Volvo RWD 444-544 Forum

INDEX FOR 1/2026(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 6/2002 444-544 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Cracked Block 444-544

This is a follow-up on my post of late December on a P444 restoration project. My titling problems are solved and your comments on the B16 versus B18 were a big help. I decided to buy the 1965 544 parts car to see if I could use the running gear, grille, hood, etc. to change the 444 from B16 to B18. The 544 had a locked up engine but I bought it anyway bacause of other parts. I now have the B18 apart. It had thrown the #4 rod which broke off the oil pump. Took parts to local engine shop. I watched as they did some quick checks and came up with the following:

The crank is straight, the mains show virtually no wear and the journal which threw rod is just slightly out of round - easy to regrind, they say.

They recommend replacing the cam and lifters - some corrosion/wear.

The cylinder bores show only a little taper/out of round - if pistons check out OK, could probably just re-ring or, if I prefer, rebore.

Head looks OK, but they want to disassemble and check for warpage or cracks.

So far, I feeling OK. But they suspected a crack in block where the rod had jammed. They cleaned things up a little and using a magnet and dusting what looked like powdered metal, found a crack in the lower right part of the block. It is shaped like a "Y", maybe two or three inches long. The shop did not seem that concerned. They suggested stop-drilling at crack ends, installing what I take to be basically screws, grinding them off and treating the area with epoxy. They said that the block at this location is basically a big oil container and not subject to much stress. I suggested welding but they prefer this approach. Of course, an alternative is to go find a better B18 "core" engine and start over.

The shop suggests that they 1) thoroughly strip and clean the block to check for further damage, measure more carefully, etc.; 2) if block is OK, that they do the same for head and 3) if that is OK that they magnaflux the crank (my impression is that they consider this a low priority - they don't seem to expect a problem here). Then, based on that work, make a plan for rebuilding.

I have left the parts with them but it will be a week or so before they do any work (spend $). In the meantime, I would appreciate your thoughts about the cracked block repair suggestion. Does it make sense to you? If not, what should I expect to pay for a b18 "core" (one that isn't locked up).

Keith W.








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Cracked Block 444-544

I agree that you should go for a B20 if you are going to have that work done. If you want a B18, I've got one with a sound block and crank you can have for free, but I'm in Maine, which may be a bit out of your way. BTW, if anyone else is interested, come and get it.
Bob S.








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

New engine available pretty cheap... 444-544

This may save you a lot of hassle...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2453370612&category=33615








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

New engine available pretty cheap... 444-544

Good find!

That might be a good deal - if the seller can prove that it really has been rebuilt. The rocker assembly certainly isn't among the parts that were replaced with new parts, let alone cleaned... I'd bet a used head was mounted onto the block, as the head itself looks to be dirty also. This isn't necessarily a problem, but wouldn't qualify (in my mind) as a rebuilt engine. The fan's bent. How can the seller tell that there's rust on the cam? If it's rusty, it should be replaced..

$199 is a good deal even if the head isn't refurbed. If it's really been rebuilt.

Best,

Cameron
Rose City








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Cracked Block 444-544

Keith, the crack repair method is called irontite, a series of tapered cast iron or alum plugs. They are installed at intervals and when the crack is covered worked back in the intervals so that they are lockstitched, a sealant is used and plugs are screwed in till they snap off and peaned and ground. An insert can then be fitted if it was in the combustion chamber and had cracked seat. A very successful method with right operator, but really only used these days on hard to find components. Get a good b20 like the guys say and you wont be having nightmares about repaired cracks going wrong.








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Cracked Block 444-544

Just get a decent B20 junkyard motor that hasn't suffered a thrown rod.








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

Cracked Block 444-544

I agree 100% with McDuck. Don't know where you are but B18 and better B20
engines are certainly NOT rare and could probably be had for less than you
are going into on this engine, maybe free or near-free if you happen to be
in the right place at the right time.

Where are you?
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Oklahoma, Central US








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Cracked Block 444-544

It sounds like the shop has a pretty good handle on things.
A B18/20 block shouldn't be too expensive; I've got one in my back yard you can have for free; maybe someone close to you who's on this BB can help.
--
Jim McDonald







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.