I went to go out this morning in my 1993 960 wagon, started fine, but the shift indicator light on the dash is flashing off and on, and the shift selector switch lights are flashing off and on. Any suggestions, the car seems to be locked in winter mode, but besides that it is running fine. It is about -9 deg. C. here. I did drive it downtown and out to the lumber store, about a 10 minute trip, no change.

anderson,i appreciate your diligence in getting your point across.i didn't realize it could come apart and just be cleaned.i've taken apart plenty of bmw & volvo relays and the like.i have no problem saving a few bucks.the most common response is to have it replaced.in my own mind i would locate one and if in fact the switch is beyond repairing you know where to go to get one.
--
83 242 DL -127k, 92-965-189k, 94-965-200k, 83-242 GLT-Gone, but not forgotten,83-245GLT-1'st one (the 1'st 3 currently on the road)

I'm assuming the folks on the board are DIYs and like saving money when they can. I wouldn't rebuild one for a customer--new is not a lot more expensive than paying labor for a rebuild. For my own car or an understanding friend or really broke, good customer, I'd do it with the understanding that it might not be as good as new.

(In this case, I think the switch wasn't greased enough to keep the contacts free of moisture and more grease at the rebuild may actually allow it to be better than new. Ask me in another 10 years--I'll still have the 960, unless I can't get the leak in the block welded up soon....)

I gotta keep saying this although it's not the common wisdom: The switch is really easy to take apart, clean, grease, and reassemble. The contacts don't get bad, they just get dirty. Use a silicone grease or point lube. Something that will keep water off the contacts and not melt in the heat under the car. You don't need to spend $100 if you want to spend another 30 min repairing the switch. Mine has been trouble-free for several years after such a rebuild.

I agree with anderson, the switch is very easy to take apart, clean and re-grease.

I now ALWAYS use "L" at least once a day to see if I can increase the longevity of the PNP sensor. At least that's my theory after taking them apart.

DEWFPO
--
1998 S90 066,800 and 1995 964 150,200

DEWFPO is correct about the PNP switch being bad. It tends to go bad when it is cold out. The "ratchet" solution that he mentions can work to give you some extra time before replacing the switch, so do try it. But you will have to replace it sooner or later, and probably sooner. Also, when the switch malfunctions it can cause a no start condition. Check out the section on pnp switch replacement in the FAQs at http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/TransmissionAutoAW30.htm#960AW3040GearPositionSensorSwitchReplacement

Mike Brown
Greenville, NC
1996 965 105K
1986 244 137K

--
Mike Brown Greenville, NC 1996 965 94K 1986 244 137K

Classic transmission PNP (park/neutral position) Sensor going bad.

A sometimes temporary fix is to ratchet the shifter back and forth between P and 1, 15-20 times with the engine off to clean the contacts on the sensor.

The sensor will need to be replaced eventually. Part costs ~$100 if you do the work yourself.

DEWFPO
--
1998 S90 066,800 and 1995 964 150,200

Well it looks like the Volvo gods are playing around again. I took the 960 out to the lumber yard and when I got in to get go home the lights were not flashing and it ran great. I will start looking around for a for a new switch, hopefully it will be okay until the spring so I can fix it out in the driveway. Thanks

Classic PNP sensor symptoms. Fine one minute, bad the next.... Next time it fails you, you'll know what to do.

I also have detailed instructions that I wrote up after changing out the PNP sensors on our 98 S90 and 95 960. When you get to that point let me know and I'll be happy to send you a copy.

DEWFPO
--
1998 S90 066,800 and 1995 964 150,200