The other day I was driving my daughter's 1988 and noticed that when I would push the accelerator down it would not kick down. Upon looking under the hood I noticed the kick down cable had snapped (end was just sticking out of housing).

In reading the Haynes manual it says that to replace it I have to drop the transmission pan - is this correct? Any idea of how big a job it is to replace this? Can a new section of cable be 'braided' into the existing one?

Also, for a while the shift indicator has been on (indicating the overdrive was not working?) - could this have anything to do with it? If not, I know sometimes the relay right next to the glove box goes bad. Is there a way to check it before replacing or are they cheap enough that I should just start there?

One final question - the car seems to have a thirst for transmission fluid. It is not leaking a whole lot (no puddling on the driveway) - any thoughts?

Many thanks for all the help.

Ted in Albuquerque

"...to replace it I have to drop the transmission pan - is this correct?"

Yep.

"Any idea of how big a job it is to replace this?"

You must drop the exhaust pipe to gain working room. When I did daughter's '86, it took me probably 4-6 hours. I drained the tranny and dropped the pan one day and worked on the tranny the next day. I let the ATF drip out overnight (messy, messy...).

You won't need a second mortgage to buy a new cable from Volvo.

"...the shift indicator has been on (indicating the overdrive was not working?) - could this have anything to do with it?"

Nope. Most likely the OD relay needs to be resoldered ($0) or replaced (about $40). Resolder your fuel pump relay, too, before it leaves your daughter stranded in the middle of nowhere. As with the OD relay, $0, no risk, 15 minutes, clean 'n easy job.

If it helps nothing, you've lost nothing.

"...a thirst for transmission fluid..."

Carefully inspect the cooling lines where they go through the support brackets. Often they'll vibrate under the clamps, chaffing pinholes in the lines. Then they'll leak only when the engine runs.

You can repair this by cutting out the worn section (about 2-3", use a tubing cutter) and patching with a short piece of very high quality, high pressure fuel injection fuel hose. Use aircraft-type clamps. Works great. Then secure the lines to the brackets so they won't vibrate -- I use plastic zip ties for this, and wrap 4-5 layer of electrical tape around the line first.

Also, depending on miles, the rear seal (and rear bushing) of the tranny might be worn. Usually happens around 150-200k miles, more or less.

--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

i have a 3sp auto so this may or may not apply. the kickdown cable will run from the throttle body to the top of the transmission just about where the shift linkage exits through the transmission on the EXHAUST SIDE. if you are considering doing this yourself you will need to remove the exhaust from the flange to the middle bracket (under passengers seat is suspect) which links the rear to the front exhaust system. you will need to get a replacement kickdown cable, i would consider just going to the scrap yard and removing on from a car if you can b/c i suspect they may be pricey new. then it is just a matter of connecting the kickdown cable at both ends and adjusting it per your haynes manual. you will need an o-ring for the kickdown cable attachment at the transmission end.

i think the reason the haynes manual says you have to drop the pan may be b/c they mean you have to drain the oil. to do this just loosen the oil filler tube attachment as it enters the transmission and drain the oil from there. there is no need to completely loosen off the nut, and it will actually prevent you from stripping the thread it you try to put it in after completely removing the nut. the reason for the drain is just so you don't have oil everywhere when you remove the kickdown cable.

about the loss of oil. if there is no visible leak try checking the radiator expansion tank. the oil cooler lines are prone to cracking and the transmission oil can escape into here. let me klnow how you go.

hope i have been of some help.

chez

replace the cable, there is no fixing it.

the od light has nothing to do with the cable, check the relay and fuses, and while you are replacing the cable, check the wiring under the car to the solenoid.

you have to have a leak somewhere. on that trans the only path of escape is out the front, sides or rear. good luck, chuck.

whoops, forgot the trans cooler in the radiator. i would think you'd have seen a cooling problem, too. that pink milkshake that happens when atf and coolant mix doesn't cool well. good luck, chuck.