I have 1957 444 which is in need of a new oilpan gasket. I was wondering if you can replace it with out pulling the engine. It looks like you may be able to disconect one motor mounts and jack the engine up on that side(a small amount). Any info or warnings would be appreciated.
thanks

Yes you can it's an easy job. I used a few short lengths of 2X4 as spacers between the mount and frame. While you have the pan off consider replacing the connecting rod and main bearings.

I repalced the clutch and all repated parts, so I know the main seal was fine (clutch disk etc. were all dry). I got the car from a guy who had the car professionally maintained and kept the engine spotless. He said, and I agree that the oil looks to be coming from the oilpan gasket area. Also all the other gaskets were replaced (valve cover, tappet inspection cover). I have done an oil pan gasket change on a 64' ford falcon and remember it being pretty bad, the fuel pump actuation lever had broken off and dropped into the pan. I think I will probably try to do it with out removing the engine 1st and then if it is just too difficult, i'll go buy the hoist and pull the engine.
thanks
Pete

I quote from my PV Service Manual:

1) Lift up the vehicle about 12" above the floor and place blocks under it near the jack points.

2) Appy a lifting device under the engine mountings. N.B., DO NOT LIFT ON THE WATER PUMP. Unscrew the nuts for the front engine mounting pads from below. Lift the engine as high as possible without pinching anything on the scuttle (?) and allow it to hang on pulley blocks, a workshop hoist, and engine lifter or similar.

3) Place a jack under the front member.

4) Clean off around the brake pipe connections and the master cylinder. Disconnect the brake pipes to the front end on the master cylinder. Plug the lines in order to prevent impurities from entering the brake system.

5) Remove the four front bolts for the front member. Screw in two bolts about 2 15/16" long in place of these, one on each side. Remove the four bolts for the member.

6) Lower the front end so that it is supported in the two long bolts.

7) Remove the sump in the usual way.

Have a yourself a ball! Actually, I did it a couple of years ago, and it wasn't too bad, but then again, time is kind in that it erases unpleasant memories.

Bob S.

Yes, according to the Volvo green service manual. This applies to the B16 as well as the B14 and B4B. The spacers (SVO 4124) they mention are circular rings that are about 1 1/2" - 2" deep and occupy the slack when you loosen the motor mounts. I don't know the reason for removing the side engine inspection covers, but this also appears in the B4B instructions? If this image is not clear, then it can be accessed on my web site: http://www.cvolvo.com/Oil-pan.jpg

Hope this helps and good luck.
--
Cam a.k.a. CVOLVO.COM

Geez... I have no experience with Volvos that old...

I have done oil pan removals on B18/20 cars... had to raise the engine, and lower the crossmember. Not an easy task. Woulda been easier to just get a hoist and lift the engine out.

My question is... what makes you think its the pan gasket. Them things really don't go bad unless they are taken apart. Could it be the rear main seal? or...?

Leaked oil always collects around the pan, but in my experience, it comes from above somewhere. Sometimes even simple places such as the valve cover. If it is for sure the oil pan, I assume you've made sure the bolts are tight...?

-Matt