Ok, we made the tool to change the trailing arm bushing on the '86 245. Any last minute tips on the job? We start bright and early tomorrow morning. Hope this will help with some rear vibrations.

Thanks in advance

Mike

put them in the freezer tonight, then when you are ready to slide them in the will be shrunk a bit and go in easier. use a bit of dish soap on them to press them in to. air tools are highly recommended and in fact it makes pressing the new ones in really really slick.

i made the tool too and it worked great, $13 vs. $199.

you don't need to remove the coil springs either, at least i didn't, and the exhaust you can just un hang and move to the side, but be carefull of breaking any rusty spots and having a louder exhaust.

plan for it to take you about 5 hours if you dont' have a lift. but once you get done, you will feel like you can do anything!!!

good luck
chuck
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'88 244 173K, '87 BMW 325e 175K (used to feed a '84 245, '84 244, '85 744)

- are there any other bushing areas that may require a special tool?

- is a shop press necessary for the rear control arm bushing?

- will this $69 harbor freight 6-ton hydraulic shop press suffice?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=4711
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Rich Wiebe

Put some wheel bearing grease (or gear lube) on the thread of the tool's big bolt, and also under the head where it turns against the pipe cap. My bolt galled, even with BreakFree for lubricant, but the replacement (found some high-strength, fine-pitch threaded rod) worked just fine with an extreme pressure lubricant. Heed Don Foster's remarks about which way to remove and which way to insert.

As has been stated, it's a dirty, labor intensive job, but you'll smile once you've cleaned up and you take your now-quiet brick for a test drive!

Here was my 2 cents worth, after going the same route you're following: rear TABushing job FCP bushings? 200

Have you been soaking them for the past week with PB Blaster or Kroil. It pays dividends on removing the old ones.

Randy

I am planning to use some liquid wrench on them just before we start disassembly. This car is very rust free. I just pressure washed the rear tonight and its pretty clean.

Mike

Liquid Wrench is junk. Find some PB Blaster. I work in a paper mill. Everything, everywhere gets wet and stuff is rusted on tight. PB Blaster works. We use it because nothing else does.

As for tips on the job, it'll be great to have a chisel or long punch for collapsing the outside shell of the old bushings- that way they'll walk right out of the mounting ears on the axle. Otherwise it can be very tough to get them out. They come out to the inside of the car, and new ones drive in from the inside (differential side) towards the outside (wheel side) of the control arm. They're tapered; they won't go in backwards.

Good luck with it!
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 228K, 88 744GLE- 212K, 91 244 183K-SOLD! Also responsible for the care and feeding of: 88 745GLE, 231K, 88 244GL, 146K, 87 244DL, 239K, 88 245DL, 246K

Keep us posted, problems encountered, etc. I'm waiting for my Groton order to get in, then doing all rear bushings on my 88 245.