I'm in the process of replacing my steering column bearings as mine rattle, and hence I need to go thru the process of removing the whole steering column from the car.

Thanks to the info in the Brickboard FAQ, removing the airbag and steering wheel was straightforward.

I've been working through the steps in the Haynes 940 manual (which has a few pictures - the pictures are for a RHD car which is what mine is) , and I've got to the step where I need to remove the steering column lock/ignition switch.

I've removed the pinchbolt which clamps the lock barrel in place, but I can't withdraw the lock, as the locking button , which I can see the top of in the bearing housing down below the pinch bolt won't push in. I have my key in the II position as Haynes suggest. I assume that the locking button must be a springloaded button, as the picture in the Haynes manual shows it sticking out as the lock barrel is withdrawn from the column top bearing housing.

Is it normal for the locking button to require a lot of force to push it in? Do I give it a whack or is their some other trick ?

With all 3 bolts removed from the underneath the top column bearing housing, the blasted thing won't move sideways to help with lock removal (Lock removal assumes I can solve the locking button problem above) , as the spigot (the little projection of the bearing housing that the middle bolt goes into) won't lift up and out of the hole in the column support crossmember. Haynes say to also remove the 3 bolts that hold this crossmember in place as well, presumably so it can be dropped down/ moved a fraction to release the spigot and enable the bearing housing to be moved away from the lock barrel.

2 of the 3 bolts that hold the column support crossmember in place are reasonably accessable, but the one to the side of the car at the top is a real nightmare. It is stuck in behind a whole bunch of wiring with ventilation ducting close by and is only accessible by touch. Using 3 socket extensions and a lot of contortions I can get a socket onto it, but I'm not sure how I'll go when it comes time to refit it...

Today I disassembled everything short of the lock barrel and the horrible crossmember support bolt that I fear I'll have trouble refitting. I removed the 3 shear head bolts on the column top bearing assembly using a cold chisel and some well directed blows, and replaced all 3 with M8 x 25mm high tensile set screws. (2 shear head bolts were under the top bearing housing attaching it to the column support crossmember and one shear head bolt was the lock barrel pinch bolt)

Time was running out, so I went and reassembled everything so I have a usable car for tomorrow.

Next time, providing I can sort out the lock barrel removal, I'll go through to completion with column removal. Having done so much of the work previously, I'll be much faster second time around.

Any tips or comments appreciated.


John Marshall
1994 940GL wagon, 159,000km
Christchurch NZ

John,

Unfortunately I cannot help you get your column out, but I did have some luck by spraying grease on the bearing at the top of the column. Once the steering wheel is off, my mechanic used a spray grease to fill the bearing. While it hasn't made the clunking /noise go away completely, it did drastically reduce the problem. Perhaps if you can't get it out, this may help.

Are you able to get the bearing(s)? This mechanic was unable to get it. thought if I can find it, I may take a stab at it in the future. If you have the replacement or can get at one in the column, there should be a number on the bearing. If you don't mind looking for it and posting it, I could order the bearing from a bearing wholesaler.

Did the steering wheel shimmy at highway speeds? Mine shakes about 70 -75 mph. Was wondering if the steering column is causing this, as tire rotations and balancing have had no effect.

Thanks and good luck with getting your column out and bearing replaced.


Scott Dietrich
1995 940 wagon, 115 k miles