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I found this 1993 940 turbo last july with 28000 actual miles on it. I didn't really want a turbo, but the miles were so low I couldn't resist. I have noticed that it uses oil, but I was hoping it was my imagination, but now reality is setting in. It is using oil (damn) but now, this morning the wife started it and it ran real rough when it first started up, and when she drove away it was smoking!! Say it ain't so!! This just makes me sick! How can an engine with such low miles be an oil burner/user? I have an1987 240 that has never used a drop in 165000. But I had a 1980 240 that never used a drop in 1500 miles until it sat for three years, then it used a little oil between changes. Does sitting/not being driven much cause the valve seals to dryrot and therefore use oil/burn oil? Obviously this car hasn't been driven much either.
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Take off the oil filler cap and take a peek inside the valvecover also, the color of the metal you see in there should be shiny silver if really clean, or a light brown color. If everything is black and there's sludge deposits, then the previous owner didn't change the oil very often, this can easily take a lot of life from a motor, and it's not uncommon for people to severely neglect a car.
The smoke could also be from the car running rich, which would also describe the poor running at startup.
--
My Volvo Page 94 945T 158k, Ford T5 manual trans waiting to be installed. High flowing injectors and a new cam will follow.
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Spooky,
Thanks for the reply. Yes, I changed all of the fluids and checked all of the gaskets, and all of the obvious no-brainer stuff. This engine is as clean as a pin. No leaks, no oil anywhere, except on the metal hoses going to the turbo. No oil on driveway under this car, not a drop. When I say that she drove off, let me clarify. When she started it up, it ran rough, and kind of dieseled, I guess is how to explain it.Then after having her start, I didn't see the smoke until she was out of earshot. The smoke was gray, not a huge plume, but enough to make me go spastic immediately. I called her on her cell, and she turned around and immediately shut it down.
She is the most consciencious woman I have ever known when it comes to NOT driving a car if it overheats, smokes, rattles, bangs, or clangs. She is the one that pointed out to me that the timing belt just might slip over the pulleys easire if I pre-load the tensioner (forest for the trees).I had her start it again, and no smoke at all. I think I remember hearing something about turbo seals possibly causing this. Obviously, oil was in the combustion chamber somehow. But, why is a motor with 32000 using oil, valve seals? Like I said, I have never had a volvo use oil, not a drop (until I let the 1980 sit).
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Dear pittroj,
Good p.m. and hope this finds you well. I hope I didn't offend with the stream of questions, covering mostly obvious things. Glad to learn that you and your other half are as diligent, as the rest of us try to be.
It could be that at some point, the car sat for a long time. The oil in the cylinders got hard, and blocked the oil scraper ring, so that oil gets trapped in the combustion area.
If you're not already running Synthetic oil (e.g., Mobil 1), you might try that. It tends to clean-up crud. There is a product called Auto Rx (available at a website of that or similar name) which is a more powerful solvent. I've never needed to use it.
A possible explanation for the "dieseling" is an exhaust manifold gasket leak. If the gasket is reddish orange, it is the original. Those tended to have a short working life. If the gasket is pale green, it is a newer version, and should be tight.
Hope this helps. Let us know what you find.
Yours faithfully
spook
p.s. I try not to be spooky, as that really upsets folks...
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HI,
I have owned several volvo turbo's over the years, and my experience is that if the car was driven and not allowed to cool the turbo before it was turned off, it could cause the smoking. Though 32k is very soon, a lot of in town driving w/o cool could do it. The oil passages in the turbo are about
6 thousands of an inch so it does not take much burnt oil to cause a problem. You can try to take the rubber hose off the front of the turbo and manually spin the turbo and see how much resistance it has to turning. ***Be very very careful how you treat the spines etc of the turbo, if you bend them, it will never work right again. *** It should be able to spin by twisting the bolt at the center of the shaft sticking out of the metal housing. A good spin shoud give about 2+ free revolutions (from my personal experience) If not it might need to be replaced or rebuilt.
Good luck.
God bless...
Mark
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Dear pittroj,
Good p.m.and may this find you well.
Upon taking charge of this car did you:
(a) drain all working fluids (oil, trans, coolant) and flush these systems?
(b) clean the breather box?
(c) check all gaskets and seals for leaks?
(d) check all turbo hoses for oil damage?
(e) replace all filters (oil, gas, air)?
(f) check - and if need be replace - the radiator and heater hoses?
A car with 2,000 miles/year on it over more than a decade could suffer severe internal corrosion and the accumulation of sludges within:
(a) the fuel system
(b) the heater core/radiator
(c) the engine's internal oil ports
(d) the breather box.
Oil port blockages (total or partial) oil might stop oil from getting to all the needful places, or keep the amount too small to prevent damage.
If the breather box is plugged, high crankcase oil pressure could force oil past gaskets and seals. If the front seals leak, the timing belt will be weakened. It should be inspected, pronto! Equally, the rear main seal could also be displaced.
What color smoke - white, black or blue - came out of the car, when your wife "drove away". Why did she continue to drive a car that was obviously not working properly?
Hope these questions give you some lines of inquiry.
Yours faithfully,
spook
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