The Grey Mare (’86 240 sedan) needed an oil change. The oil change actually was uneventful.

While I was at it I decided to relocate the flame trap. The relocation of the flame trap was smooth. I extended the length of the hose from the oil trap to the flame trap “Y”. I introduced a PVC coupling. I inserted the smaller, threaded end of the coupling into hose from the oil trap. Then I inserted the flame trap “Y” into the larger ¾” id end of the coupling. I hooked up all the vacuum lines. It looked great and ran great.

I then decided to clean out the oil trap. I removed the vacuum line to the brake booster for more wrist room, unbolted the trap and proceed to scrape and spray it clean with PB Blaster. I blew it out with compressed air and reinstalled the oil trap and the vacuum line to the brake booster. I was on a roll.

So I set about cleaning the engine. I sprayed an orange oil on the engine and was about to rinse when time ran out … my wife and I were going to meet some friends for the evening. I figured I would get to the rinsing the next day. While driving to our friends the car bucked a little now and then. I figured it was from some slop that had been cut by the orange oil.

Well later she died at low speed while braking (not the same night … 3 days later). I couldn’t get it to start. She rotated like all get out but no start. Checked the stinking 25A fuse (sprayed some WD 40 in there), made sure the cam was turning (wanted to rule out broken belt?). Checked for bad vacuum or loose wires at coil, plugs etc….No go …So I towed it home.

I’ve since cleaned the engine and replaced the:
Spark plug wires, (a couple were bad !)
Plugs, (worn and excessively gapped about .042 in)
Cap and rotor (they were worn and pitted)
Coil (it was cracked and dead – primary resistance was infinite)
25 A fuse and new weatherproof holder (I went to check this and it disintegrated – Buss has a neat weatherproof mini fuse holder with cap at Wal-Mart less than $5 with fuses)
Checked the Battery connection and wires (good)

Finding all that wrong, I figured it was a miracle she was running as good as she was and I was afraid that the Old Grey Mare might suffer a heart attack from the fresh jolt of electricity she was soon going to receive.

With anticipation I turned the key! Still rotates and no start!

So,
I checked the coil primary resistance … read 1.7 W
I checked the coil secondary resistance … infinite!
I checked the secondary on my other car (running 245) same readings ??????

Is the coil bad? Is my good car’s coil bad also? (it runs fine)
Am I missing something on checking the secondary resistance?

I’m still sitting in the driveway trying to figure what’s next …. Tomorrow pm I will check for loose distributor and then check for skipped timing belt?

I have a Haynes manual and I am trying to figure what next…Do I proceed down the fuel system path?

Skills? I’ve done tune ups, ATF flush, Tranny mount change, tie rod ends, brake changes, wheel bearings…. When it comes to FI and Electronics … I’m in a whole new territory

Thanks in advance…. I’ll be checking posts until about 4pm… I don’t have internet at home.
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Happy Motoring Miguel '86 244 and '87 245

As Bosozuku suggests, check for spark. If the car has no spark trigger, it won't run fuel pumps either.
A little easier way to test:
Pull the coil wire off the dist cap, and tuck it in by the left hood hinge. It should stay there with the brass end exposed but not touching anything- leave a 1/4 inch or less gap, but at least SOME gap.
Crank the engine- with the wire in this position you can observe it from the driver's door area while you reach in and turn the key.
I suspect no spark. If there IS spark, proceed to check out the fuel system starting with a new fuel pump relay. (Or resolder, whichever works better for you.)
If no spark, as you say you've checked everything- if you can, try to read voltage at the coil. Ought to be essentially 12V (or battery volts -0.5 or so) at the coil terminals with the key on. If no voltage, inspect this troublesome little plug under or near the coil. It's a grey two pin plug and one just wasted a day of my time on a friend's '87 244. I put in a new ignition computer, distributor, wires, coil, and inspected the harness to the ignition computer. Turned out to be this guy, simply not seated enough. I crimped the socket pins a little tighter and seated it fully, now the car runs perfectly and has had no stalling. You might have gotten some of your cleaner in it, or disturbed it during your work. Check it out, it's a simple and free fix. With it disconnected, coil primary voltage is like 0.4V. Like I said, our example was intermittent.
GOOD LUCK!!!
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 225K, 88 744GLE- 209K, 91 244 183K. Also responsible for the care and feeding of: 88 745GLE, 229K, 88 244GL, 146K, 87 244DL, 235K, 88 245DL, 236K

Good advice -

I had a similiar problem and it took me a good long while to figure it out. I had to reclean/crimp the wire from the coil to the tach (don't know the technical name for that connection). The connection *looked* absolutely clean and fine, but a little rubbing with an eraser and some pinching got me back on the road.

Also, there's a cluster of wiring that goes into a computerish thing plug on the passenger side compartment wall under the overflow tank for the radiator. Another time with mystery no-start, I had to clean the connection (male and female parts) and use a small screwdriver to gently pry the female connectors a bit tighter. Apparently, one of them is a ground that often goes bad.

CTvolvo

When you get everything running and reassemble it, use silicone
dielectric grease on any connectors (especially coil/spark plug
high tension leads) that you disconnect. I did this on my car
because of an intermittent miss. Before, when I squirted the engine
with water, the car would die. Now, I can soak the distributor,
coil, and plugs and the car will run on with nary a miss.
.
-b.

Stick a long bolt in one of the spark plug boots at the end of a
wire, and hold the bolt about 1/4-1/8" from the engine block with
insulated pliers and a gloved hand. Have someone crank the engine.
If sparks jump, then you know that you have spark and the problem
is with fuel.
.
-b.

Thanks .. will do

Oh, I did type in "Omega" symbol for ohms on my word processor, it came out W here.
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Happy Motoring Miguel '86 244 and '87 245

As you just replaced the spark plugs, use an old one instead of a bolt.

Btw, you say, "She rotated like all get out but no start." If the engine is spinning fast and there isn't any spark, could be the timing belt.
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans