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wiper post stripped!! 200


How can one fix a stripped window wiper post? The situation is that we turn on the wipers, and the passenger side wiper works for just a little bit, then starts flapping all out of whack and sync. Short of digging out the whole assembly of the post and all, is there some kind of fix with jams or something that might work?








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wiper post stripped!! 200



Thanks you guys. Come to think of it, I haven't taken it off to check which part may be stripped. Depending on that outcome, the shim idea sounds worth of a try also.








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wiper post stripped!! 200

Typically, devices like this are designed with a lower strength material specified for the cheaper, easier-to-replace part of the assembly. The wiper arm's end that fits on the driving stubs is made of a zinc alloy with low shear strength so, as Ken says, it fails before the steel stub does if the arms are frozen in place, etc. The arms are dirt cheap in the junkyard.

But...I don't believe our 81 and 83 have splines. They seem to employ a tapered fit. Been so long since I had any problem, I can't recall. You set the arms in the position you want and tighten down the nuts. If they come loose I just torque the nuts more and they're OK. Cody's shim fix could work very well if the taper has worn. But I note that older 240's I've seen in the yard have the splined driving stubs. Looks like it depends on your year.
--
Bob (81-244GL B21F, 83-244DL B23F, 94-944 B230FD; plus grocery-getter Dodge minivan, MGB, and numerous old motorcycles)








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Happened to me, too -- probably just the arm 200

Hi. This happened to my '84, and what was actually stripped was the grooves in the wiper arm, rather than the post. It was hard to tell which was at fault, but I took a chance and bought a new arm, and it has worked fine for several years (about 4) now -- I hope it's the case for you, too, as replacing that post seems a formidable job.
At least, it's worth it to give this possibility a chance first!








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Happened to me, too -- probably just the arm 200

When you have a moment, flip up the cap over the retaining nut that hold the windshield wiper arm. Wet the windshield down a bit. Make a mark on the stud that is along the line of the wiper arm, including over the nut (white out is my friend!). Turn the wipers on, leave cap flipped up and watch. Now, granted, the stud for the wiper arm is tiny, but if the arm is slipping around the post, you should be able to see the line you've marked go off from the line of the wiper arm at some point.
I just recently got around to fixing my passenger side wiper pivot on an '83.
The wipers are operated with arms ending in cables that wrap around cam assemblies, operating the wiper pivots. On mine, the cam actually seperated from the wiper pivot shaft. I picked up the whole linkage from the junkyard for not much money, & replaced only the side I needed. For me, the most difficult part was resetting the cable around the cam. Be advised, all pieces can be removed/replaced with the dash in place by removing either the glovebox or gauge assembly as needed.
I liked the comment about the shims, though. Anybody read "Zen & the art of motorcycle maintenance" by Robert Pirsig? :oD








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Happened to me, too -- probably just the arm 200

"Zen and the Art of Volvo Maintenance" LOL (soda can is my friend). Actually, tin cans are handy for exhaust system repairs. It's pretty surprising what you may find handy in a critical moment.








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Happened to me, too -- probably just the arm 200

"Actually, tin cans are handy for exhaust system repairs. It's pretty surprising what you may find handy in a critical moment."

Critical moment, perhaps... but not much longer. I did this fix (used TWO whipped-cream cans, actually) on an old Buick I had. 2.8 V6, not exactly a powerhouse. Enough that my patch only lasted about 8 miles, tho. Ka-bang! Turned a lot of heads on that trip.








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wiper post stripped!! 200

Cut a piece of aluminum from a soda can for use as a shim. You'll want it slightly wider than the splined area, and just long enough to butt the edges together when they're wrapped around the splines. Taper the aluminum slightly over the top of the splines, just to allow the arm to start over the shim. Make sure the arm is lined up correctly, then push it into place and tighten the nut.

This "fix" worked for me on my BMW 2002 for over 15k miles till I sold the car. I don't guarantee anything, but it's worth a shot.
--
1991 245, 61k miles, looking for a 5 speed 92-93 245 cheap.







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