Hi all!

I need to get my fuel-injected '73 volvo 144 back on the road. It seems to have never run right. I did a head gasket job not many miles ago, and it failed. When I was putting everything back together last time, I wasn't able to get it to start unless I made #4 cylinder(next to firewall) #1, functionally and then I set the valve lash starting from that end. I knew that this wasn't by the book, but it did run. I loaned it to a friend, and somewhere in there something happened. Now, head gasket is blown again and I really want it to run right. But, something is very wrong. I bring #1 cylinder to TDC of compression stroke, and the rotor is pointing 180 degrees away from the notch on the distributor for #1. There is only one way the distributor assembly can be installed, so it's not a matter of flipping it back around halfway. I've never had the camshaft out. I did replace the (large) timing gear some years ago, but did not lose my place I know. I have tried rotating the distributor body around to where the rotor wants to be, but I know that that is not correct positioning for the body. Now, help me clarify this: When #1(the front cylinder) is at TDC of the compression stroke, the rotor should be pointing generally toward the radiator. Mine points towards the firewall. Believe me, I'm learning, but I'm almost at my wits' end trying to synchronize these parts. I welcome any suggestions. I will do the head gasket tomorrow, then try to get everything set right to run.

Rhys is right about the timing/wires issue. Wherever the rotor points
when #1 is at TDC of the compression stroke is where #1 wire goes. This
happens all the time. If it really bugs you that way you can pull the
distributor/oil pump drive gear/shaft, turn it exactly 180° from where the
gear teeth finally disengaged, and put it back in, but if the wires reach
OK where it works, I'd leave it there.

The headgasket problem may be telling you that you need to mill the head
a bit, just to get it good and flat. Also be sure you torque it right,
both in the right sequence and to the right torque each time (29, 58 and
65 foot pounds). Also be sure that the bolt holes and bolts are good and
clean. I put a little grease on the threads and under the heads of mine
to make sure that what I am reading as torque is going to engaging the
threads rather than overcoming excessive friction. That way the torque
mostly goes to clamping the head to the block and not just twisting the
shank of the bolt.
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Oklahoma, Central US

Amen, George. I use motor oil (lightly).
Just make sure you don't get crazy or it will mess up the head to block seal. I like to run the bolts in before I put the head on with lots of oil. I pull them out and wipe them with a clean cloth and repeat several times. Gives me the opportunity to see if I have problems before I get too far.

Also, you may have bumps on either the head or block from minor corrosion around the water jacket ports that is causing the head to "stand-off" from the block when you have it torqued down properly. A mill file carefully and lightly stroked across the block will knock any of those down (after thorough scraping of gasket or goop).

Have your block deck checked (straight edge across cylinders, a REALLY straight bar) for a low spot between cylinders. More than .002" is very difficult for the gasket to fill properly. Unfortunately, repair of that requires a complete rebuild so the block can be decked.

Mike!

Not a problem - just pull the wires out of the cap and start the order from where the rotor points to when number 1 is at TDC compression.