I'm preparing to replace the control arm bushings. It looks to me like when I disconnect the 3 nuts attaching the ball joint to the control arm, there is nothing keeping the spring from going to full extension. None of my manuals say anything about using a spring compressor, and I haven't read anyone on here mention compressing the spring. Am I missing something, or should I compress the spring first?
Thanks,
Mark
'89 240DL Sedan

As the others have said, don't worry about the spring.

But I would also advise that you do NOT separate the ball joint mount from the control arm (3 bolts). Because due to the excess "slop" in those holes, you are not likely to get them back in the same position—and will thus alter the camber angle of that strut.

If you do need to free the BJ from the strut, do it at the 4 12mm bolts going up at the bottom of the strut, and preserving the BJ-to-CA relationship.

Actually, I usually just replace the REAR control arm bushing, and do it by removing the 3 14mm bolts at the "bucket" mount, then pry the CA down with a 2x4 for removal clearance (praying that the old bushing sleeve isn't rusted to the CA stud (19mm nut holding bushing).
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

You won't have any trouble, nor any stray parts.
Just jack it up and remove the bracket in the back of the control arm.
You don't even need to take apart the ball joint to do the control arm bushings- the bushing is pressed into the bracket.
Remove 3 bolts (14mm heads), remove the front control arm nut and bolt (19mm) and then pull it down to get the 1 big nut off the back end of the control arm stud. The bracket and bushing *SHOULD* pull right off the control arm- but sometimes they are stuck and require beating, pickle forks, perhaps some coercion involving your trusty BFH. (That's a Big Fat Hammer,eh!)

Note the control arm bushing is a different P/N side to side, supposedly driver's side is stiffer. Old ones can be collapsed from the side with a chisel, then pushed out of the bracket; a new one is driven into the bracket with your hammer, and a steady progression of blows around the lip of it so it drives in straight.

For doing the front bushings, you'd need to have it pressed at a machine shop; front ones don't really wear out like the rear does.
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 228K, 88 744GLE- 212K, 91 244 183K-SOLD! Also responsible for the care and feeding of: 88 745GLE, 231K, 88 244GL, 146K, 87 244DL, 239K, 88 245DL, 246K

The front springs are limited in extension by the struts. Assuming that your struts haven't somehow come apart, the springs shouldn't go anywhere.

Your mileage may vary, void where prohibited by law.
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1991 245, 61k miles, looking for a 5 speed 92-93 245 cheap.

Not to worry--when the car is off the ground the spring is at the "full extension" that the strut will allow. The strut cartridge is holding the spring assembly together with that big nut on top, so that when the car is off the ground, the spring will extend to the full length of the strut insert will allow. Have no fear, you'll be fine.

Nate Gundy
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'86 240DL sedan, 260K miles, M46, K cam, 25/21mm sways, 260 front and wagon rear springs; http://valvespringcompressor.weblogs.us/