Anyone here have keyless remote added to a 940? Our 1993 940 has power door locks. An auto accesories place here says they have done it before and will charge $200 for the job.

been there..done that including removing existing POS alarm system...

if your doing it yourself and making real neat job its a days work...

seethe faq for the basics...but i have a wrinkle...

you need to install a remote activator to the drivers door (solanoid to lock/unlock the door) splice this into the wiring loom for the REAR activator at the drivers door a pillar...

now wire the negative pulse wires for lock unlock fro mteh alarm into thereturns from the key switch in the drivers door (also tapped into at teh post by the drivers door...

now install the rest as per the units instructions...

and your done...

mine is a little more sophisticated in that the unti o chose has two level radar cloaking (car beeps as you approach it to warn it is protected and you can leave windows etc open..and the alrm only goes off once someone sticks their arm in..) I also have blue flashing LED's embedded in the door tops next to the door lock buttons...as well as a red flashing one abovethe steering wheel)...yes i am paranoid....

For info on this job

Click Here

Colin.

1990 740SE B200E/M47, remote C/Locking.

Dear Colin,

Good a.m. and may this find you well. I, too, am curious about installing a remoter operation capability to a central locking system. However, having taken the "click here" advice, I'm no wiser than before. The advice there seems to be aimed at putting power locks, into a vehicle that did not come equipped with them.

To know how to install a remote activation device, I think I need to know:
(a) how to identify the remote activation system receiver on, say, a car found in a salvage yard (what is the location, colour, and part number of this receiver)?
(b) where to install the receiver, for the remote activation system, if different from where it is found on a salvage vehicle?
(c) are remote activation receivers interchangeable between 740s, 940s, & 960s?
(d) where to draw power for the remote activation system receiver?
(e) where to ground the the remote activation system receiver?
(f) how many wires run from the remote activation system receiver to the driver's door lock motor?
(g) from which specific points on the remote activation system receiver do wires run and to which specific points on the driver's door lock motor do they connect?
(h) are any special connectors or other accessories needed, to make a retro-fitted remote activation system work?
(i) how does one rout the wires from the remote activation receiver to the lock motor?
(j) what specific steps are required, to remove the driver's inside door panel, without breaking plasic fitment, which are likely to be quite fragile?

Thanks for your help. I appreciate it.

Yours faithfully,

spool
(f)

Hi Spook, I can`t comment on the system fitted by Volvo as I fitted an aftermaket Microscan system to my 1990 740.

I think this is virtually the same as your 940 ie door pad fittings etc.
Perhaps somebody who has worked on both will confirm this.

If you would like a detailed instructions (with photos) post again or E-mail me and I`ll write it up (at the weekend when I have more time), and post it here.

Colin.

1990 740SE B200E/M47, remote C/Locking.

Spook:

You have to be one of the most thorough people I have encountered. I am an engineer and have been accused similarly, but you are better. What do you do for a living? If you are a heart surgeon I know where I'll go if I need an operation.

I agree, the FAQ link appears to be for a car w/o power door locks. What I am finding is that if it already has power door locks you basically need two things: an actuator for the drivers door (only the other three doors have one as the drivers door is actually locked manually with the key or by pushing down the lock post - when it does not have keyless remote), and a receiver to receive the fob signal. Then the receiver can send a signal which locks the driver's door, which in turn locks (or unlocks) the other three. The fix will not enable one to unlock the driver's door with one push of the fob, then the others with a second push.

I've decided not to go the junk yard route. I really do not want to buy those parts as they are already 10+ years old and sitting out unprotected in the rain/sun for some time at the yards. I will most likely pay an accessory place $200 to put in new after market stuff. What do you think?

Dear 93-940 & 99-V70,

Good p.m. and may this find you well. Thoroughness is next to G-dliness!

I do not have the honor to be an engineer. I'm an economist, who occasionally turns a wrench. You definitely do not want me to do any form of surgery, even though I'm pretty good with a Sawzall.

Any written repair procedure is intended to help the first-timer. Those, with experience, do not need a written procedure. The first-timer, by definition, does not know how the job is done. Therefore, to get the first-timer to do the job correctly, the steps should be set forth clearly, and no knowledge should be presupposed.

I'd rather provide someone with information that they don't need, then to have them get half-way into a job, and meet with something, about which they had not been briefed. For, if I'd not induced them to start the job, they'd not have a partly disassembled vehicle, and no easy way to put right what needed it.

Volvo Tech manuals presuppose users are full-time, bona-fide technicians. Thus, many steps are left out. The trouble is that experimenting with Volvos can get expensive. Simple plastic trim pieces can cost big bucks. Triggering an airbag deployment - apart from personal injury - can cost $1K or more. I recognize that if Volvo manuals were written they way I'd write them, one would need a garage just to store the manuals.

In short, I appreciate your appreciation of my thoroughness. My model happens to be the engineers, who designed these cars. They are deeply thoughtful persons, and without them, we'd not be nearly as safe.

Yours faithfully,

spook

I looked at this option about 2 yrs ago for my 960 that had the central locking. The local Car Stereo guys wanted about $400 for the keyless option. If you can get it done for $200, do it. By the way, IPD in Oregon has a remote keyless option product for the 240 series for about $250. At the time they were talking about adding a 700/900 series product. You might want to give them a call or check their web site for instructions and details.

I spoke with IPD about two months ago and they said they still did not have a kit developed. He thought it would not be till late this year or early next.

Both Car Toys and Ultimate Electronics quoted me just under $200. Just got the quote from Ultimate today. They mentioned something about all their installers being MEPC (?) certified?