Hey Ya'all
I first have to say that I really apprediate the people who made this happen, and the good folks that give their advice so wisely.Thanks Glenn.I have 2 issues with my 69 P-1800 and it is becomming more the nightmare than my x-wives. Bear in mind that the 69 was a "cross-over year)
1) Brakes: I replaced the rear 2 lines from the box on the rear end- dual system, replaced both rear cylinders and shoes. Rebuilt both front calipers and got new pads and discs. Went the "old way" to bleed brakes and started with rear far side. Got spit (air & rusty fluid) one time only. Pump, hold, nothing tied other side rear, same thing. Went to book- DAH- said to take out switch at junction box before bleeding and make sure the pistons (like 2 fingers) are together. Took out switch, checked (W/mirror-book shows right side up,mine ain't,togeterness(sp) of parts-OK. Tried again, no joy. Have good pedal.no squish nor bleed-down, have rear and front brakes stop when pedal applied, bled front and they are good.
Am I missing something here?
2( As you may recall, Crossover year---
Stromberg carbs. Replaced diapragms, oiled and cleaned carbs, new points, plugs, rotor, cap, battery, adjusted valves. Started up up, ran FINE!, turn key-cool. 2 days later, start up to check timing, undo vaccuun line snd try to get into specs, conks out. Can't restart. Re-checked everything- seems OK, so what am I missing? Your ideas are appreciated.
2 yr. member claiming to be me. Carl Thankx

Hi Folks.
It turns out that there was to much gas going to the plugs. Also linkage was uneven causing one carb to open before the other. I had adjusted using the brass screws on side of carbs. After drying plugs, adjusting linkage and unturning both brass screws 1/2 turn she started, and re-started again when warm
As to the brakes, got 2 different answers. I am going to check both rear lines 1st as they are the only ones I replaced and neither rear brake will bleed. If ok, I will then disconnect at block and rear cylinder and blow out lines. Then will check block where switch goes and clean.
Going out of town for 2 weeks so it will have to wait. I will report any success. Thank you for the advice. Carl

Same problems as on my 69 164 years back.

Brake lines have TINY inside diameter and thick rubber which swells shut
and makes the line act like a check valve. Takes braking pressure to open
the line up so as soon as bleeding relieves ANY pressure it acts like it
is closed. IPD and others sell better lines. OEM lines WILL swell shut
eventually and do this. It cost me lots of brake pads and a couple toasted
disks to learn this.

Bleeding by pumping is a pain and vacuum is little better. Once you get the
lines where they are always open, use a pressure bleeder. 25 psi is enough
so you could do it using your spare tire if you have the appropriate hose.
I improvised a bleeder with an old master cylinder lid with a hole in it
and an old brake hose with nuts and washers to seal against the hole in the
lid. Don't go over about 35 psi or you may overpressure your reservoir.
Also remember this can use a lot of fluid so keep track of your reservoir
level and don't let it get too low or you'll have to start over!

After suffering with Stromberg carbs for about 10 years on my 164 I changed
to SUs, first HS6s and later HIF6s. MUCH better and much lower maintenance.
If the Strombergs are right, they are fine but if not you are hard put to
make them right.
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Oklahoma, Central US

1) The inability to get fluid through the lines means something is blocked up. The only way to find it is to go through the system until you isolate the problem. I would start at the block and disconnect a line to see if you are getting flow there. May have to unhook both lines to keep it from getting off balance again. I suspect either the failure switch is still not set right or some crud flowed through the lines and blocked them up. Either way, just take it a segment at a time and you should be able to pin down the problem.

2) The first thing I would check is to be sure that in disconnecting the vacuum you didn't accidently knock a wire loose. I had a problem in which about every 4th time I turned right the engine would die. Finally figured out the knuckle in the steering column was catching the wire from the coil to the points and just moving it enough to lose contact momentarily. In pulling off the vacuum you might also have flooded things and fouled the plugs, but that shouldn't have been a sudden thing. Someone with better knowledge of the carbs might have better suggestions. Please let us know what you find out.