Just wondering how much effort and exactly what parts I need to pull from a boneyard car that has cruise control to put on my 245 without it. One of the 245's I have, has cruise and I like it! I would like to have it on the other car, but I'm not sure what parts I need to pull. Thanks for all the help as usual!

Sincerely,

JBeechcraft

last week I just did mine. I removed cruise from 1990 240 SW I'm selling and installed it on 1991 240 sedan I'll keep.

It was not too bad of job, I moved the vac pump and hose (from under hood), i moved from under the dash the vac servo from fuel pedal link, the vac swt from brake pedal, the brain mounted on top of steering collum, the contol unit that is incorporated into the turn signal arm, the wire harness conneting all these items and plugs into a large black plug by your ign swt under dash.

Hi -

Last fall I Installed a Volvo CC on my 1988 244. The CC was purchased on eBay, and came with the Volvo instructions. They were essential, even though I have a 1986 244 with CC that could have been a model.

Big point is whether or not your candidate Volvo has the electric speedo. Much simpler and easier if it does.

Parts you need are:

Engine bay. Two tank-looking things mounted on firewall. Get the bracket and all hoses. The hose to the intake manifold may go to a "T" fitting or to a brass fitting, get them all. The wire harness that goes from one of the tank things goes into the cabin somehow. You will need to disconnect it inside and get it out, IIRC it doesn't come off the tank-thing.

If a factory install, the wire might go in at the hood release cable hole. The vacuum hose from the tank into the cabin might go through a hole/grommet near the point where the steering column goes through the firewall.

Cabin. Most work is around, above and below the steering column. Get the left side stalk. Disconnect the wires attached to spade lugs, use needle nose pliers. The harness connector is a short ways inside, and can be manipulated out from below using a left hand - knee pad being removed.

The servo is attached to the gas pedal with a pin, washer (IIRC) and cotter key. The "brain" is mounted on top of a fitting that carries the steering column and the brake & clutch vacuum kill switches. Get that fitting, along with the switches and hoses and harnesses.

The wiring harness has a connection to the brake light switch. The connector on the harness coming in from the engine bay is in there somewhere, just a 4-wire jobbie. The connector tothe "brain" is a 14-pin one. Lotsa wires.

If you need more, I can send you copies of the Volvo instructions I have. I will need $10 for copying (20+ pages) and Priority Mail postsage, and I will be glad to do it. Email me direct.

I followed the instructions except for the firewall penetrations and mounting location of the engine bay tank-things. The system works fine, I really enjoy using it. Even in my area (far suburban type) I like to use it.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

90-93 240- pretty easy, best by far
86-89 240- more challenging, need instructions
85-back- different from above but fairly challenging

Been a while since I have looked at the cruise on a 240... I have seen several configurations and types.

I think you would at least need to grab the CC control unit (ususally under driver's side dash), CC wiring harness, associated vacuum tubing, the stalk that the swithes are mounted on (turn signal or wiper stalk), the CC "kill" switch on the brake pedal (separate from brake light switch- may be vacuum valve) The vacuum actuator and cable assembly going to the acellerator or throttle body. From what I remember, on mine it was a cable running from a vacuum device under the dash to the acellerator pedal. On some it may be electric and/or under the hood (not connected to the pedal). Basically you will have to trace compnents from the CC control unit to be sure.

Also you will have to note all the electrical and vacuum connections. Some can be tricky, like the connection to the back of the instrument panel. Also there is a back up to the CC "kill" switch on the brake pedal. It is usually a wire that goes to the brake light switch. I am not cetrain how many revisions or models of cruise control there are and model year compatibility.

Provided that you find a workable/compatible unit, it should not be an insane task. Just kinda hard working under the dash on the driver's side. Also you have to be very careful about aligning the cruise cable to the accellerator. If not centered dead on for a straight pull, the cable will rub and frey. You'll have to buy a new cable every 6 mo, if this isn't right.

All said and done you can probably do it in 2 hours. I think the dealerships would add it in the form of a kit, if a customer requested.