I've gotten so much conflicting information that I have to ask this question again. Sorry for the repetition. What are the steering box specs for a '66 1800? I think the ratio is different than the 122 box. I also think the shaft from the box to the flex coupling is longer on the 1800 setup. Could anyone shed some light on this? Specific steering box part numbers would be invaluable. Thanks in advance for the assistance.
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Roy Olson

Roy,

All I can tell you is what I have on our '66 122S and '67 1800S (presumably the same as a '66), far as I can make out the stamped numbers:

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122S
Manufacturer: Svenska Flygmotor under license from ZF
Type: 250108

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1800S
Manufacturer: ZF
Type: 731855101

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Length of shaft from box to beginning of splines for the steering coupler is 14" for both. The fitting for the coupler is different (and I know the 122 coupler changed to yet another style by the '68 model year). I don't have the numbers handy, but I know the 1800 box has a quicker ratio.

Would the boxes interchange physically? Looks that way, if you changed the coupler fitting and didn't mind a change of gear ratio.

I've always wondered if there was an easy way of getting a qucker steering ratio, (i can't find a smaller diameter steering wheel... not that i've been looking that hard...) Is it possible to use a 1800's steering box in a 140? Is there a way somehow? Whether it be from an early or later e/es? Thanks
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Kyle - attending Ore. State, while my lil 68 142 (74 b20, broken m40) sleeps... (check out my website, www.cardomain.com/id/kneedsacar

Hi Phil,
Thanks for the help and P/Ns. I know that the coupling is different and I have the correct 1800 coupling on my car but there is a significant gap that I can't account for so maybe your comment that the fittings are different is a clue. The boxes are the same as far as mounting to frame and Pitman arm are concerned. Can you shed some light on the fittings for me? Thanks.
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Roy Olson

Roy,

It's dark and raining now or I'd go look, but if memory serves the 1800 coupler is about 3/4" thick rubber. There are hex-drive cap screws with heads down in the rubber in metal sleeves, two fore-aft, two 90 degrees out aft-fore, threads sticking out. Nuts and washers secure these to yokes clamped onto the splined steering shafts on both sides. On mine, the spacing of the shafts is such that the bushing is under slight tension -- it's pulling the shafts together, not keeping them apart -- but there is very little distortion of the rubber.

The earlier-style 122 coupling is only 1/4" thick, and is a rubber/fiber material that looks like it's made of old door mats. Regular bolts go through it, bolt heads contacting the yokes through washers. The bolts are spaced slightly wider apart -- you couldn't interchange yokes and couplers from one system to the other.

There's enough play in the three bolt holes that hold the steering box on for some vertical angular adjustment to be possible, but not enough to move the whole box significantly in the horizontal axis. I haven't played around enough to see if the steering wheel and that end of the shaft is adjustable in that direction.

Hope this helps,

--Phil

Again, Phil, thanks for the reply. I do have the correct coupling on my car so the problem seems to be with the yokes. I never imagined that they would be different from 122 to 1800 but I would bet that they are. I'll have to do some research on this and any light you can shed on it would be appreciated. Thanks very much for your help.
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Roy Olson

Thanks once again, Phil. Problem solved. Obviously my car was "modified" by a former owner.
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Roy Olson