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So the girlfriends 240 wouldn't start when it was really cold. (-10F) and then it got to be about 25F and I tried to start it and it hesitated but started and idled just fine.
I got it into the driveway and i pulled a plug and it's gap was twice what it should be. Fair enough... Good time to replace ignition parts. (bought the car last summer/8k miles ago and owner said he just replaced the stuff...liar!) The cap and rotor had some corrosion as well.
I replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, and wires. Started it up and drove it around the block. Felt like there was a miss and a knock. I probablly bumped the timing off right! I'll wait for my timing light to get returned to me.
Meantime today I started it and it runs with a serious miss and the motor rocks back and forth pretty good. I loosened the distributor to see if i could get the timing in a better spot. Well...turning it doesn't seem to effect the poor running at all!? Still runs like poo.
Now I tried to start it and it won't start at all!! Could I have gotten some bad plug wires?? The cap and rotor are making good contacts...
I also checked the diagnostics and no codes come up.
Pulling my hair out here! This car man...
-Chad
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This is remote, but - years ago on my '88, I replaced the cap and rotor with non-Bosch parts (black color - no idea what brand) because that's what the local parts house had. Instant NO START. Threw my old Bosch stuff on, and it fired right up.
SImple things to check - make sure the ends are pressed fully into the dist. cap, and also into the coil. Make sure you didn't knock the 12v lead off the coil, too.
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posted by
someone claiming to be jorn
on
Sat Feb 28 05:11 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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Here's one that has not been mentioned yet: Check the spring loaded carbon contact in the centre of the cap. I once had that one stuck all pushed in on a new cap causing big gap and poor spark.
Quick to check. Cheap to fix.
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Chad,
1) I agree w/ Chuck-Porkface (I can't think of a time he was ever wrong) so go over everything again from cap, rotor, plug wires at the cap to its corresponding place at the plug... if you reinstall the old shit does it run?
2) Are you sure that the firing order is correct and how do you know this? Tell me, what is the Volvo 4cyl firing order? And, where is number one?
3) Check the air box. Is the flap closed in those cold temps like it is supposed to be? Maybe the thermostat is shot in the air box. Maybe you put a hole in the bellows. Sure there are no codes? It should have given you something -even if it is clean a 1-1-1 will show.
4) Do you have a service manual?
5) How & why did you loosen and TURN the distributor? I find that fascinating!
6) Are the fuel pumps working? Fuel pressure regulator vaccum line smell like gas?
7) Did you create a massive vaccum leak somewhere in your fiddling?
8) **** This is for the Volvo Gods: could the crank positon sensor be on its way out or damaged some way? ****
9) Did you screw with the throtle body?
10) Fuses? Fuel pump relay?
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Chad,
1) I agree w/ Chuck-Porkface (I can't think of a time he was ever wrong) so go over everything again from cap, rotor, plug wires at the cap to its corresponding place at the plug... if you reinstall the old shit does it run?
2) Are you sure that the firing order is correct and how do you know this? Tell me, what is the Volvo 4cyl firing order? And, where is number one?
3) Check the air box. Is the flap close in those cold temps like it is supposed to be? Maybe the thermostat is shot in the air box. Maybe you put a hole in the bellows. Sure there are no codes? It should have given you something -even if it is clean a 1-1-1 will show.
4) Do you have a service manual?
5) How & why did you loosen and TURN the distributor? I find that fascinating!
6) Are the fuel pumps working? Fuel pressure regulator vaccum line smell like gas?
7) Did you create a massive vaccum leak somewhere in your fiddling?
8) **** This is for the Volvo Gods: could the crank positon sensor be on its way out or damaged some way? ****
9) Did you screw with the throtle body?
10) Fuses? Fuel pump relay?
10)
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posted by
someone claiming to be Canuk
on
Fri Feb 27 14:44 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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You said -10 when problems started, just a thought but how old is your timing belt as you could have shorn off a tooth, just a thought.....
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Check the Fuel Pump Relay.
Resolder it, as Don Foster would say.
--
If you listen to the radio in Portland, OR, you may know me as 'Portland's Favorite Soul Brother!'
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The 92 has the 2.4 system. You don't set the timing, the ECU does that for you. If you have the cap and plug wire back in place correctly, and you are getting spark, then confirm you are gettin fuel. Comon problem, check the fuse behind the battery, 25 amp. If there isn't one there, don't worry. In 91 or 92 they eleminated the external F/I fuse. Another is the F/I relay next to the ECU, the soldering can go bad inb these. Also the F/I system fues in the left side kick panel. Number 4 and Six I think. MAke sure you have fuel pressure.
ANother thing to check is the OBD-1, though not a steller unit, it can give you some direction. Check the codes and see what it has to say.
Let us know what you have.
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Make sure your distributor cap is on correctly, not 180 degrees off. No, it won't affect your timing... The cap is designed to fit properly only one way and each side where the latch attaches to is different. If it's on wrong the cap will have a slight tilt to it which will affect the how the rotor comes in contact with the center and outer poles. I've done this before, the car did run but there was lots of arcing going on (carbon build up).
Is your car a manual tranny? Have you had your rear engine seals replaced somewhat recently? These may be strange questions that I'm asking considering you only changed your plugs/wires/cap/rotor. If your flywheel has been taken off at some point there may be some connection. (it's a long shot...but worth asking)
Bean
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'80 242GT 92k, '94 945T 123k
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Good suggestions but it is on correctly. It also is an auto.
Thanks alot,
Chad
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timing is not adjustable on the 89 and later cars. there's a hash mark on the dist housing. put the crank on 0 and check the mark on the cam pulley. if those 2 line up, line up the dist housing mark to the rotor and bolt it down. check the firing order from there, clockwise 1 3 4 2. good luck chuck.
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Ok, so i put the distributor back in place. Checked firing order for the 3rd time. It still won't start. hrm....
Any other ideas?
-Chad
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I also pulled a plug wire off and measured the resistance. It was 9.2k ohm. What should it be?
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88 and later wires should not have resistors on the wires. ngk or bosch resistor plugs, no platinums, bosch cap and rotor, oe or bougicord wires. anything else may hurt you later, if not now. if the car ran before the stuff was installed, i'm betting something's wrong with the installation-no offense.
did the timing belt slip? how many miles on the car?
turn the key, don't crank-fuel pump run for 1 or 2 seconds?
crank the car-fuel pump run? does the car have spark while cranking? good luck, chuck.
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I think you may have something here. So the 92 wires should not have resistance in them? I am getting over 9 kohms in the wires i put in. If the 89+ wires are different, it is very possible that napa gave me the wrong ones. Are you positive on this? Is there damage that could have been done because of this larger "load" on the ignition system?
Funny you should mention the fuel pump relay. I just put a new one in because of a no start. Car has 120k on it and the timing belt was replaced before we got the car because it jumped off on the previous owner. I checked the timing belt placement when I put the distributor back in place. (I am used to working on 2.3T merkurs and 2.0T 16V saabs and you spin those distributors to adjust the timing) I am also referencing a bentley manual.
Thanks,
Chad
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if you are running non resistor plugs, then the wires might be ok. look on the metal shells, the resistance should be on them. i thought it was 5k. i used to work for napa and went round and round with the belden rep about volvo wires. they like using 90 degree ends at the dist for the 240. that's why i said oe or bougicord wires. volvo went to non-resistor wires and resistor plugs on all cars in 88. if my 76 went to the dealer, it would've gotten the new stuff instead of the resistor wires volvo had for years. everyone else's don't seem to do the job. you mention possible damage, i doubt it. do you have spark? are you sure the car's set up right? did the balancer slip, like a saab? with the new relay, did the fuel pump do what i said? good luck, chuck.
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This could be a dumb question...but are you sure you have the cylinders firing in the right order? I have done it wrong before, as I’m sure most people have as well.
What plugs are you using? Platinum’s suck for Volvo's.
ryan
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VOLVO LOVER WITH AN 80 AND AN 82
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Yeah, I checked the firing order. Yeah, agreed about the platinum plugs! I put in bosch copper plugs.
-Chad
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It's going to turn into a hairy situation trying to figure this one out. I would start by doing what chuck (i.e. porkface) is telling you to do...that guy is a genius. Follow some of his other threads, he knows his stuff. Sorry I can’t help you more. It can be difficult to troubleshoot something like this without actually being there in person. It does sound like you timing is off, maybe you did rotate the rotor when you installed the new one, its unlikely but stranger things have happen.
good luck, let us now the outcome.
Ryan
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VOLVO LOVER WITH AN 80 AND AN 82
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