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20 miles of running around town and the 'amp' lite... UPDATE 200 1980

I posted last week on the problem I was having with my amp lite going on. I did replace the ignition switch. I did put in a new fuel pump relay. I did check all connections including alternator/belt.

I did not mention a very strange electrical problem that I thought was related to a faulty ignition. The idiot lites go on as I turn on the ignition, but ONLY if my heater fan is turned off. Otherwise, only the "amp" lite goes on as I turn the key in the ignition. With he fan "off"..no problem.

I do know that the heater fan was replaced with a newer type.. there is a big hole on the passenger side that has been duct taped (where the blower motor was swapped out). I'm assuming that the person who did the job did not wire the hot lead correctly. I'm tracking down that problem shortly.

The problem sometimes with the older cars is that you never know how things were done before...Thank goodness the overall integrity of the car is good.

Thanks again for your suggestions. It has really helped. My 16 year old daughter is very happy that she can continue to practice her driving in "her" car.








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20 miles of running around town and the 'amp' lite... UPDATE 200 1980

remove #3 fuse and try again, maybe it's a short in the blower circuit. good luck, chuck.








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20 miles of running around town and the 'amp' lite... UPDATE #2 200 1980


You know, I was sure that if I yanked the fuse, that 'ol blower motor would just keep on blowin'. Nope.
So now, I'm wondering why that my idiot lites are not lighting up (except for the "amp" lite when I turn the key with the blower motor on. Not only that, the motor keeps on running after I turn the key back one notch, to the accessories position.
Any suggestions regarding how to attack this problem would be appreciated!
Thanks,
Larry








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20 miles of running around town and the 'amp' lite... UPDATE #2 200 1980

The fan is powered in both ACC and IGN on.
I have no clue as to the idiot lights versus fan switch though.
Since it seems to literally be the switch which effects this. I'd start by taking the dash aprt and looking at the wiring there.
Do the gauges react the same way as the lights (you'll have to wait to see their response). They should, they recieve power throught the same V+ line as the idiot lights.
--
744-16v-4+OD 185kmi., 745-16v-4+OD 359kmi., 242Turbo-4+OD 170kmi?, 245DLT automatic 287kmi.








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20 miles of running around town and the 'amp' lite... UPDATE #2 200 1980

with the 1 fuse out, does the car act normally otherwise? what was the part number on the ignition sw you bought? should be a 1212421. the 700 sw looks like it but is not the same. good luck, chuck.







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