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K-Jet no go, erratic start, run.....arrrrgh 200 1981

posted by  sejose on  Wed Jun 2 18:19 CST 2004
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Alrighty folks

1981 245 K-Jet B21F (California). Recently had the head reconditioned, has run pretty good since then. Always has had a shaky idle, calmed somewhat by the head rebuild. Now this evening on the way home from work, on the freeway, the car starts to buck and cut out. Coast to the side, no idle, all dash idiot lights on. Won't start. Turns right over, but no start. I try the spare fuel pump relay, no go. I jump the fuel pump fuses, no go. Eventually I push and prod and fiddle with IAC connector, Frequency valve connector, and it starts up and runs 'normal' that is with a bit of a shaky idle, but good acceleration and such. So I make it home and have a couple beers. I'm thinking the Frequency valve is the culprit, or the electrical connection, because that was the last thing I fiddled with before it ran again. So I clean the electrical connections on the IAC and the Frequency valve. Car fires up and idles. Frequency valve is buzzing real nice. Then the idle falters and dies. Now it won't start.

Soooooooooo....

I figure the thing to do would be to tear the whole engine compartment apart, replace the engine wire harness, etc, but I need this car for commuting. Any suggestions as to what my issue(s) might be?

Thanks guys, I need help

Scott








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    K-Jet no go, erratic start, run.....arrrrgh 200 1981

    posted by  someone claiming to be davitusrider on  Thu Jun 3 07:47 CST 2004 [RELATED]

    I have a good idea of the solution. I learned this from the parts Guru at Carlson Volvo in Palo Alto, CA. Question for you:
    1. Have you ever removed the power cable to the distributor or the control module on the right side of the engine compartment? (The big cable block going to the ignition module thing on either end)

    If yes, then you need to replace that cable harness.

    For verification see Dave Bartons web site:
    http://www.linkline.com/personal/dbarton/WireHarnesses.html He can sell you a used part for less than new.

    I spent several days troubleshooting my problem on a 1982 GL and could not find a problem. Electrically everything works. The car wouln't run or start, and yet electrically everything was good.

    It turns out that a small change (reduction) of current flow in the cable harness will rendure your car dead. I suspect that many good Volvo's in the wrecking yards suffer from this problem and ended up junked.

    Turns out the hippie guy at Carlson Volvo got it right on the head. I bought the cable harness, hooked it up, and bingo, the car started right up. And the idling is smooth.

    I hope this helps.

    -Wynn (the vitus rider)








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      K-Jet no go, erratic start, run.....arrrrgh 200 1981

      posted by  sejose on  Thu Jun 3 18:43 CST 2004
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      Thanks Wynn

      At some point I remember disconnecting the harnesss from the control unit to check to see if all was clean. I've decided that what I need to do is replace both the ignition wire harness and main engine wire harness before I can really do any true troubleshooting. I'll do the ignition harness first and see what happens after that.

      Thanks for the input!

      Scott








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    K-Jet no go, erratic start, run.....arrrrgh 200 1981

    posted by  gms on  Thu Jun 3 07:41 CST 2004
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    last visit: Wed Sep 11 18:35 CST 2013
    [RELATED]

    I have an 1982 240 B21F ("MPG" California model). Do you have the infamous Chrysler white cap ignition? I finially exorcised some iginition demons from my hall effect sensor connector where it connects to the ignition harness. If you disturbed this connector during your head removal, make sure that you have some of Volvo's special $3 connector sleeves on the conductor posts. Mine was really flaky until I did that. It got so bad that every time I went over a bump, the engine would miss.

    Good luck!

    Greg








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    K-Jet no go, erratic start, run.....arrrrgh 200 1981

    uid 18083's pic
    posted by  lucid on  Thu Jun 3 00:27 CST 2004
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    last visit: Fri Oct 24 12:31 CST 2014
    [RELATED]

    "I jump the fuel pump fuses, no go"

    To me, this points to an ignition problem.

    If the FI relay doesn't get Ignition pulses on terminal 31b (R/W wire) from the negative side of the Coil primary (terminal #1), it will not be energized — or, if already energized, loss of ignition will drop it out (safety issue).
    --
    Bruce Young
    '93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.








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      K-Jet no go, erratic start, run.....arrrrgh 200 1981

      posted by  sejose on  Thu Jun 3 03:18 CST 2004
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      Thanks, I'll check that out. I need somewhere to start, that seems like a good place.

      Thanks








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        Relay Info and another thought 200 1981

        uid 18083's pic
        posted by  lucid on  Thu Jun 3 05:18 CST 2004
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        last visit: Fri Oct 24 12:31 CST 2014
        [RELATED]

        FI Relay should be within 6" to 8" of driver's left knee, maybe tucked down behind side panel. Rectangular (not the square Bosch "cube"), with 6 terminals—2 rows of 3. The W/R wire to 31b will be a clue.

        Plastic case could be Green, Brownish Red, or Black. Real old ones were aluminum-cased.

        Also check Fuse 13 for intermittent contact. This F13 voltage to relay terminal 15 AND the Coil pulses to 31b are BOTH required.

        ALSO — How did you jumper the pumps? F7 to F5 will run the pumps, but NOT the Lambda circuits (O2 input, Freq Valve etc). So maybe my pointing to ignition wasn't valid.
        Voltage jumper from F7 to F5 duplicates Relay output 87, but Lambda needs voltage from relay 87b, as other poster said below.

        Pull relay connector and jumper 87 (Y/R) to 87b ( Blue), then try starting with F7 - F5 jumper. (Put jumper to LEFT side fuse contacts to replicate normal voltage path/current flow)

        --
        Bruce Young
        '93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.








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    K-Jet no go, erratic start, run.....arrrrgh 200 1981

    posted by  someone claiming to be 81242DLB21FCA on  Wed Jun 2 19:45 CST 2004 [RELATED]

    The frequency valve is controlled by a box behind the right side, under dash, interior panel. This receives input from the O2 sensor. The lambda system can be operated without the engine by jumpering pins 30 and 87b in the fuel pump relay socket. However, if the problem is intermitent, it may be difficult to make it repeat. Do you have a multimeter to do tests?







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