One more thing you can check. If you can get it to make the noise while idling, then pop the hood and push down with a piece of wood on the heat riser over the exhaust manifold. If the noise changes or stops, there's your problem.

By no means am I suggesting that's it, but I've had several cars brought in with simular complaint and many have been the heat riser either cracked or rust between the bolts and manifold causing noise.

Best of luck

If it is a crackling noise, I would still suspect e.g. the front U-joint. Here is a quick test:

Find a big empty parking lot. Start off with drivers side window down but door closed, press accelerator till you hear noise. Open drivers door about 20-30 degrees. If noise now definitely stronger ("echoes" up against door inside) I bet you it is the U joint. A U joint with dry needle bearings can squeal like a pack of rats, and make all sorts of other funny sounds. And it is not easy to diagnose by just trying the play in the U-joint by hand. That is where the real mechanic outruns us amateurs.

I have had great experience with FCP Groton. In fact, I just had another fantastic bit of service from them. The ScanTech Expansion Tank that I got last May recently developed a small crack. They are sending me a new one even though the Mfg doesn't technically have a warranty to cover it. How's that for stand-up service!

Ben V

91 940SE Wagon

I always get the best service and lowest prices from FCPGroton. If you are concerned with quality of other than OEM parts, email or phone Nick and ask for his advise. He will not steer you wrong. Anyhow, you can tell him you want OEM or Volvo parts and he will still give you the best service and lowest prices. Tell him you come from Brickboard. He sells a lot of parts around these parts.

I"ve done it all with parts from FCP. No problems. Having the timing belt tool makes a major difference. Have some front end seals on hand. Also, you should consider replacing the tensioner too.

Tom