I'll be getting my carburetors back shortly, but, since my engine was running extremely rich before the SUs were rebuilt, I was told to change the intake (and exhaust) manifold gaskets. I have a '63 B18D engine. When ordering these gaskets, do I need to worry about the nuts and studs on the block that hold the manifolds themselves? Do these typically break when unbolting? Is there something that I should look out for when removing the manifolds?

Another point, did any of you have your manifolds painted or powder-coated and did they hold up well so that they resist the high temperatures (ie. no paint peeling or cracking)? While I have these off, I'd like to take care of this so that they look presentable. Thanks for any responses.

Hi,

Its all straightforward - if you soak the nuts in penetrating oil a few days beforehand then all should go well. If you have the option of ordering a spare exhaust manifold stud and intake stud (I think that they're different lengths) with matching nuts then you shouldn't be delayed for too long if anything does go wrong. There are steel hoop inserts in the intake ports which normally stay in place when you take off the manifold - you can check that they've stayed in place but thats as much as you need to watch out for. There should be a gasket between the head and heat shield and another one between the heat shield and carb. Ensuring that every last scrap of old gasket has been removed from the matching surfaces goes without saying and some anti-seize on the studs when putting it all back together is a good investment for the future.

Some people reckon that exhaust thermal wrap is a good idea but that's probably a subject for another thread - its probably not really necessary and it tends not to look as neat as a painted manifold.

Aidan
--
1967 131, 1969 131

If you do wind up taking off the manifolds, Eastwood makes a fine product that you brush on the manifold ( exaust ) that when cured looks like new cast iron (grey) and stays put for years. You will have to sand blast the manifold but first take a file and grind off any imperfections like seams and such, a metal grinder does a fine job. After sandblasting, do not handle the manifold if you can help it with your bare hands as it has to be completly oil free. Brush on the product from Eastwood, let it sit for about a half hour. Then I put it in the bar-b-q on high for about an hour. This will cure the paint before you scuff it putting itt back on. Driving will cure it the rest of the way and it will look like a new manifold for years. Great stuff and it costs about $ 20.00
I have used it on several hi performance Chevy small blocks, an old 39 Packard and others and have had no complants.
Dennis

Also sand blast the inside of the manifold.