Volvo RWD 444-544 Forum

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Fuel Tank 444-544

While slowly doing the restoration of my PV444 I've come to the part where I work on the fuel tank. (Actually I just got tired of scraping and cleaning and decided to do something else for a while.)

The tank on my 1964 544 parts car looks much better than the 1958 tank so I'm trying to use it. This afternoon I removed the tank and found that the outlet was plugged with black gunk. It took carb cleaner and lots of poking with a drill bit just to open up the brass fitting on the outlet. The outlet is well up the side of the tank so there is a pick-up line of at least several inches inside the tank which is also plugged. My inclination is to use carb cleaner and piano wire to roto-root it open and then keep at it with compressed air, more carb cleaner or whatever I can think of. I see no way to access the inside parts. My parts catalogue lists the tank and attaching parts but no picture of what's inside. None of the listed parts sound like they go inside. Are any of you familiar with what's inside? Any cautions or better ideas than what I've mentioned for opening up that fuel pick-up line?








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    Fuel Tank Sending Unit 444-544

    Thanks to Cam, Christopher and Mike for the input on my previous Fuel Tank post. Using small bright light I was able to see in through hole in the top used for the sender. There is simply a piece of steel tubing going down close to the bottom of the tank. Nothing complicated. Carb cleaner plus 6+ inches of heavy line from a string trimmer chucked into an electric drill cleared the 544 tank pick-up. The pick up in the 444 line was clear. Decided to stay with the 444 tank. Its turned out to be less fouled with old deposits and using it avoids the need to change the venting system.

    The gauge sending unit from the 544 too rusted to be usable. I need 12 volts in the 444 (using a B20 engine) and need to replace the 544 sender. I see that they are over $90 new. Naturally I'm wondering about a less expensive answer. I built an airplane a few years ago and used Stewart Warner sending units for that. I have one left. The mounting holes match up. It was mounted in the side of the airplane but it seems to me that with some careful bending of the wire holding the float it might be made to work. These units cost $23 and the gaskets are $1.25. Has anyone tried something like that or come up with some other alternative?








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      Fuel Tank Sending Unit 444-544

      You can stay with your original gauge and sending unit, just add a 82 ohm resistor in series with the power input lead on the gauge. Works fine.
      Don't give me the credits however, see http://www.intelab.com/swem/Vintage_Volvo_6V_to12V_conversion.htm








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      Fuel Tank Sending Unit 444-544 1953

      Keith: I wonder if the voltage is unimportant? Why don't you use the original 444 unit? I'm almost certain that the fuel sending unit is based on impedance; i.e. that black wire is not powered. I was somewhat stuck for a sending unit in my PV (rusted shut beyond repair). I happened to have a sending unit, from a 12 volt Amazon, and it works relatively well. With the fuel tank size difference, it does tend to drop from 1/2 to reserve faster than when the tank is full. So, the reverse in your PV should work. There's no harm in trying.
      --
      Cam a.k.a. CVOLVO.COM








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        Fuel Tank Sending Unit 444-544 1953

        Either should work. The SW sender is fairly "universal" so it should have adjustments available to set the parameters once it is installed. The critical part would be to ensure full motion (and as linear as possible) of the float.

        Mike!








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          Fuel Tank Sending Unit 444-544 1953

          Thanks to all for the added comments. The 444 sender is so rusty that I doubt that it will ever move again - or give a valid reading if it does. Looks like my next step will be to "bench" test the SW sender (left over from the airplane project) with a 12 Volt battery and the gauges in the 544 and 444.

          Keith








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    Fuel Tank 444-544

    If there are no rubber seals in the tank, try a pint or so of that nasty carb dip (the really awful stuff) in the filler neck. Swish it around for a few minutes then pour it off. The stuff is great at getting any petro-chemical goo off (and will destroy any rubber seals) but will not touch rust. A short extension on the fuel outlet and a little dip poured in it and allowed to sit should eat through the goo in the tube in short order.
    Once the goo is gone rinse several times with mineral spirits (paint thinner... the real stuff, read the label).
    If you want the tank to last forever, get yerself a tank slushing kit. The cleaners in it will get rid of all rust and the coating will resist any attempt to create more by nasty moisture in the tank.
    Or, you could periodically add gas dryer to the tank to run moisture through the engine.

    Mike!








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    Fuel Tank 444-544

    I haven't even gotten the new body yet but when I do in 2-3 weeks, I have been thinking that a fuel cell will work fine and be a little better all the way around. I will be driving it daily so I cannot have it getting blocked like it did in Utica in January 20004 at 9 below zero. Any crud can get attached to more crud and if it's near the pick up point...it can stop a car. Fuel cells can be larger that the 10 gallon size from a 544 (smaller on earlier b-16)and they start clean. $200-300 and you're good to go for many years.

    Christopher Virgilthevolvo version 2.0








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    Fuel Tank 444-544

    Hi Keith: Actually there seem to be many differences between the B16 style of tank and the B18 version. I have 2 parts explosion pictures that I will send you off-line (too lazy to FTP these to my web site). I think the newer tank might fit, but the dimension may be slightly different and the filler neck seems to be different too. Good luck.... Cam
    --
    Cam a.k.a. CVOLVO.COM







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