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Engine knock increase after timing belt change.

Hello Board,

The car is 1990 240 non turbo automatic. The clock is just turning 130,000.

Ive had this engine knock. Not heard when engine is cold. Heard less while car is in drive. Heard more in neutral.

I recently did a timing belt/front seal change. I used the rope in number one cylinder to hold the enging still while loosening/tightening the crank shaft pully.

Now, after the car is warm, I hear the knocking all the time, idle, in park, in neutral, in drive.

Car runs good.

What do I make of this noise. Piston slap? rod knock? What?



Lawrence








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Engine knock increase after timing belt change. 200 1990

Sounds like piston slap. While I doubt that the rope trick did any damage, it is coincidentally the #1 piston that usually causes the "slap".
I do know of one car which had it's engine changed out for excessive noise (out of a few hundred we sold at the used-Volvo dealer I worked for). It just happened to be a 1990, with about 145K on it. No other symptoms, just noisy, and that one was particularly bad when cold.
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 229K, 88 744GLE- 218K, 82 245T-181K Also responsible for the care and feeding of: 88 745GLE, 231K, 87 244DL, 239K, 88 245DL, 246K








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Engine knock increase after timing belt change. 200 1990

Thanks for the response,
I guess the only way to know for sure is to take things apart. Huh?
Ambience counts for me. It may not be serious, but I would like to eliminate this noise. I plan on having this car for awhile, I dont know If I can stand to listen to that noise. Its not extremely loud, but, like and old friend, its there.

If I turn the radio up I dont hear it. Perhaps thats the solution, but:

If I decided to change the engine, which one is best for the 90. Would one of the later B230s(say 94/95)work in my 90? One of those with the AW72L attached.
Any opinions on this?

Thanks

Lawrence










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Engine knock increase after timing belt change. 200 1990

The center main bearing "used" to have the thrust washer "built into" it. Nowadays they are not. The knock is from the shifting of the thrust washer just a "smidge" away from the center main bearing. That's why we use the Volvo special tool. What is the "rope trick" if I may ask?







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