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Brickboarders,
I love volvos (dad has had volvos for as long as i can remember ) and need some advice on purchasing a 760 sedan. (they seeem to be alot cheaper than 740s and have a bit more power).
I hear many conflicting stories about this car from various volvo owners.
Most seem to say the engine is problematic with corrosion setting in and bad camshafts, oil wells etc..... and to treat it like the plague.
Others say they love their car and will keep it forever .....
I read the 700/900 faqs and they seem to talk more about the 87 onward series which maybe a little beyond my budget at this stage (looking for my first car and have a tight budget).
Are the 760s labour intensive cars and how hard is it to work on.?
Are most of the 740 mechanical parts interchangeable with the 760s(engine, transmission, suspension,etc.....?) ?
What is the transmission like( same as 740s) ?
What should i look for in particular in the b28 engines?
The car i have in mind and that i have my eye on has 130K kms on the clock and is selling for $aud 2000.00 is this good value ?
How many kms should i expect out of the motor ?
How expensive are parts ?
Any advice would be very greatly appreciated?
Regards
David
Dad has 264gl 1975 337,000 kms and 1988 740gle 290,000 kms All still going strong.
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I was made to understand any volvo with a "6" ...avoid.
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Thanks for all the advice everyone out there......After much deliberation I am happy to announce i will be purchasing the car...for the agreed $2000 aud :->
once again thanks all
David
75/264GL,88/740GLE and soon to be 85/760GLE
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Ive been a Volvo tech since 1983. DO NOT BUY A 6 CYLINDER VOLVO. The 6 was a joint venture by renault,pugeo and Volvo. Volvo thought they needed a V6 at the time.The cams go bad, the timing chains go bad the head gaskets go bad and the rocker arms go bad and they are very hard expensive to repair. Stick with a 4 cylinder engine .They are almost bullit proof, and a lot less expensive to repair and maintain. Call a Volvo dealer and ask how much to replace the timing chains on a v6 then how much to replace a timing belt on a 4. I love Volvo's but will not look at a 6
GC
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Your best bet is a 760 turbo, if they are available in Australia. The 760 turbo has the same motor (4-cylinder B230FT) and drivetrain (M46 manual or AW71 automatic) as the 740 turbo. The B230FT is a rock solid motor and parts are a dime-a-dozen. The sole difference between the 740 turbo and the 760 turbo is that the 760T is equipped with amenities that were never offered with the 740T, e.g. electronic climate control. Consider that these systems often become problematic as the vehicle ages, and when they fail, the repair bills can break the bank.
Barring a well maintained 760T, look for a 1987 or newer 760 with the much improved B280F V-6. The B28F as found in 1976-1986 models is the infamous V-6 that has a tendency for camshaft failure. You might find the Buying a Used 760 section of the FAQ to be of use in making your decision. Kudos to Mr. Stephen Ringlee for maintaing this wellspring of information.
Regarding the car that you are presently looking at: 130,000 kms is approximately 80,000 mi. if my math has not failed me. The timing chain and other vital B280F components are reputed to have a service life of about 200,000 miles or 321,000 kilometers. 2,000 AUD ($1,500) would be a steal for that car in our market, provided that it has been well kept, but I have no idea what the market for these cars is like in Australia. The price that you have been quoted could be just average.
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Thanks for the advice so far ;->
I inspected the car the other day and the owners whom seems to be fairly decent person said that there was a coolant leak( i wouldnt have known if they hadnt told me), and that their mechanic could not detect it. They say he has done a pressure test on th cooling system and their is no leaks from the blcok ( this is my biggest worry.....could it be leaking from the block........what are the chances........how do i tell if it is actually the block........i dont want to trust her mechanic......these engines are known for corrosive blocks..)
Apart from that the car is mechanically perfect, suspension and transmission are A1 and body is straight(few scratches but body is straight) and interior is good condition......................I would buy it now if not for this bloody coolant leak.
ps i checked the oil and no evidence of water....
ps also notice that the ride is a lot more comfortable than my 740...
Advise me please (i like the car)?
Regards
David
264,740.
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i'd worry about the coolant leak unless you can see it in the intake valley. generally, the hoses or the orings on the y-pipe in there leak.
the blocks can corode, the thin spot is above the oil filter. if the wrong antifreeze was used, that happens. i'd also worry about the heads, gaskets and cylinder liners. the motor stuff aside, the harnesses are terrible, especially with the v6 in either body. if you have to have a v6, hold out for a late b280. if you have to have an early 700, get an 84 b23t 760. good luck, chuck.
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No, these engines are not known for self-destructing anything other than the cams.
The inline six cylinder engine is the one with all those problems.
Ideally if they did a pressure test they should be able to find out where it's disappearing to. If you want to be extremely cautious, do a compression and/or a leak down test to verify it's not the head gasket(s). If the radiator is original, it may be ready to blow (the plastic tanks tend to fail without a whole bunch of advance warning.. but they do last a good 10 or so years).
--
alex
'89 765T, 170k miles
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"No, these engines are not known for self-destructing anything other than the cams."
The B280F, which is what the car he is looking at has, does not have this problem.
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You asked about the frequency and cost of maintenance and repairs.
The 4-cylinder B230 engine variants as found in 740s and 740T/760Ts require more "short term" maintenance than the B280 V-6, such as periodic cleaning of the EGR system (actually a proprietary "flame trap" in place of the traditional EGR valve and associated plumbing), valve adjustments, and replacement of the timing belt every 50,000 miles or 80,000 kms. The B280 employs a timing chain in lieu of the rubber belt found on the B230. The chain should be good for at least 200,000 miles (321,000 kms) but is costly to replace. The B280 is also an interefence motor, meaning that if the chain fails, the valvetrain can sustain damage. The B230, on the other hand, is not an interference motor and its rubber timing belt can be replaced by the average shadetree mechanic at a very nominal cost. Both engines have front oil seals that are prone to leak on high mileage motors. The B280 has an aluminum block (B230 is cast iron), which necessitates replacing the coolant at least every two years to prevent corrosion. Valve adjustments on the B280 are easier than on the B230, but I believe that the recommended service interval is shorter for the B280. The fuel injection system is the same (Bosch LH 2.2) for both engines beginning with 1987 model year 760s. In general, these are easy engines to service. This is especially true of the B280 relative to contemporary American and Japanese V-6s.
Be aware that the 760 (both V-6 and turbo models) has Nivomat self-levelling shocks in the rear suspension as opposed to the standard gas shocks used in the 740. These are very expensive to replace. Some 760s can be retrofitted to accept gas shocks, and some cannot, depending on the model year. If the rear end of the car you are looking at sags, it's time to have the Nivomats replaced.
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While the red block engines may need more frequent attention, the attention they usually require is easier.
Case in point valve adjustment. At least with the earlier V6s there was a whole bunch of crap bolted to the valve covers. With the four banger, removing the valve cover is dead simple.
Similarly the timing belt is about a thirty minute job if you've done it once or twice. I highly doubt the timing chains (of which there are 3.. I think) are anywhere near that simple.
The B280F may be a fair bit simpler than the Asian and Domestic V6s of the period (I don't doubt that), but the B230FT is simpler still. The B230 (all 8/12v red blocks really) are tractor motors in comparison.
--
alex
'89 765T, 170k miles
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IMHO, the 760's were bad cars. But, I would rather buy a 740 Turbo over a 760 because they are so much more common that parts won't be hard to find. Some 740 and 760 parts are interchangable but figuring out which ones can be tough. If you can find a 740 Turbo for the same price with the same miles, buy that instead.
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'Where's your common sense?' 'It left me when I was 5'
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what year 760? plus, not all 760s were v6s. some were diesel and some were b230t. good luck, chuck.
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