I've been having shuddering problems lately, and this morning I discovered that the center driveline support rubber was completely disintegrated! I ordered a replacement kit from IPD, but I'm not sure if I'm going to be able to replace this thing on my own. What kind of steps are required? What steps will be particularly difficult? I don't even know how to remove the driveshaft and all that. Will I need a press to get the bearing on? Should I have some or all of this process farmed out?

By that way, it's a 1982 240 wagon.

Thanks.

YES!! 10 min. job.
--
Kevin * HONDA spanking,1985 240DL * VOLVO ON!!!!

You must mean 10 minutes not including the bearing, right?

So the question is: "Should I replace the bearing?" It's seems like that's going to be the hardest part of the process, but if the bearing is still workable (I'm not sure at this point) I'm tempted just to leave it on there and change the donut. Any more thoughts on this? Do these things go bad frequently? What happens when the bearing goes/seizes?

I haven't had any probs with bearings so far. Replaced a couple of donuts though.

The drive shaft is easy enough to drop when/if the bearing goes. Right now you have a spare. The old one may not be a spare after if is removed.

Sometimes making small improvements may not be worth the hassle because of unexpected problems. So, if it ain't broke, why fix it?

"What happens when the bearing goes/seizes? "
Spins around in the rubber giving a burning rubber smell?
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans

Have done this several times in the past 29 yrs as a Volvo 200 owner. I've read the other responses which all contain good tips. Added suggestions:
1. Since you have the front d/s in your hand in order to replace the donut, go ahead and replace the bearing also. Rejuvenating it with penetrating oil or etc will only last a short time.
2. Don't buy some aftermarket bearing (made in China crap). Get the OEM bearing and bring it with the d/s to an auto machine shop (around here NAPA and Pep Boys have facilities to do this and should cost about $20)to have it pressed off and on. It will be tight. It is a simple, 5 min. job, with the right equipment. Don't risk safety and damage by trying to hammer it off.
3. When mounting the front shaft/donut, don't forget the dampening spring and cup that goes between the donut and cross member.
4. You'll have to drop the rear shaft from the differential-easy to do. After mounting the front shaft with the new bearing and donut installed, clean the male splines on the rear shaft. Use new spline grease (such as molydisulfide-from any auto parts store)and apply it to every groove. Put a new rubber boot on the male spline before inserting it into the front shaft. I think the front lip of the boot is supposed to be stretched over the front shaft but this is a bitch of a task. I've run for years with the boot just butting the back edge of the front shaft. This keeps dirt and water from getting into the splines.
Good luck, RK

Caliwagon - You can do this job. As the others said, mark the flanges at the tranny and differential so that the u-joints go back together just the way they did before. This preserves the balance of the system. I use a small dab of spray paint on the edge of the assembled flanges. The splined section at the end of the front shaft and beginning of the rear shaft should each have an arrow stamped onto them. Make sure these arrows are aligned prior to dropping the driveshafts. If they are aligned, use the arows to realign the splines when you reassemble the shaft. If not, you will have to mark this part of the shaft as well.

You need two combination wrenches (15mm and 17mm, I believe) to disassemble the four bolts that hold the tranny and differential flanges. The center bearing support bracket is held to the floorpan by four bolts (12mm perhaps). You'll need a ratchet, extension and socket for the bracket. In order, I undo the differential flange bolts, tranny flange bolts, and bearing support bracket.

Be careful when removing the bearing. The last thing you want to do is distort the shaft. Use some PB Blaster if you need to. Same thing goes for reinstalling the new bearing. Tap ONLY on the edge of the inner race with the outer race unconstrained. If you have an old pipe that will fit around the end of the griveshaft and rest on the inner flange, you can use that to drive the new bearing home.

If the old bearing is still tight, it can be rehabbed without being removed from the shaft. Carefully pry off the exposed seal. A pointed knife or very sharp screwdriver plade works. Clean out the old grease using, what else, PB Blaster. Spray in the PB Blaster and spin the bearing around. It helps to use compresesed to blow out the disolved grease. Break cleaner would also work. Add more PB Blaster, repeat the process until the bearing is clean. Pack the bearing with a good quality grease and replace the seal.

After your new/rehabbed bearing is ready, reinstall the shaft. I like to rest the front shaft on a spare jackstand and install the center support bracket and bearing first. Make sure the support spring and its washer are in place. I then install the bolts for the front flanges. If the tranny is in neutral, you can spin the front shaft, giving easy access to all of the bolts. Finally, install the four bolts for the differentisl flanges.

Support the car safely on ramps or jackstands while you work and block the tires. Good luck!!!
--
'88 244GL, '89 244GL, '90 244DL, '91 244, '92 244

I think if the present bearing is fine, you could just replace the rubber. If it ain't broke ...
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans

You will need a few wrenches to uncouple the universal joints and remove the center bearing hanger. Mark the positions of the yokes at the ujoints and the two halves of the driveshaft. Always a good idea to put things back together the same way they were, eh? Slide the driveshaft apart at the slip joint. Drive the bearing off the shaft with a hammer and punch. I have an old piece of mild steel rod, but any soft punch will do. Gotta drive it off straight...bang some on one side, then turn it, you know? Drive the new one on, then put the whole thing back together.

If you take the bearing off be careful of the dust cover next to the bearing. If you loosen it or distort it's shape on the shaft it will rattle like mad while you are driving. I found out the hard way and had to spot weld the cover to the shaft to quiet it. The bearing is a bear to get off and I finally cut it off with a rotary tool. Good luck.

Mario