My wife said that it seemed as if her 245 was having trouble getting gas. So I drove it first thing this morning. As soon as I pulled it out of the driveway and started up a hill, the wagon just wouldn't move. I shifted into neutral and revved it up and shifted into D. It finally engaged the transmission. It went fine on level and downhill. Got to another long hill and the car revved past 4 on the tack and finally shifted normally and the tack dropped back down to around 2. I immediately took it to my mechanic and described these symptoms. He said, "Sounds like it is on its last legs." The car has 185,000 on it. I did recently changed the tranny fluid. Did I not refill it right? I used Castrol Dextron III. Any ideas? Thanks, George

George,
I had the same problem. I was told by a mechanic that it would cost me a lot to fix.

So I went to Autozone and got a bottle of "Lucas Oil Transission Fix" for $7.99. I only used half of the amount(followed the instruction). I experienced the difference immediately and my 88 240 was back to normal completely.

Good luck.

George,

It could be just low on fluid, lets hope. If your in a cold weather climate being low on fluid will make the syptoms a little worse.

Get the trans warm and on level ground and recheck the fluid level.

If the old fluid was burnt and crudy, then she may be on her last legs, SORRY.

Good luck,
--
Bruce S. near D.C.

I'm betting it's a case of low transmission fluid. 90% of the transmission problems that I see (in my friend's vehicles who do not regularly check their fluids) are simply due to low fluid level. Sometimes they start to mis-behave when 0.75 quarts low, others can get as low as 2 quarts before problems start to present themselves. Everything from minor slipage, to harsh engagements, etc... Check your tranny fluid before you do anything else.

God bless,
Fitz Fitzgerald.
--
'87 Blue 245, NA 230K

Thanks for all the advice. Actually my mechanic is a foreign car expert and old volvos and bmws are numerous in his garage. He hasn't gotten around to my car yet.

You all have asked good questions. Here are more details if they help. It was cold yesterday here. It was about 25 degrees. The car pulled out of the driveway fine but simply would not go up a hill until I revved it up. When I took my foot off the accelerator, nothing happened. It didn't die or move forward. The gas tank is 2/3 full. Thanks again for the advice.

It sounds like ATF fluid pressure isn't getting to the right actuators to engage the internal clutches. 90% chance that this is simply due to low fluid level. 5% chance, clogged passegeways or a Valve Body problem (sticking valve). 5% chance of some other issue.

Before starting the vehicle again, pull the tranny dipstick (Yellow handle at the back of the engine bay, has a clip on the base of the yellow part to keep it from popping out). The fluid should be significantly above the full mark if the engine is off. If it's not, add fluid to at least get it up to the full mark, then drive for awhile to warm it up. After a good 20 minute drive, stop the car, work the shifter slowly through down and up a couple times (Park->Reverse->Neutral->Drive->2->1, and back up). Wait 1 to 2 minutes with the engine idling in Park, and then re-check the fluid (with the car still running in Park). Add as much fluid as you need to get it up to the top of the "Hot" marks. The distance between the LOW and FULL marks on the stick should be about 0.5 quarts. Wait a minute or so after adding fluid before checking it, and check several times. Some of the ATF fluid has a tendancy to stick to the inside edges of the tube and give a 'false' reading when re-inserting the dipstick. Your transmission requires DexronIII or Dexron IV, it doesn't matter, and I would advise taking 3 quarts along with you. (you'll probably need at least 2 of them)

If you can, go over and do this before your mechanic looks at the car. I'm betting that you can solve the problem before he has a chance to do something that you'll get billed for.

There's also a quick way to check for proper fluid level in a stone cold transmission (vehicle not started yet). Read the following post:
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=647879

God bless,
Fitz Fitzgerald.
--
'87 Blue 245, NA 230K

be careful of revving it like that. if it engages too harshly, your differential may give out. once due to my own stupidity i neutral dropped in at 4000+ rpm and blew out my differential.

thankfully the tranny was ok, but it was bad enough for me to learn never to do that again.

need some more details about your problem. when you say 'it doesn't move', what happens if you leave it alone without gas? does it stall out?

when you step on the gas, does the engine rev up, or it doesn't react at all?
--
Kenric Tam
1990 Volvo 740 base sedan (B230F)
My Volvo 'Project'

Any chance that you're fuel tank is about 1/2 full or less (maybe 1/3 full)?

I had this exact same symptoms -- fine on level ground with lots of power, but couldn't climb a hill. But, it was only when the fuel level dropped to a certain point! See what you're fuel gauge says right now!

What it turned out to be was the small hose inside the fuel tank. It connects the pre-pump (in-tank pump) to the metal fuel line. It's only about 2" long, but it cracks eventually. When the fuel level is over this hose, no problem. But when the fuel level drops below this hose, if it's cracked, fuel doesn't flow well into the main pump, and it feels like you've lost power!

It's the hill -- when you were going uphill, the fuel in the tank shifted and uncovers the hose!

To confirm, fill up your fuel tank (it's strictly an internal leak -- this won't cause a loss of fuel as the fuel is just staying within the tank). If the symptoms disappear, you've got your proof. Have the fuel level sender pulled, change the little rubber hose (and change the pre-pump and it's "sock" strainer too, as preventive maintenance). All will be good again.

Good luck.

I forgot to add....

I'll bet your mechanic isn't a Volvo-specialist, right?

First, he didn't recognize this absolutely 'classic' set of symtoms.

Second, he was convincing you that your car, with only 185,000 miles, was worn out. Heck, I bought one of my favorite Volvos when it had 185,000 miles.

I'd look around for someone else to care for your car -- even if he agreed to work on your car, he'd probably have started tearing into your transmission, rather than make the right (and immensely cheaper) diagnosis.

Or, was he offering to buy your car (for a song)?

Anyway, do that simple test (fill up your fuel tank) and see if I'm right.
Regards,