Volvo RWD 120-130 Forum

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Alternator Conversion.... 120-130

I'm sure that this has been talked about but I haven't been able to locate it. I wanted to install an Alternator in my 1966 122 and I wasn't sure how the wiring would go. Does anyone have a wiring diagram that I could use for the retro-fit? I am hoping to create a "How to" page on my web site when I've completed it.

Thanks








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Alternator Conversion.... 120-130

Not hard at all.
Get a delco "1 wire" alternator (several in junkyards).
Use the appropriate bracket kit or fabricate your own (really not that big a deal).
Run a heavy lead to the starter solenoid + terminal.
Remove the old harness and regulator.
If you don't like having to rev it to engage the self exciting and want an indicator, jump a wire from your "f" terminal to the indicator light wire to your dash (both indicates and "excites" the alternator at minimum revs).
Really simple.

Mike!








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Alternator Conversion.... 120-130

Dan;

Questions to the Delco conversion/upgrade are covered in detail on the SwEm info page as noted by "flg" (and thanks for the recommendation!). I have also tried to link to a lot of the Brickboard discussion threads on the subject.

IPD has a kit for the OE Bosch alt., if you're so inclined.

Jim Heckers RHD solution is nice and clean (my compliments), but without a good reason, probably not that interesting for our LHD hemisphere...although it does locate the electrics ABOVE the fuel, as opposed to below the fuel containing pieces on the other side...and there's certainly something to be said for that...I'm sure anyone who has ever seen their SUs pi****g fuel all over their electrics will agree!

Cheers








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Alternator Conversion.... 120-130

I have one reason only to suggest that it is good to put the alternator on the LH side of the block, Phil. More so, perhaps for the 140 than the 120, but nonetheless...

Moving the alternator allows for a rewire that is MUCH better than original. I did not (yet) move the alternator on my 140, but here's why I should:

The physical wiring path on a 140 (and perhaps a 122) is downright STUPID. The alternator output crosses the radiator support to a junction block. From there, it goes to the battery. The battery main lead goes to the starter.

I rewired my 142 to emulate a 240. The main output of the alternator (I used 6 ga) crosses under the crank (a la 240) and goes to the starter. The main starter terminal acts as a junction block (a la 240). This way, the alternator feeds the battery more directly for charging purposes, instead of the original circuitous route.

BUT... this still leaves the main alternator feed running under the crank - and we all know how bad that can be! I was anally overprotective of my lead, to hopefully prevent any problems.

BUT... if I were to relocate my alternator to the LH side of the block, the wiring legnths would be shorter, more direct, and away from any hazards. This is mainly because the 140 locates the battery on the LH side of the block.

The 122, perhaps not as much. I'm not certain how the physical wiring of alternator-battery-starter wiring runs on a 122, but regardless, moving the alternator keeps all the high-amperage wiring away from the hot exhaust manifold.

So while it may not be AS MUCH of an improvement on a 122 as a 140, I still contend that there are enough advantages to at least consider relocating the alternator.

Evan








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Alternator Conversion.... 120-130

I can only comment on the 122 and I was quite happy to get the alternator and wiring away from the hot exhaust/manifold area. All I did was relocating the original wiring onto the other inside fender and reconnected it, no rewiring necessary, very simple.

Talking about electrical systems....... we are having a storm right now in New Zealand, no power and I'm typing this, in the dark, on my laptop, with a candle to find the keys.... this is fun ! New Zealand Summer as never seen before.

Jim








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Alternator Conversion.... 120-130

My Amazon had a standard 240W generator (dynamo) with external voltage regulator mounted on the RH wing. I got a 55A (770W) Bosch k1>14V55A20 alternator out of a fuel injected 1982, 244GLE from a wrecker for NZ$50. The mounting of that alternator is quite different from the earlier models so I had to make up a special adjustable bracket for it. Details on my web site

http://volvoadventures.com/amazon2.html

Although the alternator has two pulleys, only one belt is used. Electrical connections were straight forward, the 2 wires that were connected to the old regulator are now connected to the built-in regulator on the alternator.

My car is a right hand drive car, we are driving on the wrong side of the road.

Jim









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Alternator Conversion.... 120-130

Why not look at:

http://www.intelab.com/swem/altkit.htm ?

There's a kit for the conversion and wiring info







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