|
|
|
after my timing belt change, and all accessory belts change, and cap and rotor change, and motor mounts...
I am now experiencing an intermittent loss of acceleration ... once at 50 mph, once at 20 mph, once right off first start, it will idle fine but just won't accelerate...
when I pull over, stop the engine, then restart then everything is fine...
I'm suspicious of the cap and rotor because it was hard to get that cap back on and the metal cap thingy under the rotor doesn't stay in a set place, the hall sensor connector is fairly loose as well...
could that distributor cause intermittent acceleration problems?
thanks,
jack
--
Bad Blue, '86 245, 266,000 mi., waiting for T-belt - Columbus, Ohio
|
|
-
|
|
|
thanks to all posting here.
I figured out that I had not lined up the ridge of my distributor cap with the slot of the distributor rim ... therefore not having a good seal between cap and distributor.
now the cap locks into place correctly and easily! so far car running great.
I hope this is same for you zcar4me but something tells me it's something different... if your cap is cracked it could cause the same results. try replacing the cap with a known good one and see if that solves it.
jack
--
'86 245, 266,000 mi., '87 760T 140,000 mi. - Columbus, Ohio
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be Jim L
on
Thu Jun 10 03:49 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
|
|
Absolutely the distributor can cause this - probably the hall sensor connection. The cap and rotor and "metal cap thingy" (I assume the dust cover) should all go together easily and stay where they are put. Use a couple of dabs of silicone caulk on the edges of the "metal cap thingy" to hold it in place. If the hall sensor or wheel gets contaminated with oil or dust you will need to clean it.
|
|
-
|
|
|
is the dust cap (under the rotor) keyed somehow so it sits in a certain fixed place at all times?... if so mine has lost its moorings.
I'll take a look to see if there's contamination in there and clean it with some electrical spray
thanks for the confirmation hopefully once I get the distributor and hall sensor together right I will lose my problem.
--
Bad Blue, '86 245, 266,000 mi., waiting for T-belt - Columbus, Ohio
|
|
-
|
|
|
My problem spawned after replacing the intake manifold / throttle body gaskets. It is very intermittent when it does happen, and mine almost always is from a dead stop. I finally carried my timing light once, and pulled over when it happened. I found that my timing would not advance, no matter what position the throttle was at, and if I floored it, it would backfire through the intake. However, when I turn the key off and restart it, all is well.
Nevertheless its a very dangerous problem, and has almost got me into an accident. I was about to pull left into my neighborhood while waiting for traffic to clear in the median. I waited till it was clear, pushed the gas...and NOTHING! I could have walked faster. I got through just in time.
Since then I have replaced EVERY sensor. What made the most difference was a used ignition control unit. It still happens, but less than it used to. I'm planning on buying a rebuilt unit...just need the money. I also want to take apart the main harness, and if its okay, resheathe it like I did the ignition harness.
The other problems I'm having is that the motor barely raises idle when its cold. I've already taken the IAC out and cleaned it thoroughly, but it made little difference. I've also checked the throttle body linkage as well as the TPS. It also seems to run rich as well when its cold, but this might be because of the low idle.
Anyway, sorry for making this so long, but I hoped I helped a little.
Jack H
ps. things I've done so far (last 6 months):
Removed air box thermostat and tube from exhaust
Replaced air filter
Rebuilt AMM
Checked tube from AMM to TB
New TPS
New coolant temp sensor
New knock sensor
Cleaned ALL connections (used di-electric grease)
Replaced vacuum lines
Cleaned flame trap
Took apart ignition harness (rerouted above engine)
Replaced ignition control unit with used
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be Jim L
on
Thu Jun 10 03:41 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
|
|
Did you replace your O2 sensor?
|
|
-
|
|
|
maybe our problem is answered by the cause of no timing advance?
in your case I'd be suspicious of your new gasket (since that what you were working on) have you sprayed carb cleaner around the intake manifold and Throttle body to see if the engine idle changes? If so there is a leak in your gasket (or something else).
I'd also be suspicious of rebuilt AMM's ... haven't heard good things about them.
jack
--
Bad Blue, '86 245, 266,000 mi., waiting for T-belt - Columbus, Ohio
|
|
-
|
|
|
Try to check your timing the next time that your car acts up, and we'll see if we're having the same problem.
I don't think I have any problems with the intake manifold gasket. Or any vacuum leak for that matter. However, I haven't induced a vacuum leak to see if it will happen.
I've heard about adjusting the AMM. But have yet to find the proper procedure. It may be the cause of my running rich problem.
I'm leaving for Seattle tomorrow for a week, so I'll have to mess with it more when I get back. See what you can do about your car and report back! ;)
Jack H
|
|
-
|
|
|
Don't have a light but I can borrow one from a friend...
the problem hasn't shown up past few days but I'll see if the hall sensor/distributor cap assembly is the problem and let you know...
I'd try the O2 sensor as suggested here ... I had a bad O2 cause a loss of acceleration intermittently but it was always at the same time about a minute into driving, would last 30 sec. then everything was fine.
if the problem was regular enough you could try disconnecting the O2 and see if it didn't have a problem... before you replaced it... you could use a meter to check the O2 sensors function as well.
let me know if you want to try that and I can help you if need be.
jack
--
'86 245, 266,000 mi., '87 760T 140,000 mi. - Columbus, Ohio
|
|
|
|
|
