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1987 740 GLE stalling 700 1987

I am having a stalling problem with my (new to me) 1987 740GLE (153,000miles):
1- Engine will not start after being shut down for a short while. Sometimes the engine has not reached full operating temperature sometimes it happens after engine has been driven during the day without any problem.
2- Engine will stall at low speed when taking off after stopping for a stop sign or a traffic light.
3- Engine idle speed will increase from normal up to 1600+ rpm while waiting for traffic light to change. This happens about 50% of the time.
My mechanic thought the connector at the Radio Suppression relay was not making good contact and "fixed" that but apparently the problem has not been diagnosed yet.
Since buying the car I have replaced the fuel filter, air filter, changed the oil/filter, replaced the distributor cap and rotor, ignition wires, spark plugs, flushed the coolant and installed a new thermostat. The fuel pump relay in the console (large white one) is fairly new - I found the old one and the invoice from the dealer in the glove compartment.
I would appreciate your help finding the cause of this problem.
Thanks in advance
Jorge








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1987 740 GLE stalling 700 1987

You are just about to need a new wiring harness. This is probably the only thing that will cure this.
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 225K, 88 744GLE- 209K, 91 244 183K. Also responsible for the care and feeding of: 88 745GLE, 229K, 88 244GL, 146K, 87 244DL, 235K, 88 245DL, 236K








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1987 740 GLE stalling 700 1987

I am in no position to disagree but "a new wiring harness" seems pretty radical.
Could you give me more details as to why you think my car needs a new wiring harness. Is there an inherent flaw with the wiring harnesses in these cars?
This is my first Volvo.
Thanks








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1987 740 GLE stalling 700 1987

read this.

http://216.160.8.21/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalCircuitsRelays.htm#BakedEngineWiring700200Cars








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1987 740 GLE stalling 700 1987

ok, i'll bite. look at the relay the mechanic messed with. any flaking insulation? look at every connection on the motor and the end where it hooks into the harness for the car. if the insulation is hard and firm to the wire inside, not dry and crumbling, the harness should be ok. there are plenty of places to hide damage inside that plastic sleeve. any bare wire that you can see means there is plenty of damage you can't. and that's harness time. if the harness is ok, then more testing is involved. i would, for maintainence sake, replace the radio relay anyways, unless you find a receipt for that 1, too. good luck, chuck.







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