After chasing a noise in the drivetrain all the way back to the differential, I found chewed-up planet gears on my beloved limited-slip differential. Is it practical to rebuild the beast or should I just get a plain old standard diff from the bone yard for $125 and be done with it?
Anyone have any idea how much these things cost to rebuild?
It is in decent shape body wise, about 170K miles, I have owed it since new and this year I have been using it as a winter car so I wouldn't have to get salt on my 04 MINI. It may be time to part with it because here in Mass they don't give any multi car discounts on insurance.
I figure I have to fix it to sell it, it is much to nice to junk or give to charity.
Thanks in advance Steve M.

Hobbit--

I went through this last summer on my 1992 that DOES have ABS. If your car has ABS, you have to find an axle from an ABS car. The ABS uses the impulse wheel from the electronic speedo in the differential--but the ring has a different # of nibs than on the non-ABS cars. Your ABS won't work if you put in a non-ABS axle.

If you also want the rear end ratio to match your current (autos had 3.73 / 1, sticks had 3.31 / 1) you need an axle unit that has the same exact part number that is on the sticker on your current axle housing. Sticker faces to rear, left side, just inboard of the hub. Clean it CAREFULLY, don't use solvents or you might wash off the numbers. Soap and water only.

In fact, I wouldn't take any axle that didn't match your part number--seems to me that when I was collecting information about this on the board, someone posted that there were two different ABS impulse rings (one has 48 nibs, one has 96...)

OTOH--if you go to a Jeep shop for a new gear set, you've got to make sure they speak Volvo ABS. They've got to get the impulse wheel and the pickup installed JUST SO--clearances are critical. If they warp the impulse wheel, it won't work.

Good luck.

Doug Harvey

Get one from a yard: the entire unit may be had for $100-$150.

Mind if I ask how this failed? Leaking pinion seal? Axle bearing seal?

They last forever if you keep them lubed.

I was faced with the same questions a few year back on an 83 240 and elected to change out the complete rear axle assembly. I had a local independent Volvo mechanic do it for $200 includeing the axle assembly. He had a "parts car" in his back lot with a good rear end. I made sure the replacement had the same gear ratio by checking the label located on the driver's side axle housing. I did have to go back a couple of years later and change out the trailing arm bushings but I did that myself for < $50 including the pipe fittings and all- thread rod to make a removal/installation tool. The original gears overheated and started "humming" because of a very slow seal leak where the drive shaft enters the diff. housing. I never checked the fluid level until it was too late. I guess $200 is a cheap lesson in this day and age!

Its should be a common Dana differential similiar to whats used in Jeeps. Probably under $400 to fix. Is the car an automatic or manual? I live in RI and might be interested if you want to sell it.
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1990 240 Sdn 277K,tach,strut brace,turbo sway 1990 240 Wgn M47II 157K,tach,strut brace,poly bushings,IPD sways

I can't be much help in the LSD dept., sorry. But if you decide to use an open diff, I'd advice you to transplant the complete rear axle from a junker rather than just take the diff. A lot less work.

Erling.
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My 240 Page