Hello All!
This is my first time posting on this board, but I am looking forward to knowing all of you. Ok, so here's my question. I have a 1989 Volvo 240, and I really need to change the pads on it. I dont have the money to take it to get fixed, so I was planning to do it myself. I am generally familiar with changing pads, but I just wanted to know if there were any specific tricks or tips to do it on this 240. Because I am in College and I dont really have all my tools, I will have to go borrow them from O'Riellys or AutoZone or something, so I was curious if you guys knew the specific Tools I will need. I will of course need a ratchet, but could you guys help me with the specific socket size? Will I need any of the large allen wrenches? I assume I will also need a C-clap to compress the piston. Will I need to bleed the lines? When I had done it on my old car (1984 Firebird), I just took off the cap from the resevior, and compressed the piston. Is there any write ups or instructions on how to complete this brake change? I am really wanting to do this myself, and KNOW how to do it. Basically I just need generic help!

Thank you for any information,
Nathan

The advice given be the other two posters is good. I will merely
add to it:
(1) do not use Raybestos ProStop pads. I tried those pads in the
front, and they cracked within less than 1000 miles.
(2) make sure that the pads don't fit too tightly in their guides.
If they can't slide relatively freely, file a few thou off the top
and botton edges with a grinder or Dremel. Overly snug pads will
stick on, causing the brakes to overheat, and (in extreme cases) the
brake fluid to boil, leaving you with no brakes.
(3) If the pins are rusty, clean them with a wire wheel or sandpaper.
If the slide pins are bent, replace them.
(4) This has been said before, but I should repeat, because it's
important. Use silicone grease on all sliding surfaces - pins and
caliper surfaces where the top and bottom of the pad slide. Don't
get any on the braking surface of the pad or the disc surface, of
course.


Good luck - the 240 is one of the easiest cars to replace pads on.
Slightly easier than more bicycles, actually,
-b.

Actually, all you'll really need is a pair of needle-nosed pliers, a small-diameter punch, and a hammer if all you're doing is changing pads. A good thing to do would be to get even a Haynes manual (about $15), although the Bentley is better (closer to $40) IMHO.

You'll start with the car jacked up and safely supported, and a front wheel off. Each pin retaining a pad has a "hairpin" clip on the inboard side which retains the pin. Remove the clips with needle-nose pliers (save them if you didn't buy new hardware), then drive the pins inboard. Wartch that the anti-rattle spring doesn't go flying away! Then gently lever the pads outboard from the rotor, which will compress the caliper pistons. You might want to watch the master cyl reservoir as you do this, so it doesn't overflow. Then withdraw the old pads, and carefully scrape away the accumulated brake dust and road debris from the pad recesses on the caliper. Use a plastic or wooden tool (like a popsicle stick) to minimize risk to the piston seals - just nothing pointy or sharp.

Your new pads should come with Teflon-lined shims. If not, get them from a dealer. Check the fit of the new pad and shim in the caliper, inboard and outboard sides. They should be a close fit but you should still be able to wiggle them slightly. Over the years I've had to dress the pad backing plates with a file at times to remove excessive paint. Carefully lever the pistons farther into the caliper if you need more lateral clearance.

When your pad and shim fits each side OK, put a liberal gob of Syl-Glide (silicone grease) between the pad's backing plate and the shim, then smear some on the shim where it will contact the pistons. Careful not to get any grease on the pad's friction surface or the rotor. Get both pads and shims in place, aligning them with your punch. Install the lower pin from the inboard side, making sure the anti-rattle spring is in place as you slide the pin home. You will have to drive the pin in with light hammer taps in order to compress the little spring sleeve on the head of the pin, which provides a friction fit. Next, depress the anti-rattle clip with a screwdriver in its center in order to get the upper pin seated thru both pads.

With both pins and the anti-rattle clip installed, then rotate the pins until you can see the holes for the retention clips you removed at the start of the job. Replace them. Then carefully give your brake pedal a couple of light pumps to push the pistons back into contact with the pads (don't push the brake pedal to the floor - use half-strokes at first, but it should only take a couple). Then proceed to the other front wheel.

The rears are similar, but they don't use the little "hairpin" clips.

Wow! Thank you all so much for the help! I really appreciate it. Maybe, I read it wrong, but I can remove the pads without even removing the calliper? I am sure these seem like novice questions, I am just abit worried because I do not want to screw this up.

Thanks Again for all the help,
Nathan

"I can remove the pads without even removing the calliper?"

Yes, you can- they just slide right out the back. Once you get the wheel off, it'll all make sense. Good luck,

Matt

Very thorough explaination. Are there any special considerations for changing front pads on cars with ABS brakes? Thanks.

Although my knowledge is NOT the 'last word' in this vein, I have it on good advice that on ABS-equipped cars it is better practice to open the single bleeder valve on each caliper when pushing the pistons back into the calipers, so as not to displace potentially contaminated old fluid into the ABS control unit.

Beyond that, just enjoy the fact you only have one bleeder per corner!

Clamp the soft line to ensure nasty fluid doesn't flow back into the ABS head unit.

--
alex

'89 765T, 173,1xx mi

I would just add a word of caution about the anti-rattle springs. If you're not careful, they're AT LEAST as likely to go for your eye as "fly away" (don't ask how I know). Safety goggles aren't a bad idea.

changing pads is really easy.(assumming you don't need to mess with rotors) I usually use a pair of pliers(to pull out lock pins) a metal dowel(to push out pins and a hammer(to tap on dowels). you might also need some kind a lever to push in pistons.(just don't mess up rubber boot) One thing I always do is apply hi-temp copper based anti seize compound to both sides of the shims.
--
1990 240 Sdn 277K,tach,strut brace,turbo sway 1990 240 Wgn M47II 157K,tach,strut brace,poly bushings,IPD sways