I've had an ongoing problem with an '89 volvo 740 8 valve non turbo.
It starts and idles fine in cold weather but after it warms up.. intermittantly, it starts and bogs as if starved for fuel. I had some spare parts of another car. I tried replacing the ignition module, knock sensor,
AMM, and the ECU. I have checked the charging system for high ripple - is ok.
The o2 sensor is after market (1 year old) and there is a new Fuel pressure regulator. Plugs are new platinum (good colour) wires test good and no apparent problems with the distributor cap or rotor.

It appears more in warm weather. Also, when I reset the code in the computer it acts up badly , then begins to work fine. at the worst You can hold the accelerator to the floor and it will not exceed 3000 rpm ...back off and it idles fine.

Another problem ...I think is related is the fact it blips the throttle on deceleration at 1400 rpm Since the AMM and the temperature sensor are governing this... I am going to try a new temp sensor. I haven't been able to find much on what signal is sent top the EZK ignition computer or what it does with the signal. advance /retard likely

these codes point to oxygen sensor?!!!
have had same symptoms with faulty AMM. with faulty coolant temp. sensor engine must run great at full load, but will shut down at idle. had that with LH 2.2 FI. extra fuel will increase engine oil level.
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i prefer non-german cars

I've finally found the problem and what threw me was the age of the aftermarket KEM (WWW.kemproducts.com) o2 sensor that I put in the car. It was 6 months old and began acting up.

The symptoms were that it would work fine in cold and extreme cold but would bog intermittently after it warmed up. (idle was also lumpy)(Codes produced:221 231 113) Then, all of a sudden, it would work fine. It seemed that when the car was turned off , left for 5 minutes, it would bog for 5 minutes after start up. When I say bog, I mean, that you could hold the gas to the floor and it would not exceed 3000 rpm. It was particularly pronounced after I reset the computer codes by pulling the negative battery terminal. Gas mileage also suffered (about a 20% decrease)

I checked the O2 sensor and the heater was reading 2 meg (million) ohm instead of the 5 ohm specification. There was some function from the sensor but it was reading 1.3 volts (not the .1 - .9 volt according to specification.

As near as I can tell, the car was trying to get into closed loop mode but failing and then after the 5 minute period would go back into open loop mode and fluctuate back and forth as the sensor warmed up... (but in and out of spec)

The car worked well after pulling the heater plug from the o2 sensor ( the passenger side firewall)
I have done some research into replacement O2 sensors and there is a compatable O2 for a 1989 Taurus 4 cylinder Bosch product number 13953. I am going to try this because it is $67 from canadian tire and the volvo part is $260.00. Bosch also makes a generic replacement O2, part number 15725 with a sealed connector for about $110 Canadian ( you can quote bosch part number and they can find it)
Regardless of this problem (an agravation at best) Volvo rules in relaibility 335000 km and still solid (the last 130000 cost less than $500 in parts)

Have you checked carefully for vacuum leaks in the intake system, including the manifold gasket?

Thank you for the reply.I will put it in the air this weekend and try to find a vacuum leak. The car works well most of the time and extremely well in the extreme cold. This an anoyance but I don't like ignoring the problem.

I sprayed throttle body cleaner around the intake and any vacuum lines I could trace but there was no increase in Rpm