Just confirming what i think already. This is a pair of dual SU HIF6s with, is that an integrated intake/exhaust manifold? Or are the manifolds seperate from each other? If it is the integrated unit, will the exhaust manifold hook up to the dual downpipe of the later FI bottom downpipe half? If it doesn't, i'll just mount up the carbs on my early aluminum manifold, which it doesn't look like this setup has... My second set of carbs and stuff...

Thanks guys!
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Kyle - attending Ore. State, while my lil 68 142 (74 b20, m40) AWAITS ME OUTSIDE!!! (check out my cardomain site, kneedsacar)

Yes, it will bolt right up. Check the secondary throttle plates in the manifold for sloppiness, potential vacuum leaks.
Before making any adjustments read the manual carefully, they are a bit different from the DGV. A definite upgrade IMO.

Phoar! Triple SU's! :)

They are HIF6's, they get around corners better & flow more air than the older HS6 SU's. The manifold is one piece & has the pollution throttle plates in it. Your exhaust will bolt up to it just fine. The air cleaner is another story, they are quiet & suck cool air, but the flat filter inside just isn't big enuff.

Cheers,
Paul.

I'll probably just mount them on my aluminum early intake manifold, and then take that inside filter out, and route it out to the front of the car and put a K&N on it out there. As for inside the box, i was thinking of putting some velocity stacks in there. Can't remember where i saw them, but i saw them somewhere... Any thoughts on that setup guys?
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Kyle - attending Ore. State, while my lil 68 142 (74 b20, m40) AWAITS ME OUTSIDE!!! (check out my cardomain site, kneedsacar)

Setup should work nice. I was unaware that the airbox was that big of a restriction (especially with a K&N) but...
The horns can be had from many suppliers, www.pegasusautoracing.com , www.burlen.co.uk , www.aptfast.com , etc...

I think you will be MUCH happier with the carbs on the aluminum manifold. Make certain you have a good heat shield as the HIF is prone to boiling the fuel in the float chamber making for hard hot-starts. Also, check the enrichment circuit carefully as they are prone to eating the o-rings on the cylinder leading to constant over-rich condition or a massive fuel leak (right over those nice hot down-pipes!).
Another worthwhile investment is a phenolic spacer between the heat shield and the carb (from Burlen Fuel Systems) as it will eliminate carb heating from conducting up the intake manifold from the head (and add a little mass to the intake charge for better top-end performance).

It will bolt up to the down pipe just fine.

Try to get smooth tubing for the intake as the corrugated stuff has huge flow losses.

Mike!

Yeah, thanks for the advice! Much appreciated. I was looking around after i posted that and saw that TWM has some horns and i also found some other places with info on tuning SUs and dyno results and other info. There's some good stuff out there for sure. Grassroots Motorsports had some fuel "boiling" problems with their HS6s and they also ended up getting some spacers(from atp as you suggested). They also used the TWM velocity "stacks" so i guess that's where i got that idea... Do you know where i can get gaskets for all of this? I haven't found anywhere that has them... Like, alum. intake manifold/head, carbs/intake man., and so on... Would the phenolic spacer act as a gasket between the manifold and carbs? And yeah, i'll definitely be going with the aluminum intake... I'll put the rest of the stuff up on ebay most likely sometime later this summer. And as for the carbs, I'll try both sets out, and then if they need rebuilding or give me more fuss than i'd like to deal with, they'll get sent out to Rhys at Island Automotion. Thanks again Mike!

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Kyle - attending Ore. State, while my lil 68 142 (74 b20, m40) AWAITS ME OUTSIDE!!! (check out my cardomain site, kneedsacar)

Agree with everything Mike said. I'm not sure there's room in the factory airbox for even stub stacks -- you really want to have at least an inch of clearance outboard, preferably more. Check with Shayne, I think he experimented with that on his. Maybe with an external air cleaner it's workable...

The manifold->head gasket is common to the exhaust manifold as well. You need to take the whole thing loose -- but sounds like you're going to anyway. You can hacksaw the intake portion off the exhaust and reuse the exhaust half of it.

There are HiF-style factory heat shields -- that's how Volvo mounted them on the later B20s that used HiFs. Can't be too hard to find and a lot less trouble than inventing your own. Yes, you do want to use gaskets on both sides of the phenolic spacer -- same ones you'd use without the spacer, only twice as many.

All the gaskets should be available from the usual sources that carry common old tune-up parts, etc.

As for the "stub stacks"(actually they'll be 2" tall horns, TWM SU air horns) I'll be using them in the plastic assembly, but there will be no filter in the airbox so there should be room for the horns. And then there will be a K&N out in front of the radiator as in your 1800. As for the intake manifold, i'll be using the one i got along with the HIF6s i originally got from iPd 2003(here), which also have heat shields(if the ones i am getting don't already have them). Where do you say i can get gaskets? I didn't see any on the iPd site or the AllOEM site which are the two places i usually shop... Thanks guys!
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Kyle - attending Ore. State, while my lil '68 142 (256k, 74 b20, m40, iPd bars, other misc... =D)AWAITS ME OUTSIDE!!! (and my Cardomain site)