when you do this. The terminal should be shielded and do not let the plastic protector slip to far. You might find the wires a little short for manouvering the clock but it will pull out of the dash when you unsnap the bezel. And do not let the three rubber mount feet get lost.

I assume you mean you have the small clock mounted in the little bezel just to the left of the radio. Or do you have the large clock mounted to the left of the speedometer?

If you have the small clock, it's one of the easier items to replace. In fact, when you see how easy it is, you'll wonder why you didnt do it before. There are essentially no tools required here.

The small clocks are available on ebay all the time. If you want to get fancy, the VDO cockpit series clock witll fit too.

To remove your old clock, first, you need to pry off the square bezel that surrounds the clock. You can pry it out with a butter knife using gentle pressure. It's just held in by 2 plastic clips. It should pop right off.

One the clock is exposed, you can pull it straight out. You may have to pry it a bit arond the edge to get it started, but its just held in place by the compression of the three rubber "feet" on the outer circumference.

Don't lose the little rubber feet.

Unplug the wires from the back and reinstall your new clock in the opposite order of dissassembly.


--
Greg P. 1988 240 DL "Olga" 165,000 miles

the cluster comes out easily, and you might just have to tighten teh scre on teh back of thte clock.