Team,

Over the past few months I've been having issues with my electric fan and have made a few posts regarding it. Here are the updated details:
1) Fan is a 16" Hayden puller fan rated 1600 CFM.
2) Preset thermo probe (inserted into rad fins) which enages the fan at 185 F and off at 170 F.
3) new oem thermostat, all new coolent, no leaks, radiator powerwashed
3) Fan is not connected to the AC to engage when/if AC is on and only comes on if fan thermo reaches 185.

The probe is mounted in the upper left hand corner/area of the radiator and cut so the probe does not protrude out of the rad. Today I let the car run for about 40 min (today was about 75F in Boston) with the AC cranked and could hear/see the condenser fan engage as well as the E-fan which at first would only remain on for about 15-20 seconds then cycle off. About 35 minutes into the "test" the temp gauge began to approach the redline. The electric fan was definitely running and remained on constantly until I decided to turn off the AC. The gauge was contant (slightly below the redline while the fan was running so it wasn't getting hotter persay but didn't drop the temp down either). Once I turned off the AC, the E-fan then shutoff and the gauge returned to the 9:00 position (pretty quickly). For the next 5 min it cycled back on and the gauge remained steady. I then terminated the test and shutoff the car. It seems that the fan was not powerful enought to bring the temp below 170 and hence remained on while the gauge remained slightly below the redline.

What should I do? I have not moved the probe to a different location on the rad yet which I will do which maybe will keep it on longer initially. Is the fan not powerful enough? It does have a shroud (no where near as big as the original though). Maybe the probe doesn't read accurately. Should I step up to a three-row rad or maybe ditch the cheap hayden thermo probe and get an adjustable one to turn on at a lower temp (175-180) and off at a lower temp (160). Or get one that threads into the coolant line. It seems that it is more linked to the AC now. I'd like to keep the e-fan but might have to go back to the mechanical one. I thought the t-stat opens at 192...or is it 189?
Thanks as always,
--
'92 244GL silver-metallic, 146k, Bilstein HDs, IPD sways, upper+lower chassis braces, Cherry-Turbo strut brace, 240 OEM rear wing, 15" Draco Rims, Full E-code lighting w/side repeaters, Magnaflow 2.5" mandrel SS exhaust w/Unitek header (Jethot coated)

D-A-W-G,

Did you "burp" the cooling system when you installed (or had done) the engine thermostat? Maybe you have air lock fucking things up. It would seem that you have covered every conceivable option... and I would bet the solution is more obvious than you think!

What about the water pump? Functioning properly? Does the upper hose get hard when the car is up to temp?

Before I purchased a new Sanden 709 compressor and converted to r134, every time I used the a/c the car would over heat. Problem... bad compressor... and the reason for the new one and the conversion from r12. Just a thought.

I just put a condersor fan on yesterday, now my a/c makes hard nipples! I also plan to ditch that crappy mechancial fan. I sincerely doubt the fan set up is your problem -outside of the probe sytle thermo. Bad choice on that one, my friend. First, upgrade to an in line thermo. Cheap & easy. Then procede further. As always post back if you have any new information. I will relay your drama to my gearhead friends and get their response.

Peace Out, Jon

Dawg,

Still got that problem... I would trash that cheap ass push-in thermostat and go for the in-line version. An adjustable in-line thermo set to run at a lower temp should slove your drama. The e-fan can not be the sole issue. Do you have a condensor fan as well? Maybe, an extra (smaller) e-fan set up on the condensor would help.

What is the temperature rating of your standard thermostat? This may sound stupid, but is it installed correctly?

Are you sure the electric fan is set up correctly -in the proper direction?

What about the temp. compensation board? Have you tried the same test after jumping the terminals?

Some thoughts to consider.

Peace!!!, Jon

My man,

Thanks for the help. I think I'm going to snag an in-line thermo to see if that makes the difference. The condensor fan tests out OK. I think the coolant thermo opens at either 189 or 192 (not 100% sure). The E-fan is installed correctly as a puller (mounted on the engine side) and the hot air is pulled away from the radiator. Already replaced the temp comp board and then did the bypass. I'll report back once I get this damn thing figured out!

Best,
-Adam


--
'92 244GL silver-metallic, 146k, Bilstein HDs, IPD sways, upper+lower chassis braces, Cherry-Turbo strut brace, 240 OEM rear wing, 15" Draco Rims, Full E-code lighting w/side repeaters, Magnaflow 2.5" mandrel SS exhaust w/Unitek header (Jethot coated)