Any way to bypass this or jumper it just so I can drive around to find one at a junkyard? It was causing my brake lights to fail. Thanks.

oops, I see you got it fixed. You can definitely open the old one up and resolder the long pins that run from one circuit board to the other one. There are two circuit boards that are stacked on top of each other and connected with these long pins. That's where the vibration beats them up and the solder joints go bad. I fixed mine by just resoldering.
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me

This is a section I took from something I wrote about "NO BRAKES" The color coding is for an '89. The colors may be the same for your car.


IF YOU DO; then the brake switch is good. Continue on.
Sit in the drivers seat, reach under the dash with you left hand, just above your knee. There is a round, Red Can (Bulb Failure Sensor) with about 12 wires going to it through a bumpy looking black connector. It is held in place by a spring clip, pull it toward the firewall. It will drop down with wires attached.
Look for the blue wire with the red trace (blue/red) going into the connector. It will be next to a yellow/silver and next to that a solid yellow wire. These two yellow wires run back to your brake lights.
Slightly separate the Red Can from the bumpy black connector so the metal pins from the ‘Can’ are starting to show. Again take your light or meter and have one end grounded and with the other end, touch the metallic pin that goes into the connector that is attached to the blue/red wire, step on the brake and you should have 12 volt (or the meter light will light depending on what type of meter you have). This test was to check to see if the blue/red wire was broken.
Now, between the connector and the Red Can (Bulb Failure Sensor) where you have the metal pins exposed a bit, with a paper clip or some other metal object, even a small screwdriver, touch ONLY the blue/red and the yellow/silver one next to it. With you making an electrical connection between the blue/red and the yellow/silver wire, step on the brake. You should see one brake light turn on (the left one I think). If a brake light works then your Bulb Failure Sensor is bad for the brake lights.
Now to fix this you can do two things; 1. Cut the two yellows and the blue from the connector and solder them together or
2. Mark the Red Can with a marker as to which pins are the blue/red trace, yellow and yellow /silver. Look at the bottom of the Red Can I think these pins are numbered “54S, 54L, 54R”. Then totally disconnect the Red Can, take it out of the car and solder a wire to these three pins. You must keep the wire very close to the body of the can so you can plug it back in for the other light sensing. And make very sure that you do not make any connection to the pins next to it.
After you have soldered the wire (should be about the thickness of a small paper clip) to the pins, install it back into the connector and with any luck…..the brakes will work again.
It’s easier then it sounds. When you start to look at it, things will make more sense.
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me

Sorry about that, '86 245. I must of been in a rush. Well, went to closest junkyard, pulled one from a crashed '90, $10.80 out the door, problem solved! Where would I be without Brickboard? I feel sorry for people who own other makes and don't have such a valuable resource.

Good deal. Glad to hear its fixed. Yea the board has pulled me out of some problems.

Did you try taking off the cover and resoldering solder joints? Worked for me.

Cheers,

Gary

"Jumping" on BC's tip to use side-tap connectors, the brake switch wire IN to the failure sensor is Blue/Red (for all from '83 on at least —posting the year would allow a better response}.

The two OUTPUT wires to the brake lights are Yellow (one may be Yellow-Gray).
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

The early ('89-'90) LH 2.4 ECUs (Bosch number ending in 561) sometimes fail to provide a ground for the Fuel Injection (aka Fuel Pump) relay. Until now, the only known fix was to replace the ECU with an updated 951version.

But Colin UK recently posted a fix that allows the "bad" 561 to be safely used by replacing the (White) LH Fuel relay with a K-Jet Fuel relay, which doesn't rely on the ECU for grounding. Instead it gets its ground signal (Ignition pulses) directly from the coil, or the coil wire at the Tach. Thus the K-Jet relay maintains the safety requirement for no fuel pumping unless the ignition is working.

Colin UK's post on 740 relay socket changes can be found here. Today's post relates to the 240 (same relay but different wire colors). Two new wires will be needed. K-Jet relay details are given below*.

Start by disconnecting the Battery Negative cable, then remove White LH relay from its harness socket

The K-jet relay plugs into this same socket, but the wires must be rearranged. Remove the six (6) wires by going in from the front and depressing each terminal's locking tab with something like a narrow-bladed jeweler's screwdriver. The wire and terminal then pulls out from the back.

Now familiarize yourself with your K-jet relay terminal numbers—they should be like this:
30 - 15 - 87b
31b- 31 - 87

Relate those terminal numbers to your (now empty) harness socket and plug the wires back in like this:

30 - gets the RED wire
15 - gets the Yellow-Black wire
87b- the Red-Black wire
31b- run a new wire (R/W if possible) from the Tach R/W terminal, or Coil terminal #1
31 - run a new wire (Black) straight to any convenient ground point (chassis metal)
87 - gets the Yellow-Red wire

There should be 2 wires left over, the Blue-Green (failing ground from the ECU) and Red-Black (common to the one you plugged into 87b). After taping each exposed end carefully, fold the wires back and tape to the harness bundle.

• The 2 new wires will need terminal ends with the locking tab. Try Autozone, Car Quest, NAPA etc., or get any color spare wires from a junker and splice in with insulated crimp connectors (Radio Shack).

• New *K-Jet Relays Green) are #3523639 for $24.50 at FCP Groton, or #1348600 for $46.00 at IDP (maybe better quality?). Older ones will also work— Gray 1 324 022 and Black 1 235 337 (same # in antique aluminum) Check your favorite P & P yard.

It is a "trial version", which has a wiring error (to K-Jet terminal 15).

A corrected version is planned, using the subject line below:

ECU 561 Failure Bypass Fix
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

There might be a way to jumper the terminals or wires that power the brake lights using side tap connectors.

Wiring colors and connections change from year to year, so you need to provide the year and body style of the car.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)