Hey everybody

Here's the story with my 240...

I replaced the distributor cap and rotor with new Bosch parts. Started right up and idled fine (ran for a few minutes before going out on the road). I then drove it three blocks. It shifted into second and when it was about to shift into third, it completely died. It would crank, but not catch. Well, I quickly drained the old battery that was in there and decided to spend some more time attempting to start it. So I took the good one from my Honda (which origianally came from the Volvo) and put it in the Volvo (his name is James). I then put the old distibutor cap and rotor back on and guess what? It started as if there had never been any problem!
So I then decided to take out the Honda's battery and put in the older battery to get it charged up again. I left it running. I took off the - and + cables and it died out. I couldn't figure this out. My 82 240 ran fine without the battery attatched. So I was going to reattatch the cables and start it up. No problem, right? Well, I had left the ignition in the run position (because that's where it had cut out on me just a second ago)--didn't even think to put it to "off." So I replaced the + cable and saw a good sized spark. I replaced the - cable and there was no spark. It would not start after this. There are no blown fuses. The fuel pump still runs, the car still cranks, but there's no life left in James. I don't think it's a problem with the fuel system, could I have fried the ECM or some relay somewhere?

James hit a deer last fall. He needs a new hood, grill, and a L corner light. He has 184,000 miles and ran like a top before this incident. I wa actually on the way to the shop to have an estimate done for the repair on the hood. James is black, with a tan interior, sunroof, all the power options, new tires, etc. Really nice car.

What's the problem? Is it worth fixing? Do any of you want a 240? I live in Duluth, MN.

Any help would be appreciated.

Tahnks,

Jorn

Glad you got running again. In the future you might want to refrain disconnecting the battery while a car is running or with key on and not running. This is a really bad practice and you will fry something one of these days by doing this. You are lucky that you didn't toast some really expensive parts or have the battery explode. Batteries put of hydrogen gas at times and all it takes is a small spark to set one off. It is not a pretty sight and could easily kill you. Later,rcs

Thanks everybody for your help...

It turned out to be that the rotor was not seated properly. It runs great. Now it's just a matter of finding good, cheap repair parts after hitting that deer..

Thanks again!

Original problem-
I have seen this a couple times for two reasons I can think of.
1) The rotor didn't seat on the shaft completely. The shafts are a VERY tight fit, and sometimes you need to tap the rotor down all the way. If it's up too high, it damaged the carbon button in the cap, or possibly made the cap impossible to latch correctly, so it came unlatched.
2) the coil wire hole (center) on the cap is made wrong. There's too much plastic in the mold, and it prevents the coil wire from making good contact down inside the cap socket. Scraping excess with a small knife fixes it, or bending the brass contact on the coil wire open a bit, or replacing the cap, again. Should be a Bosch 03010- make sure it's the right thing. MAke certain ALL the wires are seated fully.

New problem-
check the 25A fuse in the white fuseholder behind the battery, under the hood, driver's side of car. These fuseholders get crusty and corroded- they're $3.00 from the dealer or a Brickboard advertiser. You might have popped it- the fuse should have a visible "S" of metal in the middle of it in case you're not familiar with these.
See if you have spark. I take the coil wire off the cap and tuck it in by the left hood hinge. Don't let the end touch metal, but maintain a small air gap when you place it there. Don't touch it- turn the engine over. You ought to get immediate strong blue sparks from it.
If no spark, you've possibly got a bad crank sensor (aka rpm sensor). This is the trigger to the ignition system and fuel computer. No impulse from this, no spark and no fuel.
If the spark is good, look for the simplest fuel system problem- the fuel pump relay under the right side of the dash. It's a white relay, about 1X2 inches, and has # 3523608 on it, along with a date code. Replace it or open it up and resolder all connections inside.
Good luck!
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 225K, 88 744GLE- 209K, 91 244 183K. Also responsible for the care and feeding of: 88 745GLE, 229K, 88 244GL, 146K, 87 244DL, 235K, 88 245DL, 236K

Also try to disconnect the negative cable and wait a few seconds then re-attach it this may reset the computer. Then try to start it again.These computers are pretty tough but you never know. Good luck!

You may have fried your computer. Junkyards charge 25-50 for a replacement.

You say no fuses are blown. On my '89 244 there is a fuse next to the fender by the battery. I presume you include that one since it's the first think i thought of.

Andy in St. Paul.